Can't beat this brown/orange colored algae

[Pennypacker]

Hi everyone, I've been learning here for years first time posting! I'm in a serious battle with some brownish colored algae. Pools been open for 2 weeks now, water is clear and my tests are pretty much dialed in but can't shake this large spot on the shallow end floor. I even broke down went to the pool store and bought a bottle of silverside algaecide . It's been 3 days since I dumped the whole qt in and algae is growing. I've scrubbed every inch of this pool for 2 weeks and have been brushing the algae spot 3 times a day. If it wasn't slimed I would almost think it was a stain at this point. I don't know what else to do. 10 years with this pool and never had any issue like this whatsoever, Please help!!!

FC: 6
CC 0.5
PH: 7.5
CH: 200
TA: 100
CYA: 40

 

[Richard320]

Algaecide works better as a preventative than as a cure in the same way that wiping surfaces with Lysol stops the spread of germs but drinking it won't cure a cold.

To kill algae, you need high levels of chlorine. Real high. With CYA of 40, that means 24 FC. If it's mustard algae -- usually in the shady areas -- even higher. Directions are in the SLAM Process article.

If all the algae is localized, I'd be tempted to add the bleach by pouring it through a pipe straight into that area, following up with a vigorous brushing. The whole pool needs brushing, but especially anywhere it is slimy. You need to break through the protective biofilm to kill the algae.

 

[adeleincali]

Algaecide works better as a preventative than as a cure in the same way that wiping surfaces with Lysol stops the spread of germs but drinking it won't cure a cold.

To kill algae, you need high levels of chlorine. Real high. With CYA of 40, that means 24 FC. If it's mustard algae -- usually in the shady areas -- even higher. Directions are in the SLAM Process article.

If all the algae is localized, I'd be tempted to add the bleach by pouring it through a pipe straight into that area, following up with a vigorous brushing. The whole pool needs brushing, but especially anywhere it is slimy. You need to break through the protective biofilm to kill the algae.

Your soooooo smart...I know I speak for alot of us here; "Thank you Richard!" for all your posts and knowledge!!!

 

[Pennypacker]

Thanks Richard. I added what bleach I had on hand and should be up around 20ppm. Need to get some more tomorrow. When I slammed it last week the algae disappeared only to return when my chlorine level came down. I guess I should have done the OCLT. I will this time for sure. Thanks again

 

[adeleincali]

Thanks Richard. I added what bleach I had on hand and should be up around 20ppm. Need to get some more tomorrow. When I slammed it last week the algae disappeared only to return when my chlorine level came down. I guess I should have done the OCLT. I will this time for sure. Thanks again

I did the same thing! I let my chlorine level down as I had run out. Dont worry, you got this...

 

[crocop]

Algaecide works better as a preventative than as a cure in the same way that wiping surfaces with Lysol stops the spread of germs but drinking it won't cure a cold.

To kill algae, you need high levels of chlorine. Real high. With CYA of 40, that means 24 FC. If it's mustard algae -- usually in the shady areas -- even higher. Directions are in the SLAM Process article.

If all the algae is localized, I'd be tempted to add the bleach by pouring it through a pipe straight into that area, following up with a vigorous brushing. The whole pool needs brushing, but especially anywhere it is slimy. You need to break through the protective biofilm to kill the algae.

Hi sorry, new to SLAM and just read this.

Why do you say you need FC of 24 with CYA of 40, when then CYA/Chlorine chart says FC 16 to shock at CYA of 40.

Can you please explain? Should my FC be higher than shock on that chart when trying to kill algea?

 

[Richard320]

Hi sorry, new to SLAM and just read this.

Why do you say you need FC of 24 with CYA of 40, when then CYA/Chlorine chart says FC 16 to shock at CYA of 40.

Can you please explain? Should my FC be higher than shock on that chart when trying to kill algea?

From poolmath. That is mustard algae shock level for 40 CYA. He's already done the conventional SLAM and this yellowish stuff returned. Hence the higher level.

You don't need to go that high.

 

[crocop]

From poolmath. That is mustard algae shock level for 40 CYA. He's already done the conventional SLAM and this yellowish stuff returned. Hence the higher level.

You don't need to go that high.

Ah ok.

Another question, for example, if CYA is 40 and FC to shock is 16...lets say I have it consistently at FC 20 or so. Would that ruin my liner? I have heard it would, if so, how would someone with mustard algae deal with consistently having to have FC at 24 with the same CYA as me?

 

[domct203]

Mustard level is only held for 24 hours after passing a standard SLAM.

