So i'm messing around with the Taylor test kit i ordered to see how it compares to the kit i got from lowes and it looks like they both read almost the exact same values but after putting my reading of 50 in pool math with a target of 450 it's telling me to add 30lbs of Calcium chloride or 40lbs of Calcium Chloride dihydrate. Im just double checking this as 30-40lbs sounds a lot of any chemical.
CH only 50 Pool math says add 30lbs!
- Thread starter BC78
- Start date
- May 23, 2015
- 24,474
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Why do you want to add calcium? It’s not necessary for a fiberglass pool. At lost, all you need is 100ppm. But even then it isn’t critical.
If that's the case I wont add it. I put fiberglass into pool math and that's the amounts it's giving me. So should i keep it as low as possible and i assume this wont mess with my pool equipment?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,181
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Confirm you do not have tile with grout installed on the waterline of your FG pool.
This comes up a lot as a common thread. Just leave it alone and levels will increase over time
I looked at the heater instructions and it requires 200-400ppm i might keep it at 300ppm and see how i get on with how the water feels.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,887
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
What is the ch of your fill water?
That also needs to be taken into consideration before targeting a higher ch number as it will cause the ch to rise over time when you replenish water lost to evaporation.
Overshooting ch means that you must replace water to lower it so going in stages with large additions is recommended, especially if its a new pool & you’re not totally honed in on the exact volume yet.
The higher your ch, the higher your potential for scale on surfaces & equipment like your swg.
If the lowest recommended level for the heater (& its warranty) is 200 you may want to aim for that to play it safe on both fronts.
What heater do you have?
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That also needs to be taken into consideration before targeting a higher ch number as it will cause the ch to rise over time when you replenish water lost to evaporation.
Overshooting ch means that you must replace water to lower it so going in stages with large additions is recommended, especially if its a new pool & you’re not totally honed in on the exact volume yet.
The higher your ch, the higher your potential for scale on surfaces & equipment like your swg.
If the lowest recommended level for the heater (& its warranty) is 200 you may want to aim for that to play it safe on both fronts.
What heater do you have?
Add it & all your equipment to your signature so you get the most accurate advice for your situation when posting.
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Calcium Hardness - Further Reading
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- May 23, 2015
- 24,474
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Those aren’t “requirements”, the heater will work no matter the CH. Heater manufacturers borrowed these specs from the boiler industry under the assumptions that you need to precipitated a layer of calcium into the internal metal surface of the heat exchanger to “protect it” from corrosion. As long as you maintain properly balanced water and the pH stays above 7 and below 8, your heater won’t care why the CH is. You really don’t need to raise it. And, if you do and you want to lower it, the only way to relive CH is by draining and refilling. It will naturally rise on its own.