Calcium hardness super high - planning to drain this weekend but will be on-going issue

[JenniferMarie90]

Hi friends, this is year 2 with my gunnite pool (pebblesheen coating on top). I tested for calcium hardness for the first time in a few months and its pretty darn high (1300) which isn't surprising because the water here in vegas is hard. I'm planning to drain a portion of my pool. Pool math is saying 55%, am I going to have to do this every year? Is there anything else can I do to try and keep the CH lower? I'm not seeing anything visually with the CH being high, it just isn't in the ideal range on pool math. Also, I haven't yet drained any portion of my pool so with pebblesheen, do you drain whatever % you're planning to, and then once you're done refill immediately? Thank you!

 

[mknauss]

If your CH is at 1300 ppm, you need to do a full drain. If not using softened water for make up water, your CH will rise by 400-500 ppm each year. So you will need to do a full drain every 18-24 months, most likely.

If your CH is really at 1300 ppm, you would have significant waterline scale and likely scale on the pool surfaces. If you have neither, then your CH is not likely that high. Check your testing process.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If I recall correctly, you have white waterline tile, so it may be hard to see any scaling.

Do you have a whole-home water softener? If so, get a line plumbed to use for top-offs of the pool.

Another option is a portable RV water softener connected to your fill line, but they're a bit labor-intensive as they require somewhat frequent manual flushing.

 

[cowboycasey]

I have all my water hose faucets run to my water softener as we have hard water also.. You all in NV have it worse than we do..

 

[JenniferMarie90]

If your CH is at 1300 ppm, you need to do a full drain. If not using softened water for make up water, your CH will rise by 400-500 ppm each year. So you will need to do a full drain every 18-24 months, most likely.

If your CH is really at 1300 ppm, you would have significant waterline scale and likely scale on the pool surfaces. If you have neither, then your CH is not likely that high. Check your testing process.

I’ll have to retest this weekend but that’s what I thought it was. My tile is light in color but I don’t see or feel any white residue. I tried to ask the PB to do softened water and he wouldn’t and husband absolutely will not plumb the auto fill to the soften either sigh so lemme retest this weekend and come back. I’m hoping I don’t have to drain every year!

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

A solar cover will help reduce evaporation a bit, but softened water is your only hope.

 

[JenniferMarie90]

A solar cover will help reduce evaporation a bit, but softened water is your only hope.

Is that something I can truck in?

 

[cowboycasey]

Connect this or another water softener at the auto water level pipe... It will reduce the CH in the fill water and probably be cheaper in the long run than draining the pool 50% to 75% every year..

https://smile.amazon.com/Aquasure-Harmony-Softener-Efficiency-Digital/dp/B07F175C2R

 

[proavia]

Does your house already have a water softener - possibly in the garage?
If so, where is the water softener located in relation to your autofill or autofill shut off valve?

Pics would be helpful.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Is that something I can truck in?

It's not really practical. When you drain and refill, your CH of 250 will be at the lower end of the acceptable range. As water evaporates, the calcium stays in the pool. Your autofill tops off with the CH 250 tap water, which introduces more calcium into the pool. This cycle continues until CH levels become unmanageable. In the desert, your water level can drop .25 to .50 inch per day. In your pool, that probably equates to 75-150 gallons per day.

Is there a reason your husband doesn't want to run a line from the softener? Maybe he just needs some convincing?

 

[JenniferMarie90]

Does your house already have a water softener - possibly in the garage?
If so, where is the water softener located in relation to your autofill or autofill shut off valve?

Pics would be helpful.

I’ll try to take some pics!

 

[JenniferMarie90]

If your CH is at 1300 ppm, you need to do a full drain. If not using softened water for make up water, your CH will rise by 400-500 ppm each year. So you will need to do a full drain every 18-24 months, most likely.

If your CH is really at 1300 ppm, you would have significant waterline scale and likely scale on the pool surfaces. If you have neither, then your CH is not likely that high. Check your testing process.

Ok friends I retested today and I see the issue. I can’t seem to get the water to change from red to blue at all. This is after 30 drops of R-0012

 

[proavia]

I’ll try to take some pics!

Or even a pen/pencil drawng showing the outline of the house and where the water softener and autofill are located. Take a pic of that and upload here.

 

[proavia]

Ok friends I retested today and I see the issue. I can’t seem to get the water to change from red to blue at all. This is after 30 drops of R-0013

I hope you meant R-0012.
Are you using a Speedstir or similar?

 

[JenniferMarie90]

It's not really practical. When you drain and refill, your CH of 250 will be at the lower end of the acceptable range. As water evaporates, the calcium stays in the pool. Your autofill tops off with the CH 250 tap water, which introduces more calcium into the pool. This cycle continues until CH levels become unmanageable. In the desert, your water level can drop .25 to .50 inch per day. In your pool, that probably equates to 75-150 gallons per day.

Is there a reason your husband doesn't want to run a line from the softener? Maybe he just needs some convincing?

Well I found out our hose is connected to our water soften so if I refill with our hose we should be good but our auto fill is not…

 

[JenniferMarie90]

I hope you meant R-0012.
Are you using a Speedstir or similar?

Sorry yes R-0012 and no I’m just swirling. I just did a test on my sink water and the reaction worked appropriately

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Did you stop at 30 drops? 30 drops x 25 (multiplier) gets you to CH 750 [with a 10 mL water sample]. Earlier you reported CH 1300 (52 drops). If it's that high, save your reagents and move on to the drain/refill.

What did the sink sample test at?

Some outdoor spigots may not be tied to the softener. If you plan to use the hose, test that source to confirm it's softened water.

 

[JenniferMarie90]

Did you stop at 30 drops? 30 drops x 25 (multiplier) gets you to CH 750 [with a 10 mL water sample]. Earlier you reported CH 1300 (52 drops). If it's that high, save your reagents and move on to the drain/refill.

What did the sink sample test at?

Some outdoor spigots may not be tied to the softener. If you plan to use the hose, test that source to confirm it's softened water.

I did stop after 30 because I thought it was wasting but I can try again. The sink tested at 25; so one drop to turn blue but it was more like half a drop and it was immediately blue. Good idea to check the hose! I’ll do that today too. I’m working nights this week so I have some time to mess around with this stuff during the day.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

If you could top off with fill at 25 CH, you may not have to drain/refill for years, if ever.

A full drain/refill with non-softened water will get you down to a CH of 250. Don't try to use softened water for a full refill.

 

[proavia]

If your house came with a water softener loop, chances are the outside hose bibs are hard water. And sometimes with a water softener loop, the cold water in the kitchen sink may also be hard water.

If the house didn't have a water softener loop installed when the house was built, chances are that anywhere passed the entry point of water pipes entering the house immediately after the water meter the water is softened - including any downstream exterior hose bibs.