Chlorine lock why!!!

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Texas Splash said:
With CYA in the water and the FC starting to hold after the initial battle, we'll be curious to know later today how your experience is going. Hopefully the FC will begin to hold better for you and the normal SLAM Process can continue.
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Just put 2 socks with about a little over 5lbs total of CYA. With the sock method about 90% dissolves in less than 24 hours. Conditions rapidly improving from rapidly deteriorating a few days ago. Can see the drain in the deep end now and the FC only dropped from 10.4PPM to 9PPM since about 10:30 AM. Mostly cloudy day really helped a lot. 0 algae in the pool from visually looking plus the pressure in the filter barely rose since I started the slam. An algae bloom would've required a few back washes of the filter. Filter pressure starts at 8LBS after backwashing. I backwash at 12LBS.
 
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Texas Splash said:
Very good. For me, after the socks have soaked for about 30 min, I start squeezing then and get all the stabilizer mushy stuff out in about 10 min.
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it's already about 95% dissolved. Wow what a difference 24 hours makes! Water has that nice blue tint back to it.
Went out in the rain to test
FC 11.6PPM no CC
PH 7.0
TA 90
CH I didn't recheck was 240PPM before this mess started will recheck tomorrow morning with the CYA
CYA will check in the morning
 
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Test from this morning
FC 10 PPM dropped 1.6 PPM from last test at 8:48 last night
PH still 7.0 PPM
TA still 90 PPM
CYA 35 PPM
CH 260 PPM this actually went up a bit from last test of 240 PPM

I will bump the FC back to 12 for one more day. Does aeration really raise PH? Used 20 mule team borax to raise PH
last time without effecting TA much. Was reading about borates that 20 mule team adds to the water. Should I be concerned.
 
VinnyFindley said:
Does aeration really raise PH?
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Yes
VinnyFindley said:
Used 20 mule team borax to raise PH
last time without effecting TA much. Was reading about borates that 20 mule team adds to the water. Should I be concerned.
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No, any pH in the 7s is fine. The pH test is invalid when FC>10. The only test for now you need to worry about is FC. When you pass OCLT, do the CC test on that sample...

Getting there!!!
 
Hi Vinny,

3 things:

1. Use a 10ml water sample for your FC testing. Use a rounded scoop of the DPD powder, and count each drop as 0.5ppm. This will use you kit up 2.5x slower. No need to be more accurate than 0.5.

2. Your CYA is 40. We always round up when reading that test, so your SLAM target is now 16ppm.

3. Don't chase pH or TA. Anything in the 7s is fine. With your TA as high as it is (can you double check you're using the right sample size for that? I'm surprised Cranston water is so high...), your pH will rise naturally. When it gets to 8, lower it with muriatic acid back to 7.2 and repeat until stable.
 
PoolStored said:
Yes

No, any pH in the 7s is fine. The pH test is invalid when FC>10. The only test for now you need to worry about is FC. When you pass OCLT, do the CC test on that sample...

Getting there!!!
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OK. Not like the pool was going to get use any way with this ammonia problem. Weather up here in New England has not been swimmer friendly so far this year. We were already swimming in near 80 degree water at this time last year. Many nights in the low 40'S and highs in the low 60'S
 
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Thank you everyone for the help!!! Much appreciated. I did a search for a forum like this after countless bad experiences with pool stores long ago and spending a whole lot more money than I do now with maintaining my pool. If I had a dime for every time I heard the phrase I've been doing this for years from either the pool store people or some private pool business I could be retired right now :LOL:
 
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MITBeta said:
Hi Vinny,

3 things:

1. Use a 10ml water sample for your FC testing. Use a rounded scoop of the DPD powder, and count each drop as 0.5ppm. This will use you kit up 2.5x slower. No need to be more accurate than 0.5.

2. Your CYA is 40. We always round up when reading that test, so your SLAM target is now 16ppm.

3. Don't chase pH or TA. Anything in the 7s is fine. With your TA as high as it is (can you double check you're using the right sample size for that? I'm surprised Cranston water is so high...), your pH will rise naturally. When it gets to 8, lower it with muriatic acid back to 7.2 and repeat until stable.
Click to expand...
Ok. I will start using the 10ml sample. PH looking red has been burnt into my brain so seeing it at the low end and looking more orange had me wanting to see it at least on the low end of red. I'm using the 25ml sample for the TA. Before this mess started PH was 7.6PPM and TA 100PPM. I shot for the mean with TA. PH and TA one balanced pretty much stay the whole summer with very little change for me unless there's a lot of water added by me or rain! I work in Attleboro of Frank Mossberg drive!
 
Excited Seinfeld GIF
 
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