Chlorine (free) issues with Taylor K-2006 vs Taylor 9265 magnetic stirrer

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VAlegacy

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Mar 15, 2018
14
Toano, VA
I started using the magnetic stirrer this year and just assumed everything was fine. I still use my Taylor reagents etc, just with the auto stirrer now. I assumed I was doing everything right.
In the past I have cheated a bit with chlorine especially. If I knew I was generally around 4 ppm chlorine I would just go ahead and put 15 drops chlorine reagent then drop by drop after till I was there.
With the magnetic stirrer there is no point because I dont have to stop, put my chemicals down stir.....
So earlier using the magnetic stirrer I got 6 ppm fc, and wanted to verify with manual stirring; I got 4 ppm. 30 drops needed for manual stir vs 20 drops needed for magnetic.
I tried different things to figure out what I was doing wrong. I ensured both 25 ml mark are the same. I then put 20 drops in for me manually stirring, noticed it wasn't clear, and dumped it in the magnetic stirrer. It still took 10 more drops.
Finally, I did drop by drop with me stirring manually, until I got to 20, and it still wasn't clear. It still took 10 more drops me stirring manually.

I am lost. Anyone offer any help? I know when I test alkalinity, I rub a wet paper towel with pool water in-between each drop to "prime" reagent. Could this be the issue? With me dropping it in so fast in the magnetic stirrer, I never release the chlorine reagent bottle, and thus dont introduce any air. I find that hard to believe though, because I did try the 20 drops, then transferred to magnetic, and still not clear.

Could it have something to do with the pill?
 
The speedstir does a really good job of mixing efficiently. Often times we comment to users how it can impact the CH test as well. Something you might try is just go with the 10 ml water sample. It's not as pinpoint accurate as the 25 ml sample, but it's the standard. Taylor instructions show the 25 ml and dividing by .2, but it's just too critical for daily FC checks and can waste some reagent. So next time try the 10 ml water sample with just ONE generous scoop of powder. Count drops until clear and divide in half. So 20 drops equals an FC of 10. That might also close the gap on your manual versus speedstir scenario. :)
 
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Thanks Tex. I used 10 ml last year but i I've been trying to dial in swg this year.
I figured the stirrer had to be correct.
I will take your advice and stick with 10 ml magnetic.
Good thing we didn't get sick last year under chlorinating!
 
azpooldude said:
Can the Taylor Speedstir 9265 be used with the tubes in the K-2006C test kit? Just want to be sure before I order it.
Click to expand...
It comes with its own tube marked in increments up to 25ml. You use it for testing chlorine, alkalinity, and calcium hardness. You will continue to use the test block that came with your kit for pH testing and CYA testing.

This is what the tube looks like if you are interested, don't buy it one will come with a speedstir for you. Amazon.com : Taylor Sample Tube 10-25ml 9198 : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor
 
You should be trying to do the test in under 1 minute. You add the R-0870 powder let it mix for a second or two and then immediately begin titrating with the R-0871 reagent. You should be dispensing drops at a rate of about 1 sec per drop with the aim to be that all drops are of maximum volume before falling of the tip of the fitment. As soon as the solution goes from pink to clear (cloudy), then the titration is done. You then immediately add 5 drops of the R-0003 reagent and titrate again.

These tests are designed with a very specific protocol in mind due to the chemistry involved. If you “cheat” here and there with the procedure, then you shouldn’t expect the results to be accurate or repeatable. Droplet size, drop rate, test volume accuracy, order of operations, cleanliness of hardware all matter if you want to get accurate and repeatable results.
 
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