33k gallon vinyl pool, SWG and sand filter. Recently I added a ton of calcium hypochlorite to treat an algae outbreak after my VS pump cut off for 2 days following a power blip. I've done this previously successfully however this time I guess I hit a break point and turned the pool milky white. I did a calcium test and stopped counting after I reached the 1K ppm mark. Other than being unsightly is this a problem? Will the issue eventually correct itself after many rains and fills? Trying to avoid draining my pool because I recently did this to correct a high CYA issue and I don't want to have to add a bunch of sand, etc back in. But if this can cause big problems I need to correct it.
Calcium advice needed
- Thread starter aralph
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,330
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
It can be a problem, for scale especially. Not only to the pool surfaces but your SWG cell itself. You'll have to really watch your pH and TA levels and keep them lower to help compensate. Water top-offs alone won't help. You'll have to lower the waster level in advance of a heavy rain and/or simply exchange water yourself (again) I'm afraid. CH, like CYA, doesn't dilute, so it needs to be removed to lower it.
Here's the odd thing. My CH test is very inconclusive. When I add the Taylor R-0011L calcium indicator liquid the water BARELY turns pink (not red). I add the R-0012 hardness regent and it never turns blue. Just goes from light pink to white. Wondering if I need to make a trip to the pool store for a test.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,330
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Have you read the various CH testing options and notes outlined here: Calcium Hardness - Trouble Free Pool
Some of those methods may help. Also make sure your reagents aren't too old.
Some of those methods may help. Also make sure your reagents aren't too old.
I notice a few things. First is that it doesn't sound like you are following the SLAM Process. You didn't hit any kind of "break point", you just kind of blindly dumped in chlorine. You should consider reading the article.
Second, something was already off with your water chemistry if you got an algae outbreak with your pump being offline for only two days. If it happened that quickly then you were already on the verge of an outbreak. Are you following the FC/CYA Levels?
Next, if you really have 1000+ CH then you need to replace some water. If you didn't have an SWG you might be able to get away with it, but calcium buildup on the plates is a real pain to deal with. Which is one reason I would suggest sticking with sodium hypochlorite next time. And by "next time" I mean now since you have cloudy water and need to implement the SLAM Process.
Second, something was already off with your water chemistry if you got an algae outbreak with your pump being offline for only two days. If it happened that quickly then you were already on the verge of an outbreak. Are you following the FC/CYA Levels?
Next, if you really have 1000+ CH then you need to replace some water. If you didn't have an SWG you might be able to get away with it, but calcium buildup on the plates is a real pain to deal with. Which is one reason I would suggest sticking with sodium hypochlorite next time. And by "next time" I mean now since you have cloudy water and need to implement the SLAM Process.
Repeat the test with 10 ml water, 10 drops R-0010, 5 drops of R-0011 and count each drop R-0012 as 25. And if the color is still too pale, add another drop of R-0011. I suspect what you see as going clear is going blue but the color's not deep enough to see.
If you still come up with 1000+, then some water replacement is in your future.
If you still come up with 1000+, then some water replacement is in your future.
No, I followed the SLAM process and got rid of the algae. My mistake was using Cal Hypo instead of bleach (bleach has become impossible to find in my area due to COVID). Also I follow the CYA/FC chart. My CYA was 50 and I never let my FC fall below 5. My pool is in direct sunlight all day in the deep south. I've been following the TFP method for several years now. Just swapped over to SWG this winter.
That worked. I added 9 drops of 11 to get to blue. Still multiply by 10? If so, that means my CH is only 90, which means it isn't the problem.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Re-read the test procedure Richard posted. The R-0011L is the indicator. Did you add 9 drops of R-0012?? Include the drops you added to begin. What size water sample did you use?
Read it again, the r-0012 is drops x 25...not r-0011 (you were only supposed to use 5, possibly 6).
Sorry my mistake. 9 drops of R-12. By the way, Richard said use 5 drops of 11 (if using 10ml), however the link Tex sent me says add 3 drops. Does it make a difference? Do I need to re-test with 3 drops f 11 instead of 5? I also see that I multiply by 25 now, so if I did it correctly, that means I'm at 225 ppm.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
You can add a drop or two more R-0011L to make the color contrast more intense. That is the procedure Richard describes (and what I use).
Ok thanks so I'm at 225 ppm which is in range. Any other idea why my water is hazy white? I went on vacation last week immediately following the algae bloom. I hired a neighbor to come over and test/shock around the clock. My CYA measured 50 before I left, however when I returned it was down to 30 (I drained/added water before I left to try to lower CYA to make it easier to treat). So he was keeping the FC at 20. He said the pool become very clear right before it turned white (the day I returned). So I immediately assumed CH was the culprit.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 49,330
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
- May 3, 2014
- 59,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Liquid chlorine would not turn the pool white unless it had additives. What was used to chlorinate?
If necessary, consider adding DE to your sand filter to help clear the pool water.
If necessary, consider adding DE to your sand filter to help clear the pool water.
Cal hypo. I've always used liquid chlorine but it's impossible to find here now due to COVID.
Cal Hypo turning a pool milky white is fairly commonplace. Simply operating normally will cause the calcium to return to solution and for your water to clear up......usually in 2-4 days.
- May 3, 2014
- 59,690
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Cal Hypo can cloud your water. Especially if your TA and / or the pH is high. It should clear in time.
Be sure it was pure Cal Hypo, no additives.
Be sure it was pure Cal Hypo, no additives.
This is the deep end. I can see to bottom of shallow end, and part way down the slope, or approx 4-5 ft.