Our recommended FC levels are safe for your liner, and once a SLAM is properly completed, you should never have to hold those elevated levels again. In the long run this is much kinder on your liner than traditional 'blind dumps' of chlorine weekly that pool $tores recommend.

As a matter of fact, one of our group here has a piece of liner that has been soaking in straight bleach for months, with no noticeable effects.

 

[crocop]

Mustard level is only held for 24 hours after passing a standard SLAM.

Our recommended FC levels are safe for your liner, and once a SLAM is properly completed, you should never have to hold those elevated levels again. In the long run this is much kinder on your liner than traditional 'blind dumps' of chlorine weekly that pool $tores recommend.

As a matter of fact, one of our group here has a piece of liner that has been soaking in straight bleach for months, with no noticeable effects.

Oh so you can still pass a SLAM and have mustard? Like it would be possible to get the water looking clear and then deal with the mustard algae after ?

 

[domct203]

The elevated FC for 24 hours is the final blow to any possibly remaining algae spores. Your not dealing with it later, you are addressing it in the final stage of the SLAM when mustard algae is suspect.

 

[crocop]

The elevated FC for 24 hours is the final blow to any possibly remaining algae spores. Your not dealing with it later, you are addressing it in the final stage of the SLAM when mustard algae is suspect.

Got it. Thanks for the explaination

 

[Pennypacker]

The elevated FC for 24 hours is the final blow to any possibly remaining algae spores. Your not dealing with it later, you are addressing it in the final stage of the SLAM when mustard algae is suspectI

Im starting to think this was never algae. Still there after the latest slam. I've read up on metal staining and removal but have a question now. I had the water tested last week and showed less than 0.1 ppm for metals. If the stain was already formed on the vinyl would they not show in the water test?

My my current numbers are
FC: 21.5
CC 0.5
PH: 7.4
TA: 110
CH: 200
CYA: 40

since I've passed my overnight chlorine test and I can't brush this stuff loose at all, im assuming this is a stain correct? This is so frustrating. 10 years of pool ownership and have never had any issues like this.

 

[Richard320]

The pool stores are no better at metal tests than they are at any others.

Set a Vitamin C tablet on the spot for thirty seconds or so. See if it leaves a clean spot.

 

[Ecoke]

ok...this is off post but relevant to me...in PennyPacker's post..the quotes get the informal "quote" designation while the rest of you get the nice QUOTE Box.

I too get the informal quote designation and cannot figure out why...any help???

Thanks

Ed

 

[Richard320]

ok...this is off post but relevant to me...in PennyPacker's post..the quotes get the informal "quote" designation while the rest of you get the nice QUOTE Box.

I too get the informal quote designation and cannot figure out why...any help???

Thanks

Ed

Because you edited and typed over the endquote.

With quote and endquote

QUOTE]Quote messed up [/QUOTE]

Endquote messed up /QUOTE]

 

[Ecoke]

Because you edited and typed over the endquote.
/QUOTE]

I don't want to mess up the OP's thread...but if I edited..I didn't know it..lol...so the above quote from you, I hit the little quote icon then copy and pasted the text in between the two quotes...and I get the same thing...

anyway..I'll stop and eventually figure it out...hate hijacking his thread...just has had me scratching my head.

Thanks as always Richard!

Ed

 

[Pennypacker]

The pool stores are no better at metal tests than they are at any others.

Set a Vitamin C tablet on the spot for thirty seconds or so. See if it leaves a clean spot.

So the vitamin C tablet cleared it right up. I'm going to follow the absorbing acid treatment steps. Before I start I want to make sure I know exactly what I'm doing. First, I need 0 chlorine correct? How important is my PH being 7.2 rather than the 7.4 I'm currently at? Also, is it possible to remove the metals with the polyfill stuffing in the pump basket or or do I just put in the sequestering agent and move on? Am I going to have to constantly add the sequestering agent? Sorry for all the questions I'm sure they've been covered here extensively. Thanks for your help[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][/FONT]

 

[Richard320]

This the extent of my knowledge Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains

I've lifted a few rust spots with vitamin C but they were real tiny and I never bothered with sequestrants.

 

[Pennypacker]

This the extent of my knowledge Ascorbic Treatment to rid Pool of metal stains

I've lifted a few rust spots with vitamin C but they were real tiny and I never bothered with sequestrants.

Thanks for your help Richard. I'm going to hold off for now until maybe someone chimes in that has been through this process. Would the stains just return without a sequestrant. I would think they would but unsure.