Chemistry issue

Lfowler52

Member
May 15, 2024
7
Virginia
I have a simple blue pool above ground. 10k gallon. Got the test kit. Pool opened 10 days ago. I have been adding shock and stabilizer, low levels of chlorine. Had tested at pool store yesterday. They gave me liquid chlorine and said 1/3 gallon should do it. Also added some pellets for calcium earlier in the day as water test recommended. I tested this morning...virtually no chlorine after 1/3 gallon. So I added another 1/3 this morning. Left pump on. Tested water approximately 12 hours. No chlorine. What's happening to it? I cannot keep chlorine in the pool. Is it the copper ion simple blue doing this? I am discouraged to say the least.
 
Welcome to TFP.

You can't trust pool store tests. Their objective is to sell you questionable chemical potions. And please keep copper out of your pool.

Please do your own testing with one of our recommended test kits. They're generally not available in stores, you'll have to order one.

Post a full set of results from the kit you have and we'll go from there. See links below.

Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
 
Hey L and Welcome !!

have a simple blue pool above ground
If it's simple blue pool manager chemicals, they're a cure all that falls far short of their goal. In fact, you end up with algae instead. As you likely have now. Get yourself a real test kit posted above if you don't have one already. Then SLAM Process with it.


Also, besides the alage issues, cease simple blue immediately from the copper it adds. It's only a matter of time until it stains your pool and swimmers. Copper is a terrible thing to add to pools. Avoid it, or anyone who says to use it.
 
In the short term, unplug it from the controller and shut off power to the controller. If it's an older cell its depleted anyway.
 
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1) algae is consuming it quickly
2) with low CYA the sun is consuming it quickly
3) both because 2 let 1 happen.

What is your CYA level ?
 

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Ok so that rounds up to 50. Holding CYA rules out ammonia, and excessive UV loss from low CYA.

It's SLAM time. (Blue link in post 3)
 
Could you post a complete set of test results? Which test kit are you using?
1000004329.jpg
Ok so that rounds up to 50. Holding CYA rules out ammonia, and excessive UV loss from low CYA.

It's SLAM time.

Ok so that rounds up to 50. Holding CYA rules out ammonia, and excessive UV loss from low CYA.

It's SLAM time. (Blue link in post 3)
Reading that doesn't help me understand how much more chlorine to put it. I'm not good with math. I don't understand anything about this.
 
Reading that doesn't help me understand how much more chlorine to put in
Download PoolMath or use the old poolmath web page link towards the bottom of any forum page.

1 gallon of 10% chlorine is 10ppm for you which makes dosing simple for eyeballing the pour. 1/3 jug is 3 ppm, 1/2 jug is 5ppm, etc.
Holy Crud. I'm doomed
We meet MANY overwhelmed newbs each year. Many of them have swamps on top of the inexperience. Either way, we hold their hand and make pool pros out of them.

Everybody says 'oh I'm the worst student you've ever had'. None of them are, and all learn very quickly.

We got you. Read the slam article. Take a min to process it. Then read it again. And again. Each time some more sticks. Or raises a question. We'll happily answer any questions.
 
If you are unsure of how to perform the test, here is a link to the FAS-DPD chlorine test.
It is possible your FC is 0 and the test will not turn pink if that is the case. If you do see a flash of pink when you add the powder but it doesn't last then your chlorine may be higher than you thought and you will want to add another scoop of powder. If you test for CC do not add any more powder, even if the pink does not return after adding R0871 drops.