Cell shouldn't be dead but it acts like it.

[spthomas]

It's early in the season, but I'm already seeing algae. Water temp has been hoverning around 60, up a bit and down a bit. So I started up the salt system and have been trying to get it going. Not working. So here's what I'm seeing:
11,000 gal pool with Aquarite salt system, T-15.
1. Water temp today is 64 degrees F.
2. Salt system was off, as I slammed my 11,000 gal pool with 1 gal of 10% chlorine, filled the chlorinator with 3"tabs, and filled a floater with 3" tabs. Chlorine is around 10 right now.
3. I tested the water with my Taylor FAS-DPD kit. Free chlorine = 10ppm. Ph is 8.0 TA is 130. Hardness 200. Salt 3200.
4. I double checked with test strips, and all were pretty close to the real readings from my Taylor kit, so chemicals are ok.
5. It turned on the salt system with the pump already running. clicked 5 times to calibrate the salt level. It started high, but dropped for about a minute. Salt level showing on the system is 2200. Showing on and Generating.
6. 5 minutes later, it's still showing 2200, but "Check Salt" red light is on, and yellow "check Cell" is on.
7. Oh, and I cleaned the cell with water/acid yesterday. No visible buildup anyway, and when I added the solution no foaming reaction. So the cell was clean.

So, I'm afraid this 2 year old cell is dead. But if anyone thinks something different (and cheaper) I am all ears!

Thanks all.

Steve

 

[ajw22]

What is your CYA?

Post a full set of diagnostic readings for your SWG.

 

[JamesW]

What are the first seven characters of the serial number of the cell?

What brand of cell did you buy?

Test your salinity a different way to confirm.

Are you sure that you're doing the salinity test correctly?

 

[spthomas]

The CYA level is 90.

I checked salinity with the Taylor K-1766 Salt Test Kit 3200. Tested with a salt test strip - 3000. Unit says 2100. This is the third time I've done the salt test this year. The readings for the Taylor test kit and the strips have been pretty close to each other and and realistic (I add salt, the readings go up). The unit stayed at 1700 for a long time, then was 3000 for a while one day, then settled on this 2100 ish reading. So a bit inconsistent.

Diag values just now: 2100, 65, 32.2, 0.00, 56P, -0, AL-0. That was with the red "check salt" light on and yellow inspect cell" light on.
When i turn the unit on, it's generating for just a few seconds then switches these lights on.

The cell is a Platinum series cell I got from an online Pool Supply. It's only 2 years old.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Mine is 4 months old, but reads low in cold weather. What is your idea salt level for the T-15? Mine is a pentair, but the ideal salt level is 3600. If you are at 3,200, why not bump it up a bit and see if that makes your cell happy?

 

[JamesW]

If the cell is under warranty, just file a warranty claim.

When you get a generic cell, you pay less but you get a lower quality product. This is why I recommend the original Hayward.

Try moving the switch to off and then back on to restart the cell and check the readings.

Do that one more time to reverse the polarity and recheck the readings.

 

[spthomas]

Well, I've turned it off and on 5 or 6 times over the last few days, and it always does the same thing. I don't know about changing the polarity, is that something else I can try? I know after it tries to generate for about 15 seconds it jumps to the inspect cell and check salt.

And yes, as I said above, one of the first things I did was inspect the cell and clean it with an acid solution. But it wasn't dirty and there's nothing visibly wrong with it.

It is under warranty, so I'll start that process. Thanks all.

 

[JamesW]

Check the readings during the 15 seconds when it is generating. Then, turn it off and then back on and recheck the readings during the 15 seconds that it's generating.

 

[spthomas]

It never really settles down before it's off. But here are the readings in that few seconds before it dies:
2200
65
25.1-32.4 (it may have started lower it was going up)
3.41-4.2 (same, it may have been lower initially this is where I caught it going up.
56P
-2200
AL-0
R 1.32

 

[JamesW]

I think that the cell is probably dead. See if they will replace it under warranty.

If the voltage is erratic, it might indicate a bad thermistor. But, if the voltage is fairly steady, the thermistor is probably ok.

 

[spthomas]

The voltage is pretty steady once it settles down after a few seconds. And I replaced the thermistor about a year ago and it worked fine all last summer. So probably a cell. Darn. I am really getting tired of working on this salt system, and the pool in general.
Thanks again for all the information folks. Very helpful.

 

[JamesW]

How much did you pay for the cell?

What is the warranty?

Are they going to replace it under warranty?

 

[spthomas]

It was around $300. Still looking for the paperwork, it wasn't in my "pool" box with all the other paperwork. This would be the one piece of paper I can't find! So till I find that I won't know. It's a "Platinum Series" brand.

 

[JamesW]

Contact the seller, they should have the records. You should have an account with the information.

 

[spthomas]

Ok, looks like I've been had on this one. I looked up the charge from just under two years ago, and the company that sold it to me was "TPS Cells Narang AU". So I looked up and there is a water instrument company in Australia named TPS. But They say they've never sold salt cells. So, I think this was someone who wanted to tread on the water quality reputuation of TPS to sell me this then they went away. Oh well. Guess I need to just buy a new one.

So, where is the best place at the best price to get a salt cell for my Aquarite? Third party cells are a lot cheaper, but are some better than others? It seems third party cells run $200-$330, and real Hayward cells are over $500.

Steve