Shock level is based on CYA level. If you are shooting for 20 CYA, then the FC shock level is 10.
Can You Help Me?
- Thread starter mimidjets
- Start date
Only use the SWG section when operating the SWG. Otherwise use the non-swg section. If you add the CYA you should be about 30 after the addition, perhaps 40. Time will tell.
You need to be concerned with the current CYA level and it's corresponding shock level. Shock level is only dependent on the CYA - nothing else.
You can see this by looking a the CYA/Chlorine chart - For CYA = 30, the shock value is 12. For CYA = 60, the shock value is 24 for both SWG and Non-SWG pools.
Now, to determine the appropriate CYA, eventually you will want a target of 60-80 after everything is clear and the SWG is running. But for now, you want just enough CYA (20 to 40) to keep the sun from burning off too much during the day, when you are done shocking, you will then raise the CYA some more. If you went straight to 70-80, then you would have to add more bleach (more $) to reach the shock level.
As mentioned above, add enough CYA to get to 20 or 30, and then your shock target will be 10 or 12. Test and add chlorine as frequently as possible to raise the FC back up to 10 or 12. It may take a week or so until you pass the three criteria to stop the shock process.
When you pass the three criteria in a week or so, then add more CYA to get to 70 or 80. At that time you can start your SWG and you will want to maintain 3 or 4 as a minimum FC because you have the SWG.
You can see this by looking a the CYA/Chlorine chart - For CYA = 30, the shock value is 12. For CYA = 60, the shock value is 24 for both SWG and Non-SWG pools.
Now, to determine the appropriate CYA, eventually you will want a target of 60-80 after everything is clear and the SWG is running. But for now, you want just enough CYA (20 to 40) to keep the sun from burning off too much during the day, when you are done shocking, you will then raise the CYA some more. If you went straight to 70-80, then you would have to add more bleach (more $) to reach the shock level.
As mentioned above, add enough CYA to get to 20 or 30, and then your shock target will be 10 or 12. Test and add chlorine as frequently as possible to raise the FC back up to 10 or 12. It may take a week or so until you pass the three criteria to stop the shock process.
When you pass the three criteria in a week or so, then add more CYA to get to 70 or 80. At that time you can start your SWG and you will want to maintain 3 or 4 as a minimum FC because you have the SWG.
Sorry if I confused the issue, so to clarify:
Shock level is based on CYA level. Example: Shock level for a CYA of 60 is same for SWG or Non-SWG pools.
The difference in the SWG & Non-SWG charts is the fact that the minimum and target FC levels are lower for a SWG pool, hence the two charts.
ETA: good explanation rdhetrick
Shock level is based on CYA level. Example: Shock level for a CYA of 60 is same for SWG or Non-SWG pools.
The difference in the SWG & Non-SWG charts is the fact that the minimum and target FC levels are lower for a SWG pool, hence the two charts.
ETA: good explanation rdhetrick
Ok Thanks so much! I am so sorry I am so dumb at this stuff! I have read so much material about all of it, that I am just so confused as to what to do next. You guys have all been very patient with me and I greatly appreciate that. I do understand when you put it like that. So I need to check for sure what my CYA level is today, then set my FC target accordingly and keep the calculated amount of bleach at that target until clear. Let's pray that it clears up soon! I have two large bags of empty bleach bottles sitting out for the trash truck to pick up today! They are going to think I am making drugs or something!!! LOL Thanks so much for you patience and understanding! 
I have the Intex Krystal Clear Filter Pump Model 633T. What would cause my cartridge housing to fill up with air while running my pump. I have to continually turn the knob on the top of the housing to release air. Could there be a problem with my hoses? Would a missing o ring be the cause.
That means you have air air leak on the suction side (between the skimmer and the impeller inside the pump).
Ok thanks! That probably explains why I can't get my pool cleared up! The numbers are all ok but there is still cloudy water. I can just barely see the blue squares at the bottom of my pool.
