CC result of > 6.0? should i SLAM?

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S

Stooge007

0
Jan 10, 2017
28
Sydney, Australia
hi all

pretty new to the TFPC methods, but my Clear Choice Labs test kit (seems to be best i can get in Australia) arrived yesterday so i did a test this morning

FC 5.5
CC > 6.0
Ph 7.6
CYA 30
CH 100
TA 150

i was battling a very mild algae problem (before i found TFP), which my method of combat was:

- pressure hose (Karcher) all the algae off (pebblecrete pool, so it gets stuck between the pebbles)
- added the recommended dose of this - Hy-Clor 1L Super Algaecide | Bunnings Warehouse , forgive me, this was before i read about SLAMing!!!
- brought FC up to shock level (CYA at the time was 30, so targeted FC of 12), but did not maintain (again this was my pre TFP days)
- left the pump running for 48 hours to circulate everything around

the water was clear before i started the above, went a little cloudy after i had pressure washed all the algae off, but after 48 hours (with periodic filter washing) the water was clear again. FC was > 10 (only had test strips) so i thought job was done

this was about 2 weeks ago, so now have the above test results where i'm getting a CC of > 6.0 (stopped @ 12 drops cos i thought this was VERY high?)

the pool water is clear, i can't see any visible algae

should i SLAM?

or should i just raise CYA to 70 and then maintain FC @ 5?

i have a SWG that outputs 170g chlorine every 6 hours

thanks all :)
 
Great suggestion from Jim re OCLT. That number is quite extraordinary, so if it were me, I'd double-check testing...

After the FC test goes clear, and using the same 10 ml sample, you add 5 drops of the chlorine detection reagent and swirl. Usually the sample remains clear, you have 0.0 CC, and the test is finished.

Or it's pink again. If pink, you add the same chlorine titrating reagent you used for the FC test, one drop at a time. One drop to turn it clear again would be 0.5 ppm CC, 2 drops 1.0 CC, etc.

Just double checking because 6.0 ppm CC is quite unusual. A large contamination of bather waste would be needed, or a bunch of fertilizer or something.
 
Well the sample didn't go fully pink after adding the 2nd droplets.

****, I think my problem is I was using the 2nd droplets again and not switching back to the first ones!!!

Anyway, did an FC test at sundown which showed 6.0, will test again in the morning and see how much I lose

Hoping to not have to SLAM, but just raise CYA and maintain FC at around 5.0

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
tests this morning:

FC 5.0
CC 0.5
Ph 7.6
CYA 30
CH 100
TA 150

lost FC 1.0 overnight (6.0 down to 5.0), and CC of 0.5 (now that i'm using the right droplets!)

water is clear, so fairly happy that there's nothing growing in the pool now :)

will raise CYA to 70 and target FC around 5.0

should i aim to reduce TA to 75?

cheers
 
That's great to hear :)

TA at 150 is a pain, because you must be needing to reduce pH several times per week to stay at pH 7.5 to 7.8

The TA test has a standard version (lower line) and a high sensitivity (upper line) version. TA at 150 would be 6 drops at the lower line, or 15 drops with the sample at the upper line.

For 150 TA, yep, I would reduce it, and there's three ways to do that.

Slow: just keep correcting pH to 7.5 by adding acid when pH goes over 7.8 and the TA will go down gradually
Medium: add enough acid to reduce the pH to 7.2 each time
Slighty faster: add enough acid to reduce pH to 7.0 each time
Fastest: add enough acid to reduce pH to 7.0 and then aerate the water to get it back up to 7.8 more quickly so you can add acid again. Procedure described here: Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity

Use only hydrochloric acid (aka muriatic acid or MA) and not dry acid because of the SWG, among other reasons. Use PoolMath to determine the amount of acid, and for PoolMath to be correct, you need to enter the correct pH and your new TA each time.
 
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