Ok checked my chlorine around noon today it was 6.1 ppm with cya of 48 and ph 7.9. Added a little muratic acid to bring ph down. Checked chlorine again about sundown and it was down to 2 ppm. If I use pool math it has me add almost a gallon of chlorine to get backup to correct level. This seems to be a pattern adding almost a gallon per day. It is really hot her in the 90’s and my pool gets full sun most of the day. By my calculations gonna cost me around 190 a month in just chlorine. Am I doing something wrong or is this normal chlorine usage here in summer. I am adding chlorine in evenings to try to get best usage. Any ideas?
Chlorine use in south texas
- Thread starter Tckwilson
- Start date
- Apr 10, 2018
- 5,659
- Pool Size
- 18375
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- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45
A loss of 4.1 is possible but seems high. How did you get a FC result of 6.1 ppm and a CYA result of 48?
Last edited:
- Jan 7, 2012
- 1,619
- Pool Size
- 21000
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- Chlorine
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
How are you testing?
In our climate, that would be about right for peak summer chlorine demand. I typically see FC daily demand of 4-5.
Get a SWCG.
It's by far the cheapest, easiest, and most convenient way to chlorinate, especially for our climate.
There is no benefit with the time of day. If your FC is above minimum, you're sanitary. Having reserve chlorine above being sanitary doesn't 'work harder overnight' or whatevs.
That said, everybody had their time they prefer and there's no harm in it either.
I'd be more concerned with slicing it so close to minimum, especially with high, possibly unpredictable loss. Minimum for CYA of 50 is 4 FC. You're on the bullet train to Swampville if you continue rolling to 2. If you're losing 6ppm per day, you dose to 11 to remain above 4 at the low point.
I got it tested at Leslie’s but the cya test is pretty close to what I get with my Taylor kit. I would assume the chlorine is too
The noon test was done by Leslie’s. The sundown test done by me with my Taylor kit. I would love to change to saltwater but was advised not to because of spillover spa and returns running over rocks in back will attach a pic
Last edited by a moderator:
- Jul 17, 2019
- 3,789
- Pool Size
- 13000
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- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No reason to step foot in Leslies ever again if you have the right test kit. Keep in mind their job is to sell you stuff, not provide accurate testing.
Also, who told you not change to saltwater? My guess is it was a pool builder, pool store, or a friend. Lots of mis-information out there on saltwater pools. If you are seriously considering it, I would test the salt level in your pool. Unless you have drained recently, I'm guessing your salt levels are not too far away from being in range of a salt pool anyway (~3,000 ppm).
jimbethesda
Gold Supporter
- Jul 2, 2018
- 660
- Pool Size
- 20000
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- Chlorine
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- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
To add to the post above, buy a Taylor k-1766 salt test kit. $32 at Amazon. You'll see that your pool is already a "saltwater" pool, you're just not using the salt for anything. The difference is your salt increases everything you add liquid chlorine, pools with SWCG have a steady level.
Pool guy told me not to convert to salt because of rocks. I am going to look into it. How do you size SWCG?
jimbethesda
Gold Supporter
- Jul 2, 2018
- 660
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
A normal (sanitary) pool in our area likely loses about 4-4.5 ppm per day in peak summer. Currently my pool is losing about 3.5 ppm per day.
SWG is the most cost effective and by far the most convenient method to chlorinate. I would never consider owning a pool without a SWG.
SWG is the most cost effective and by far the most convenient method to chlorinate. I would never consider owning a pool without a SWG.