Ok I changed out my hoses and the plunger valves. The filter housing is now staying full of water. Before the water that was in it wasn't even dirty. Now it is. So the filtration system must be working now. The water is still blue but cloudy. I am starting to be able to see the blue squares on the bottom of the pool, but just barely. My Ph is 7.4 and my chlorine is 3. Hopefully it will clear up now. Is there anything I can put in to get the water crystal clear or just wait it out now that it is filtering.
You have yet to report your current CYA which determines your minimum FC levels ... as well as the shock level for the shock process, which you should likely still be following since you have not passed at least one of the three criteria to stop.
Mimidjets, you're doing everything correctly it seems (but please provide CYA reading). I think the only thing you are lacking is patience!! You're getting there. Just trust that the advice you are getting will indeed work.
You're getting there. Just trust that the advice you are getting will indeed work.Well patience was what I needed. You were right. My numbers are all good and I can now see the bottom of my pool! The water is not crystal clear like I want it to be yet, but with a bit more patience and keeping my pool vacuumed and filter clean I am certainly getting there. Since I changed out my hoses, my filtration is now working properly. I am now dumping dirty water out of my filter housing instead of clean water and the housing is full of water not air! The filter has to be rinsed twice a day. That is helping tremendously. 
y_not
0
So glad to hear that you're beating it and finally seeing some visible results. Yaaayyyy!!
Tip: With those Intex cartridges, nylons are your friend. Slip 2 of the cheap'o 25 cent jobbies from Walmart (2/egg) over the cartridge itself. Make one end so they're both closed toes and taut over the impeller intake hole at the bottom of the housing, helps to catch junk the filter pleats let through.
The nylons catch more than the carts do and they keep things like bugs, grass, hair and other stuff out of the pleats. So cleaning them is easier. I just keep reusing them over and over till they get holes.
Keep in mind that filter cartridges work off of the cake principle. Whereby they do not clean as well when fresh and clean, but once a thin layer of crud starts to build up, they then trap smaller and smaller particles as they filter better. I used the return line as an indicator for when to clean the filter, once the flow noticeably reduces, I clean it.
Also, due to the bad design of the filter, it likes to primarily filter on one end of the cartridge and one side of it. So by rotating it about 45 degrees as well as flipping it end over end, you can get more run time out of it between cleanings. I also lift the cartridge housing up above the water line when changing it, so as not to let water flow out freely from the pool. But, once I get the dirty cartridge pulled out, I lower it below the waterline, turning it upside down to let fresh water flow out for a moment. Then I flip it back around, finishing the swap and buttoning it back down.
Thus rinsung out all the dirty particles and junk in the cart housing so it doesn't all go back in the pool.
I also bleed it 2x. Once before 1st restart, then run it for about 5sec and shutting it off and bleeding it once more. Sometimes between both bleeds, lifting the hoses, hand over hand, coaxing along any bubbles toward the pump on the intake side and doing the same on the return. In some cases I find it necessary to give it a few swift smacks to the hose, but not super hard, but a good SHAKE to release the bubbles from the corrugated ribs in the hose which slows down the flow.
Lastly, those pesky intake and return screens like to clog on the intake side from things that slip down the outside of the skimmer basket. They restrict flow too! So you have to check those from time to time or they'll plug up and let air in through the fittings. I just knocked them out with a dremel tool on mine. Sooo much better. Higher flow too.
Hope that helps.
Tip: With those Intex cartridges, nylons are your friend. Slip 2 of the cheap'o 25 cent jobbies from Walmart (2/egg) over the cartridge itself. Make one end so they're both closed toes and taut over the impeller intake hole at the bottom of the housing, helps to catch junk the filter pleats let through.
The nylons catch more than the carts do and they keep things like bugs, grass, hair and other stuff out of the pleats. So cleaning them is easier. I just keep reusing them over and over till they get holes.
