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POOL PUMP'S GOVERNOR'S HINGE IS LIKELY DISLODGED AND CAUSING THE "V" SWITCH TO STAY ON AND THUS BLOWING THE CAPACITOR
Typically when people try to isolate the shaft rotation in order to screw on the impellar at the other end, they jam a screwdriver next to/on/or in the governor at the end of the shaft. While it nicely stops the rotation of the shaft for the placement of the impellar, that can easily dislodge the hinge points on the governor. The governor is the metal thing with the two springs and a plate that moves when the cetrifugal force increases after the motor starts. When the governor's plate pivots it releases (turns off) the "V" shaped switch. (Note: the default position of the plate is such that it pushes a button on the "V" switch which causes switch contact and turns it on. This allows juice to flow to charge the start capacitor. The start capacitor stores the voltage needed to start the motor when it initially has to overcome the inertia caused by the static water). After startup, the switch turns off (due to the governor plate pivoting, due to the centrifugal force on the weights on the governor). This in turn cuts off the power to the start capacitor (so it doesn't blow). All of this is designed to occur right after the pump starts up to initially allow the start capacitor to be charged, then after start up, cut the power to the start capacitor off so it doesn't blow.
When you stuck the screwdriver next to the governor to put the impellar on the other end, you likely dislodged the hinge points of the governor. This jams the plate and keeps the "V" switch permanently on. This then blows the start capacitor. So....to fix this...take the "V" shaped switch off to allow better access to the governor (the switch has one screw holding it on). Look carefully at the governor hinge points to be sure they are set in the appropriate spot (this will be obvious or at least intuitive). If not, carefully adjust the plate hinge points to the appropriate spot. Now test the hinge mechanism of the plate by pushing on it. It should move freely (with some resistance from the spring) and spring back without binding. Next look at the switch. Make sure that the contact points (where the the brass strips touch) are NOT making contact in the natural state (that is, when the switch is off the motor). If they are making contact, you can carefully adjust the brass strips to make sure that there is a gap. Push the switch button. The contacts should make contact. Now put the switch back on. When you do so the button on the "V" switch will align with the governor plate get pushed it in, thus making the switch contact points touch. This will cause the natural state of the switch's contact points (when the switch is back on the motor) to be touching (remember when the switch is off the motor the switch will convert to the off position (no contact) because the button won't be pushed by the governor plate).
The other thing to make sure you do is to put the metal "C" clip that holds the capacitor in place OVER plastic shield that has writing on it. If you don't do this, or you don't put the shield on at all, the capacitor will short out on the motor cover.
Lastly, always make sure that you have the right size capacitor. Must be the same volt rating and at least the same or slightly higher uF rating.
Don't forget to always turn the power breaker off before messing with any of this and discharge the capacitor by bridging a screwdriver across all the contact points.
3 capacitors later I am happy to share this knowledge!
POOL PUMP'S GOVERNOR'S HINGE IS LIKELY DISLODGED AND CAUSING THE "V" SWITCH TO STAY ON AND THUS BLOWING THE CAPACITOR
Typically when people try to isolate the shaft rotation in order to screw on the impellar at the other end, they jam a screwdriver next to/on/or in the governor at the end of the shaft. While it nicely stops the rotation of the shaft for the placement of the impellar, that can easily dislodge the hinge points on the governor. The governor is the metal thing with the two springs and a plate that moves when the cetrifugal force increases after the motor starts. When the governor's plate pivots it releases (turns off) the "V" shaped switch. (Note: the default position of the plate is such that it pushes a button on the "V" switch which causes switch contact and turns it on. This allows juice to flow to charge the start capacitor. The start capacitor stores the voltage needed to start the motor when it initially has to overcome the inertia caused by the static water). After startup, the switch turns off (due to the governor plate pivoting, due to the centrifugal force on the weights on the governor). This in turn cuts off the power to the start capacitor (so it doesn't blow). All of this is designed to occur right after the pump starts up to initially allow the start capacitor to be charged, then after start up, cut the power to the start capacitor off so it doesn't blow.
When you stuck the screwdriver next to the governor to put the impellar on the other end, you likely dislodged the hinge points of the governor. This jams the plate and keeps the "V" switch permanently on. This then blows the start capacitor. So....to fix this...take the "V" shaped switch off to allow better access to the governor (the switch has one screw holding it on). Look carefully at the governor hinge points to be sure they are set in the appropriate spot (this will be obvious or at least intuitive). If not, carefully adjust the plate hinge points to the appropriate spot. Now test the hinge mechanism of the plate by pushing on it. It should move freely (with some resistance from the spring) and spring back without binding. Next look at the switch. Make sure that the contact points (where the the brass strips touch) are NOT making contact in the natural state (that is, when the switch is off the motor). If they are making contact, you can carefully adjust the brass strips to make sure that there is a gap. Push the switch button. The contacts should make contact. Now put the switch back on. When you do so the button on the "V" switch will align with the governor plate get pushed it in, thus making the switch contact points touch. This will cause the natural state of the switch's contact points (when the switch is back on the motor) to be touching (remember when the switch is off the motor the switch will convert to the off position (no contact) because the button won't be pushed by the governor plate).
The other thing to make sure you do is to put the metal "C" clip that holds the capacitor in place OVER plastic shield that has writing on it. If you don't do this, or you don't put the shield on at all, the capacitor will short out on the motor cover.
Lastly, always make sure that you have the right size capacitor. Must be the same volt rating and at least the same or slightly higher uF rating.
Don't forget to always turn the power breaker off before messing with any of this and discharge the capacitor by bridging a screwdriver across all the contact points.
3 capacitors later I am happy to share this knowledge!
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