Changes to plumbing above ground pool - thoughts/guidance would be welcomed!

[ccfc1986]

I am new around here - and all the fine people of TFP have really helped my understanding of pool chemistry and got my pool in swimming shape (new pool owner this year).

I believe there is a need to replace my single speed pump and replace for a dual or VSP? With this being the case (at least to my understanding for energy efficiency guidelines etc) I am looking to replace the pump you see below. This pump currently is a horizontal output into the filter. Most of the dual or VS pumps have vertical. I find it hard to think I can easily plumb for this with the current pad in use. What are you guys thoughts? I say this because it looks to be like 2/3 90's to get where i need to be within less than 8" of space.

Another reason to replace the pump is that its frankly - NOISY! My neighbors have an above ground pool also - and their pump runs 24/7 and is lovely and quiet. I cautiously turn mine on to get the whole pool circulated once a day - trying to avoid times when they are on their deck or their yard (yes, it really is that loud - think of a very large AC unit). If i can reduce the volume (i can use it more and get a cleaner pool while also saving some money!).

As for a new pump, any suggestions? The current version of everything i have should be in my signature.

The second picture - is after the filter and prior to the heater. I have no way to bypass the heater. Should i install a shut off valve here with a bypass? I can imagine a time if the heater has an issue - i basically can't use the pool... thoughts? What is best practice here?

 

[cowboycasey]

Looks like you have plenty of room, grab another 24 inch block from lowes and move your filter away from your pump forwards or backwards and then do new hard pipe using a bypass for your heater... I do not think a V green can replace your motor but I would still call inyo and ask... If it can not there is another VS option.. Right now everything is so expensive because of the freeze...

Variable Speed Pool Pump Motors - INYOPools.com

Replace your outdated pool pump motor with a variable speed motor which can save you up to 80% on your operational costs - INYOpools.com

www.inyopools.com

Variable Speed Pool Pumps | Inyo Pools - INYOPools.com

Upgrade to a variable speed pool pump for energy savings and optimal performance. Explore our selection of high-quality variable speed pumps designed to efficiently circulate water, reduce energy consumption, and lower operating costs. Shop now and enjoy a quieter, more eco-friendly pool...

www.inyopools.com

you could also ask if there is a 2 speed motor that can replace your motor now... run it on low 90% of the time and works almost the same as a VS pump

Someone with your pump asked the exact same thing on Inyo...

Above ground pool pump

I have a pump with labels Hayward SW15851X20TL and AO Smith Century 1081 SP1520Z1ESC.Part number is 7-193554-01. It is labeled as 2HP SF=SPL, 115VR48Y frame. This pump started making a ton of noise this season. It’s been running for over a month, but the noise has me concerned that there is...

www.inyopools.com

You can replace your pump with Hayward model SP15932S. This is a 1.5HP 115v 2-speed pump. The pump comes with a standard 3-prong plug but you can swap it out with your existing twist lock plug

2 speed 1.5 hp brand new pump and motor for 400 dollars Hayward PowerFlo Matrix Pump 1.5 HP Dual Speed - SP15932S - W3SP15932S - INYOPools.com

 

[ccfc1986]

@cowboycasey - thanks for your reply!

The 'pad' i am currently sitting on is some concrete bricks - and the filter and pump are connected to a plastic pad. I cannot move the filter/pump apart from one another... that I can tell. As i would then be unsure how to secure the pump/filter. I know that seems like a basic question - but this is my first rodeo with this!

As for the replacement pump - this might be perfect for my needs. I didn't even realize i may be able to replace the motor part potentially. Now to look into those options. However, the pump you linked might very well just be what i go with!

What sort of valve should be installed after the filter and before the heater if any? What about between the heater and the inlet to the pool? Currently I have to remove the eye socket inlet and plug this - is there a better/preferred method?

Edit: I was hoping i could find a pump with a timer of sorts - most of the 2 speed pumps don't have that i can see. I assume the VSP are meant to go with more modern/complex systems. As you can tell - mine is....basic! My two goals are: #1 noise reduction and #2 save money/energy (with a wish to run the pump more frequently - and ideally when the pool is in use for heat...right now, it is loud enough a conversation in the pool while the pump is on is a little hard, let alone someone outside the pool area (on the grass in the yard, etc).

Edit 2: I found this: https://www.grainger.com/product/DIVERSITECH-The-Black-Pad-3HAE4 - however, i would be concerned about movement of the filter - currently that resides in a grove in my current plastic base. Looks like it was designed for it by the looks of it. Maybe i just put my current base on top of this one and screw them together?

 

[cowboycasey]

after the filter is a Jandy neverlube 3 way valve and a Jandy check valve after the heater...

Jandy

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ccfc1986]

These links are brilliant. The article answers everything i need to know on what i should be doing here. Perfect!

 

[ccfc1986]

In the diagram on this page - does it make sense to have the check back in the main line/return to the pool? This way you will NEVER get water flowing from the inlet into either the filter OR the heater (say if you turn off the system to wash the cartridge filter in my case?).

Right now i just plug the inlet valve at the pool wall... but was just curious if that is a valid option as well?

