Cant keep up with Chlorine.. high cya

Aug 17, 2017
58
Chandler
My pool is 15 yrs old, with some caulking issues between coping and tiles, which I am going to address this evening.

My cya is around 200+ and can't keep up with Chlorine anymore.

I have Leslies powder plus, sodium hipochlorite and add that a ton to keep the green algae from forming.

Live in Chandler, AZ and I think I need to empty my pool ASAP.

It is low 80's early morning and is it wise to empty the plaster pool, while day time temp reaches 104. I can wait another 2 months to drain the pool.

Ordering the K2006C and will test myself. Never going to add the pool tabs, as it is the reason CYA is increasing.

ETA:
I found few HASA dealers who will sell liquid chlorine, which is what I am going to use after refill.

Do I need to add CYA after the pool is drained and refilled? Can I add pool tablets for few days until CYA is reached to 40?
Anything else I need to worry about?
 
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Quick reponse, more details will follow, you are on the right track. You could start with your current supply of tabs after the refill, you'll want CYA in your pool.

You can drain and refill simultaneously. Plenty of threads about it, just match your hoses fill rate with your other hoses drain rate.

How are you planning on refilling? Considered reverse osmosis?

Welcome!
 
You do not say your volume -- but RO can range from $400 to $1000 depending on size. You also cannot have any algae as it will plug their system.

I would highly suggest the exchange method harley mentioned. If you are interested, we can get more detail. You do not want to go over 10 gpm so not sure how long that will take.

Please add a signature -- Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
 
Thanks just updated my signature.
Our yard is small and we cannot empty the pool, even 10%, as the desert land does not absorb the water, just overflows.. Have to put in the pump and run pipes, around 140 meters to get to the drain.

You do not say your volume -- but RO can range from $400 to $1000 depending on size. You also cannot have any algae as it will plug their system.

I would highly suggest the exchange method harley mentioned. If you are interested, we can get more detail. You do not want to go over 10 gpm so not sure how long that will take.

Please add a signature -- Pool School - Read This BEFORE You Post
 
Thanks just updated my signature.
Our yard is small and we cannot empty the pool, even 10%, as the desert land does not absorb the water, just overflows.. Have to put in the pump and run pipes, around 140 meters to get to the drain.

The problem with high CYA is that once you've added CYA to your pool, it won't get lower short of a drain/refill, reverse osmosis, and a CYA eating bacteria that makes ammonia levels sky high (so really bad).
 
When did you last drain? in Phoenix area we mainly drain to get CH (Calcium Hardness) down do to hard water (or high CYA). You need a good test kit such as the TF100 or Taylor 2006c to find out your readings.

You can't do a full drain till around November due to the heat. You could do a partial drain and keep the exposed plaster wet with a hose.
Auqalabz (Ecoklear) in Tempe does the RO. I tried to call several times and never got an answer so I did a full drain this last winter.
 
I drained my pool in 2015 December and have been using tablets from costco until it was too late. My cya levels are over 200 or worse.
I will get this drained in Dec again, but until then I am struggling to keep up with Chlorine. Adding almost 2 lbs of sodium hipochorite every week and brushing every day to keep the algae.
 
There is a way to exchange the water without draining. It is especially effective if your CH reading is very high. It uses the different densities of the pool water and fill water to keep them separated.

You need to use a sump pump, a small one, as you need it to be a slow process. You will not harm your plaster that way. And then you can get your water managed.

You do need a proper test kit --
 

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If you are using Powder Plus that is cal-hypo which adds calcium which we don't need. You need a good test kit and results to know where to go from here. When I took mine into the pool store they were low on CH and CYA levels when I compared to my TF100.
 
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