Chlorinator cleaning - need suggestions

Hey all - I have a Rainbow 320 that's been in service for 11 years and required zero maintenance until this year. Earlier in the summer, I noticed that it wasn't consuming the 3" tabs as fast as it has in the past... coincidentally, I was fighting a water quality issue (some slight yellow/green growth on the walls of the pool, which was easily brushed off, consistent with low chlorine residual). We had some really hot days here in the Houston area in July, so it wasn't a complete surprise to be fighting low chlorine, but the fact that I wasn't needing to refill the feeder as much as I had in the past was puzzling. I shock the pool weekly, so it never got too green before I finally put 2 and 2 together and realized I needed to put the tabs in the skimmer baskets temporarily and address the feeder issue.

I've disassembled it and found that the screen at the bottom was nearly completely plugged with a hard residue which has also deposited on the walls of the Rainbow. I removed the screen and tried various methods to clean but the only thing that worked was manual scrubbing with a stiff brush. The same residue had formed a thin layer around the entire inside surface of the cylinder that holds the tabs. Some of it flaked off during my trial and error cleaning, and the flakes then clogged the check valve. The surface of the feeder that's exposed where the flakes have come off is smooth and looks like the original plastic (i.e. not oxidized).

I've tried soaking it for 24 hours in a very strong muriatic acid mixture, but the residue seems indifferent to the acid. I would rather not use a wire brush on the feeder because I feel like scratches will just give the deposits a spot to form faster. I've read that this may be the binder used in forming the 3" tabs, so just wondered if anyone on here knows a good method for chemically cleaning it. I've read several posts here on TFP and realize that chlorinators aren't as popular with the locals, but I have it and don't want advice to switch to bleach. Just comment if you're familiar with this residue and have had success in cleaning it.

Thanks in advance!
 
Hey all - I have a Rainbow 320 that's been in service for 11 years and required zero maintenance until this year. Earlier in the summer, I noticed that it wasn't consuming the 3" tabs as fast as it has in the past... coincidentally, I was fighting a water quality issue (some slight yellow/green growth on the walls of the pool, which was easily brushed off, consistent with low chlorine residual). We had some really hot days here in the Houston area in July, so it wasn't a complete surprise to be fighting low chlorine, but the fact that I wasn't needing to refill the feeder as much as I had in the past was puzzling. I shock the pool weekly, so it never got too green before I finally put 2 and 2 together and realized I needed to put the tabs in the skimmer baskets temporarily and address the feeder issue.

I've disassembled it and found that the screen at the bottom was nearly completely plugged with a hard residue which has also deposited on the walls of the Rainbow. I removed the screen and tried various methods to clean but the only thing that worked was manual scrubbing with a stiff brush. The same residue had formed a thin layer around the entire inside surface of the cylinder that holds the tabs. Some of it flaked off during my trial and error cleaning, and the flakes then clogged the check valve. The surface of the feeder that's exposed where the flakes have come off is smooth and looks like the original plastic (i.e. not oxidized).

I've tried soaking it for 24 hours in a very strong muriatic acid mixture, but the residue seems indifferent to the acid. I would rather not use a wire brush on the feeder because I feel like scratches will just give the deposits a spot to form faster. I've read that this may be the binder used in forming the 3" tabs, so just wondered if anyone on here knows a good method for chemically cleaning it. I've read several posts here on TFP and realize that chlorinators aren't as popular with the locals, but I have it and don't want advice to switch to bleach. Just comment if you're familiar with this residue and have had success in cleaning it.

Thanks in advance!
I won't give you advice on switching to the TFP method since you've already declined it, but just thought I'd throw out, for what it's worth, if you're shocking weekly and using tabs, what is your CYA like, maybe thats contributory to your challenges of low CL? I mean the clogged screen certainly sounds like an issue, not saying it isn't. Just maybe another puzzle piece to consider.
 
I ended up taking the Rainbow to the carwash and used high-pressure water to blast most of the scale off the inside of the feeder for a couple bucks. The entire surface was covered with that yellow-brown stuff. Worked good enough for me... may not get another 11 years out of it, but I reinstalled it and should meet my needs. Still curious if anyone here has a more precise procedure for cleaning it... I tested it in a variety of solvents (acid, paint thinner, plain hot water) but nothing seemed to soften it.

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I just took apart my Rainbow 320 yesterday because I suspected it was leaking chlorine/CYA when I had it shut off.
I changed the metering valve and the check valve.
I had upgraded the tube to the yellow transparent tube a couple of years ago and I noticed I could no longer see the pucks inside due to this same coating that you have. Like yourself, the first thing I tried was muriatic acid. No reaction whatsoever. So I concluded it is not any type of alkaline/calcium scale. I then tried dish soap and a pink cooktop scotchbrite pad and was able to remove only some of the coating mechanically. Iso alcohol also did nothing. Whatever scale this is, it is a mystery and I hope the chemistry guys can chime in. Is it possibly residue from CYA ?
 
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