Heater Bypass - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[ccfc1986]

Sorry to bring this thread back to life... but my pump has been going for about 3 days straight and starting to sound like its about to blow up. It changed in volume significantly this morning and i have since turned it off. I was running the pump 24/7 for the last few days during a SLAM... so i need to get something going ASAP i think.

I am looking to get this replacement pump:

Hayward 1.5 Power-Flo Matrix Pump, Above Ground Pool, Dual Speed, 115 Volt - W3SP15932S - INYOPools.com

PowerFlo Matrix Pump 1.5 HP Dual Speed - SP15932S

www.inyopools.com

This 3 way valve:

Jandy Never-Lube Pool and Spa 3-Way Diverter Valve, 2" Inside, 2-1/2" Outside Slip - 4717 - INYOPools.com

Jandy Valves Neverlube - Swimming Pool and Spa Valves from Jandy

www.inyopools.com

And this check valve:

Jandy Check Valve 2 Inside 2.5 Outside- 7305 - INYOPools.com

Jandy Check Valve

www.inyopools.com

I may as well buy the parts to create a heater bypass too while i am at it IMHO.

Can i get your thoughts on these parts - i believe these are correct for my needs. I have a current 3 prong twist lock plug on my current pump, i plan on taking this cord from the current pump and installing on the new one when it arrives. Is there any issue with doing this? It will save my upwards of $70 on the 3 prong twisted plug part.

Thanks for your 2-cents.

 

[cowboycasey]

I love a 2 speed pump, run them on low most of the time.. those parts should work great

 

[ccfc1986]

I love a 2 speed pump, run them on low most of the time.. those parts should work great

Thanks for the reply! Phew.

Last question/confirmation... Any issue using the current cable/plug from the dying pump with the new one (which comes with std 3 prong vs lock/twist)? I'm not electrically inclined, however, I assume it's take a picture of cabling/connections and redo on new pump...

Thanks again! Clicking buy now!

 

[cowboycasey]

as long as the cable is good and not frayed or charred..

 

[ccfc1986]

Hey guys. Sorry (again) for opening up this thread. Not sure if its right to open a new one or bring this back to life for related questions?

I just received my jandy 3 way valve. Please forgive my ignorance and lack of understanding when i ask the following:

I noticed the INLET marked on the one piece...so that should be the side that comes from my filter, then it goes left/right. I will have to elbow the right side to go into the heater, then the left side will go towards the pool inlet. This will give me the option of having the water flow through the heater OR bypassing the heater and going straight to the pool.

Question(s):
Are there any issues or recommendations for the 90 degree elbow i will need?
Am i missing anything in the shared diagram (current->new)
Would it make sense to add an additional 180 degree shut off valve on the inlet side (at the end of solid PVC and the transition to flexible tubing?) Why? This means i wouldn't need to plug the inlet inside the pool if i want to clean the filter. Or would i just set the 3 way jandy valve to heater, and the check valve will prevent flow back automatically?



Note:
The thinner line is flexible hose
The circles are valves of one kind or another
arrows on thick lines dictate water flow direction
(no PVC, hose, etc comes from the waste port between the pump and filter (this isn't ever used)

 

[cowboycasey]

This is the perfect way to do it, this lets us know what you have been doing and trying to do now..

New (help) > That is exactly how you want to do the heater bypass, great job

 

[ccfc1986]

Just confirming, the additional shut off valve on the inlet side isn't required due to the jandy check valve and 3 way (when set to heater), correct?

What if i run without the heater most times... which i expect to be the case (as it will only be used early and late in the season - midwest here) - the shut off valve there would mean i can prevent backflow from the pool inlet to the filter while cleaning it, right? Thoughts? Or just switch to the heater flow when cleaning the filter and be done with it?

 

[cowboycasey]

That is the exact way I use it also.. stops the flow both ways going to the pump and filter

 

[ccfc1986]

Moving the check valve accomplishes what i think we are talking about?



Before the check valve was going to be between the heater outlet, a 3 way connection with no valve or shut off (1 way goes to the 3 way valve/filter the other to the pool).

With the check valve here - it will prevent ANY backflow to either the heater OR the filter regardless of how the 3 way is set.

If the check valve is placed in the spot on the original diagram - it would NOT help with backflow to the filter if bypassing the heater... right?

 

[cowboycasey]

nope, need the backflow back where you had it... This is the 3 way valve that will stop backflow from coming back into the filter... if you move the valve to this position nothing can get to the filter..

 

[ccfc1986]

OK now i must just be missing something here.

Here is what my valve looks like see attached image)


In this position all things are open. Meaning water can flow in all directions.

Which one of these would be the inlet from the filter? The only way what your describing would work is if this one is from the filter, and the OFF is on that side.


Where my hand is holding would be the in from filter. The opposite side would go the the heater and the left 90 would be the bypass to the pool.

 

[cowboycasey]

1 to filter..
2. to heater
3. bypass..

The way you have the valve right now would block the water coming into the filter..

 

[ccfc1986]

Okay. Got it. I'm going to have to move the pad for the filter and pump away from the heater to make this work. Hopefully I'll be able to figure out all out! Concerned the heater and pad are not on the same level exactly.
Thanks again for the replies and all the support. Much appreciated.

 

[cowboycasey]

I messed up the numbers, trying to post to fast or my dyslexia got me

1. filter

2. Bypass

3. Heater..

Sorry about that...