Okay, but the POUNDS of SHOCK from your first post - what was that. The liquid you are using now (correct) would not be measure in pounds.
I don't think you read 10x the CC in any of the instructions on how to shock from this site.
From the links above:
To shock, it is a huge help to have a FAS-DPD chlorine test. You also need to know your current CYA level, and then look up the corresponding FC shock level. You can use the The Chlorine/CYA Chart at Pool School to find the correct FC shock level for your CYA level. It is best to use bleach or liquid chlorine when shocking.
Shocking:
Measure the FC level
Add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (or a little higher)
Repeat steps 1 and 2 as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day, until:
CC is 0.5 or lower;
An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
And the water is clear.
Brush the entire pool once a day
Backwash or clean the filter as needed
Depending on what kind of filter you have, it can take the filter a week or more to completely clear up the water, even after all of the algae is dead. DE filters are usually much faster than that, but require frequent attention when cleaning up algae. Sand filters are the slowest, and cartridge filters are somewhere in-between.
While shocking, the appearance of the water should improve each day, though perhaps only by a little. If you fail to see any improvement you might have a problem with your filter, or have a higher CYA level than you think, or bad circulation, or have some other more complex problem.
The goal of shocking is to add enough chlorine to oxidize all of the algae, combined chlorine, bacteria, viruses, ammonia, and other organic contaminates. Oxidization breaks down the organic molecules into smaller parts which are harmless. When shocking, you need to keep adding chlorine until the breakdown process is complete.
Higher FC levels will oxidize contaminates more quickly, but levels that are too high can cause damage to the pool or the pool equipment. Recommended shock levels are designed to break down contaminates reasonably quickly while posing minimal risk to the pool. It is impossible to know in advance just how much chlorine will be required to shock the pool. Instead, chlorine is added to maintain shock level until testing shows that the process is complete."
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If your CYA is truly on 20, your shock level is 10 and is what you put in the calculator. If you are wrong about this level, and it is actually more like 60, your shock level is 24. You get these numbers from the chlorine/CYA chart linked above
To go from 4 (what you reported as your current FC) to 10 (from the CYA/chlorine chart) would take around 2 gallons of 10%. (269 oz)
If your CYA is actually 60 and we need to raise to 24, it would take 7 gallons of 10%. (896 oz)