Can't Get Alkalinity Under Control

[RyeRock23]

You need to know your CYA level before you can determine what your FC level should be. See the FC/CYA Levels.

Bather load will have some effect, as will rain, but generally, sunlight is the biggest factor in chlorine degradation.

Things that impact FC:
Bather load
Organic debris inn the pool (leaves, pollen, etc.)
Rain (through washout and dilution)
and Sun
One thing I have not seen you post is your CYA reading. Without that the FC doesn't mean a lot. FC/CYA Levels says that FC of 10.5 is unsafe for any CYA less than 20

@MITBeta and/or @crusemm

Thank you for the replies and yes I had forgotten about using the FC/CYA chart. I knew it had to be at least 30 because it was reading 6 at the pool store and they gave me enough product to raise it to at least 30.

CYA using Taylor 2006C kit = 31

Seeing that I have a SWG I believe my target CYA would be higher correct? Do you recommend to add more product to increase my CYA, lower my SWG production or both? I stopped adding product to increase the CYA around 30 because I've read that I should use dichlor when shocking a saltwater pool is needed and that dichlor will raise CYA each time. *Note, I haven't had to shock the pool yet and it's been under our care for a little over a month now.

 

[Texas Splash]

Good job getting that test kit. As others have pointed out, by knowing your CYA you can go to the FC/CYA Levels to ensure you are in the proper FC range. Your TA will continue to fall each time you address the elevated pH. Your call on the pump speed. As long as there is enough water flow to keep the flow switch engaged (between 1,200 - 1,400 should work) it's fine. After the flow switch, you do want enough water circulation to move debris to the skimmer. But the option to reduce SWG output or pump run time is totally up to you. No real right or wrong answer.

 

[MITBeta]

Do you recommend to add more product to increase my CYA, lower my SWG production or both?

You should add more CYA to protect the chlorine being generated but...

Before you do that, run an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test to make sure you have nothing to do battle with before adding stabilizer.

Once you do that, you may even be able to lower your SWG output.

I've read that I should use dichlor when shocking a saltwater pool is needed

You haven't read that at TFP. Following TFP guidelines means you should rarely, if ever, have to shock, and when you do, it's done in a controlled, scientific way by following the SLAM Process. When following SLAM, liquid chlorine is recommended, not powdered shock of any kind.

dichlor will raise CYA each time.

True. Which is why it's generally not used at TFP, unless particularly strategically.