Keep in mind that filter cartridges work off of the cake principle. Whereby they do not clean as well when fresh and clean, but once a thin layer of crud starts to build up, they then trap smaller and smaller particles as they filter better. I used the return line as an indicator for when to clean the filter, once the flow noticeably reduces, I clean it.
Also, due to the bad design of the filter, it likes to primarily filter on one end of the cartridge and one side of it. So by rotating it about 45 degrees as well as flipping it end over end, you can get more run time out of it between cleanings. I also lift the cartridge housing up above the water line when changing it, so as not to let water flow out freely from the pool. But, once I get the dirty cartridge pulled out, I lower it below the waterline, turning it upside down to let fresh water flow out for a moment. Then I flip it back around, finishing the swap and buttoning it back down.
Thus rinsung out all the dirty particles and junk in the cart housing so it doesn't all go back in the pool.
I also bleed it 2x. Once before 1st restart, then run it for about 5sec and shutting it off and bleeding it once more. Sometimes between both bleeds, lifting the hoses, hand over hand, coaxing along any bubbles toward the pump on the intake side and doing the same on the return. In some cases I find it necessary to give it a few swift smacks to the hose, but not super hard, but a good SHAKE to release the bubbles from the corrugated ribs in the hose which slows down the flow.
Lastly, those pesky intake and return screens like to clog on the intake side from things that slip down the outside of the skimmer basket. They restrict flow too! So you have to check those from time to time or they'll plug up and let air in through the fittings. I just knocked them out with a dremel tool on mine. Sooo much better. Higher flow too.
Hope that helps.
Thanks ! Lots of good info! I really like the the nylon idea! I had heard that, but I was told to put it on the skimmer bucket in the pool. It really didn't help much. I will try it on the filter now!
Also let me add, I have been putting in 5 of the 1" chlorine tabs inky skimmer. I don't think I want to do the SWG this year. The five tabs every few days has kept my chlorine between 3 & 5. Is this ok as long as my numbers stay good?
Is your pump running 24/7? If not, you should not put the tabs in the skimmer.
It is fine to use the tabs if you understand what they are adding. Here is the problem though, on the low end lets say your pool needs 2ppm of FC added every day from the pucks to maintain the correct FC level ... that equates to also adding 1.3ppm of CYA every day {use the bottom of poolcalculator for trichlor}
So, in 30 days, you will have maintained your FC and added 39ppm of CYA ... see how this is not sustainable?
It is fine to use the tabs if you understand what they are adding. Here is the problem though, on the low end lets say your pool needs 2ppm of FC added every day from the pucks to maintain the correct FC level ... that equates to also adding 1.3ppm of CYA every day {use the bottom of poolcalculator for trichlor}
So, in 30 days, you will have maintained your FC and added 39ppm of CYA ... see how this is not sustainable?
Yes my pump runs 24/7. So how do I know how much and how often to put in the tablets? Do I test everyday?
You should be testing and adding bleach everyday if you do not understand the tablets. Or use the SWG.
y_not
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mimidjets said:
Thank you mimidjets!
Yes, I tried the skimmer, it doesn't work worth beans in the Intex skimmer. Too much just flows around the outside of the skimmer basket, into the suction inlet hose that leads to the pump, thus bypassing the nylons & defeating the purpose. It's just a horrible, horrible design. Everything about Intex's setup is awful!! Except for the pool itself, that is actually all built quite well really and I can't fault them much in that area at all.
The other problem is if you put the nylons over the outer skimmer bucket that the basket sits in that hangs on the side of the wall, the nylons get sucked into the suction line on the bottom of the skimmer, making a big tangled mess that's hard to undo and just rips the sock anyway. GRRR
I even tried making a screen for it, no luck. I could have redesigned it and made it work better, but there's still the problem of all the dirt congregating to that one little spot where the suction hose is at the bottom.
All one big FAIL!! Haha.
Hope it works out for you. If you have any questions on it, just post back.
As I posted that from my phone, it may not all make complete & total sense. :blah: