Can't get pump to start - auto Pilot 48

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#1
Hi all - I'm new - Just got a pool and put Dig-48 on it. I'm real excited to use this system - get great reviews.....
However
I just got it all wired up and pump won't start. Wired it as a 1 speed (Hayward Super Pump), Did all the jumpering and changed fuse - Yes, I double checked everything
When I power it up I get blinking red light, "purifier off! Check Flow", Next screen says "Purifier 99%, time - temp- OFF
Am I missing something as simple as an On / Off Switch?
I want the system to run my pump and I assume I wired correctly for my pump
The other ? is for the big 3 position plug that connects to the Cell - is it polarized? Which hole does the red cap plug go into and how do I know - nothing's marked
Thanx in advance
Its 3 in Central PA and I wanna swim!!
Mike
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#3
Still need help!

Thanx for the quick reply - I figured that part out with a continuity test. But that still doesn't get my pump to kick on.
I installed the manifold and ran it all dy till I was sure there were no leaks so I KNOW here's power and flow and all those little things.
Still need help
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#4
Still need help!

Thanx for the quick reply - I figured that part out with a continuity test. But that still doesn't get my pump to kick on.
I installed the manifold and ran it all dy till I was sure there were no leaks so I KNOW here's power and flow and all those little things.
Still need help
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#6
I would assume there is power - the pump ran all day and when I plug it in it goes thru its POST the display lights. There is no flow coz there is no running pump.
I had one thought - I read a post by SeanB WRT the auto pilot system - he said there are only 2 acceptable ways to mount the manifold - upright, like in the manual and flow arrow facing down / cell on the bottom like I have mine. Could the orientation play into this??
I really appreciate your help Strannik
Sorry for the Double Post last time - my PC had a Hiccup
Mike
 

Rockcrawler

Well-known member
#8
are you running 230v or 115v?? it obvious you have pwr to the auto pilot but not to the pump, verify your connections again, and I am a bit confused when you said you ran it all day?? orientation of the cell is not going to stop your pump from running
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#9
I switched it to 110V according to the manual - jumpers / fuse / etc
the water does not flow - and will not - unless there is a pump to push it thru
My problem is - the pump does not fire up - it did B4 I cut the wire and gave control to the Dig48. I get a check flow error coz ther is NO FLOW / no Pump
Thanx guys \
This is no fun for me Either!

M
 

Rockcrawler

Well-known member
#11
I am not an electrician by trade, but just a DYI, but I just installed an autopilot dig220 my self but I connected it to my already installed timer, as I look throught the auto pilot manual, I have some questions to why/if you converted your pump to 115v, if you didn't convert your pump to 115v then that might be your problem, if I am reading right you do not have to, and your pump now will now require twice as many amps to work, which in turn will cost you more $$, you could of left your pump 220v then hooked up your autopilot as well, it came from the factory 220v. the auto pilot can be switched to 115v because some pool pumps are wired that way, I would convert it back over to 220v and then look on page 5 in the manual and hook up the wires accordingly. I know "poolsean" works for autopilot and could shed some more light on the subject.

If I am a bit confusing, I just want to say that both the autopilot and the pump, need to be 115v or 220v, right now I think you have the autopilot 115v and your pump 220 that is why your pump is not operating
Rob
 
#12
Jumboshrimp,
I sent you a PM earlier today to call me on my cell phone when you're able to be by your equipment with a cordless/cell phone.

RockCrawler had a great question...why did you change the Digital to operate on 110 volts? Is that what your pump was wired for?

Rock, the cost on 110 or 220 will be the same. At 110 volts, its drawing twice the amps of 220 volts, but the overall power consumption, determined by P=IV (Power (in kilowatts) = Current x Voltage).
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#13
Thnx Rock
My pump is on a Plug-in 110 WeatherTight 2 Gang with my heater. I assume the AutoPilot is 220 OEM - that's why I jumpered it. Once the fence is finished it will all be hard wired and look nice.
Maybe I should NOT have made the wiring changes and left it alone....?
I'll get more tomorrow - will test the line in to B sure its not 220
Thanx
You guys are great!!
Mike
 
#15
Jumboshrimp,

The Pool Pilot must match the voltage of the Pump.

If you press the BOOST button, does the pump come on? Can you "HEAR" the pump relay activate (audible click)?
Can you tell us where the pump wired are connected onto the terminal strip?
How about the incoming voltage wires?

My bet is that you have the incoming wires connected to the first and second terminals (from the left), with no jumper wires to the third and forth terminals. This would explain the Pool Pilot displays operating properly (?), but the pump not activating.
If so, the incoming voltage wires should be connected to the third and forth terminals, then there should be jumper wires from #3 to #1, and #4 to #2. Terminals #5 and #6 should be your pump wires.

I'm unavailable during church tomorrow (Sunday) from 9 am - 12 pm. However, if you have not figured out what the problem is, feel free to call me. 954-325-3859

Final offer.
 
#16
No sweat Rob.
In some cases it makes a difference in your total amperage draw on your breaker subpanel. For instance if you have a 100 amp panel, if you've got a heat pump, circulation pump, several water feature pumps, lights, spa blower, salt system, etc... you're probably much better off running 220 volts to the equipment so you don't overload the 100 amps.
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#17
Got it FIXED!

Sean talked me thru the setup - it WAS something simple. Sean is a real ambassador to both his company and this group - how many people would give out their personal Ph# and field a call prior to 8AM on a SUNDAY!!! (It took all I had to wait till 7:50 - I was ready to call @ 6!)
Sorry that this had to be my 1st post - I hope I get the opportunity to 'give back' a little when its my turn
Thanx for all the input - I love Internet forums - SO MANY people willing to take their time to help. YOU GUYS RULE!!!
On my way to get 450# of salt and let the fun begin!!
Mike
 

Rockcrawler

Well-known member
#18
Hey Jumbo,

Let us know what you did to fix it even know it was simple, and yes I agree with you seanpool is the man for autopilot, that is why I bought autopilot

Thanks sean for the info on the amps, makes sense if you use 220v you can you les amps, got it!!
 

JumboShrimp

LifeTime Supporter
Jun 4, 2008
42
0
#19
Rock, you're right. For the good of the collective...
Apparently, the thing comes OEM looking for an external timer. When it didn't find one it waited - not turning ANYTHING on till human intervention. Sean talked me thru the setup and set it for a 1 speed pump - DONE! It was THAT simple.
I wish the manual was a little more detailed in 'spalining' things like I knew Zero (which IS the case here)
I'm happy to be involved with this group - I knew this was a simple fix - I just needed a little push in the right direction
Mike