Can Anyone Confirm this is the Temperature Sensor

Lawtyger

Well-known member
Mar 11, 2016
124
Tampa, Florida
Hello,

Can someone confirm the first picture bellow is the temperature sensor in my Hayward HeatPro heater (Model HP13023646)?

I am almost certain it is, and the wiring runs back to the NPEC-003 Control Board and the water sensor (WS) part of the board.

The thing that is throwing me off is the the sensor is in the end of the PVC pipe and the replacements I am seeing and the YouTube videos I found use a different “looking” type of sensor (HPX2169) look like the replacement pictured below. I would prefer not to drill another whole in the PVC if I can just replace the sensor in the end of the PVC tube. Hence, why I want to be doubly sure I am not missing something here and that is the temperature sensor.

Temperature on the heater display is reading 113 degrees but pool water is 70 degrees (OmniLogic app says that for both pool and spa). Hence why I think the sensor may have gone bad on this 2016 Hayward heater.

Appreciate any thoughts in advance. P&P said it would be $350 to come out and take a look plus parts and I’m feeling fairly confident I can try replacing this first myself.

IMG_4E3C02AC-6077-4CD3-B0B1-4590F27D7827.jpegIMG_9083.jpegIMG_9085.jpegFFC191A6-2859-4AB7-A2A6-100279C51087.jpeg
 
The part sits in a temperature sensor well.

It should be easy to get out.

The sensor just pushes into the well and is held in place by the end clip.

The sensor is not in the water.

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Remove this retainer cap and the sensor should slip right out.

1740966269670-png.630527
 

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I have a HP13023646 Hayward HeatPro.
The actual model is HP21404T.

WATER SENSOR SMX306000024


1740968081539.png

WATER SENSOR

SMX306000024




 

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With the Water Sensor connected, test at the red dots for DC volts.

Disconnect the Water Sensor and test again at the red dots for DC volts.

Test the disconnected Water Sensor by measuring ohms (Resistance) at the blue dots (Ends of the wires).

1741013621457.png
 
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VU = Volts DC Unconnected.

VC = Volts DC Connected.

We can use this formula for VC = VU(R/(R + 4800)).

Example, based on VU = 5 volts DC, we can use this formula for VC = 5.0(R/(R + 4800)).

If the temperature of the water is 75 degrees, that is 4.935 k ohm or 4,935 ohms from the chart.

Or, you can use the measured resistance of the temperature sensor to calculate the expected voltage connected.

VC = 5.0(4935/(4935 + 4800)).

VC = 2.53 volts DC.
 
JamesW, actually may have some good news all thanks to you. Received the new water temperature sensor, installed it and the water temperature was accurate again (i.e. not reading 104). Started heating the spa and have gone from 69 degrees to 85 degrees so far. Pretty happy at the moment.

But, I am concerned that in my previous troubleshooting I may have changed some of the settings behind the loc screen like AFF, PHL, SHL, CAL, CAD, db1 and H6d. You you or anyone else seeing this post know what the regular defaults should be?

Here is what I have determined so far:
AFF - usually between 2 and 4
PHL - “set by the manufacturer” so no clue what it should be
SHL - default 104
CAL - adjust the displayed water temperature (which I have done)
CAD - “default should be left as it” but I am not sure what it was, lol, or if I even changed it
db1 - “default settings should not be changed”
H6D - “default settings should be maintained”

Anyway, since starting this thread the spa has heated to 92 degrees so maybe all is fine with the settings as they are 🤷‍♂️

UPDATE - Spa heated to 101 degrees as it normally did in the past. To error messages triggered so the settings currently in place for the above items didn’t prevent the heater from heating as normal like in the past.
 
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