Builder forgot to connect the overflow drain

VST

Well-known member
Feb 11, 2024
78
Florida, United States
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Hi, finished a new pool build last month and just learned that the builder forgot to connect the overflow drain I had requested. Seems we just have a dead pipe that leads from the back of our deck to the dirt beside the pool. It was supposed to connect to the top of the skimmer, but the subs forgot to do it

In Florida, it rains a lot, particularly in the summer. It's been raining all day today and the water level is 1 inch from the coping undersurface. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow too. Should I drain a couple of inches or is it not a big deal for the pool to fill up? Reading some people say the coping can be damaged. This seems like it's going to be another maintenance hassle because of the builder's oversight.
 
It would be best to drain some before it reached the coping.
How is your system set up to drain? do you have a drain line at the equipment pad?
There's a hose bib at the equipment site. How do I use that? Just open the spigot while the pump is on like normal? Do I need to change any valve positions?
 
Have you considered a submersible pump. That is the preferred way to drain
However, if you hose bib is after the pump and before the filter, you can connect a hose to it and put the hose to drain in a safe place.
Then open it up while pump is on. I will take a little longer as you are draining through the diameter of the hose.
You can draw suction from either the main drain or the skimmer or both - just watch that you do not drain below the skimmer opening.
 
Alternatively, I was thinking i could just run my deck jets with the pump at a moderate speed (around 2000 rpm). That tends to cause about 0.5 to 1 in in surface water losses over 24 hrs.
 
You get about 30 inches of rain from June to Sept, and it's fast and furious. In the days it takes to lower 4 inches with the deck jets, you'll get more.

Is the overflow on the contract ?
 
Not really. It was a verbal addition half way through the project. Not sure I want to have the deck ripped up to add a drain pipe to the top of the smoker like he had intended. Is there an easier option? Neighbors here who used different builders don't have an auto drain either. I'm surprised. Not sure why builders here feel it's unnecessary.

Is the main concern debris from the deck entering the pool when it overflows or is it the coping being undermined? In other words, the coping is 2 to 3 inches high. Do I have that extra margin to play with or do I need to drain before it reaches the undersurface of the coping?
 
Not sure why builders here feel it's unnecessary.
Because they won't be the ones draining it all the time.
Is the main concern debris from the deck entering the pool when it overflows or is it the coping being undermined?
The coping and ultimately the patio being undermined. The patio will likely contribute some runoff to the pool. Even if it's all sloped away, a heavy rain may push a little uphill faster than it drains on a slight downhill.
Is there an easier option?
Do you have automation ? You could add another valve at the pad to waste and watch the water level from afar with a ring type camera, and use the automation app to turn on the drain valve.
 
Because they won't be the ones draining it all the time.

The coping and ultimately the patio being undermined. The patio will likely contribute some runoff to the pool. Even if it's all sloped away, a heavy rain may push a little uphill faster than it drains on a slight downhill.

Do you have automation ? You could add another valve at the pad to waste and watch the water level from afar with a ring type camera, and use the automation app to turn on the drain valve.
I have cameras, but have a cartridge filter. I'm new to this, but from what I understand, turning a valve to waste isn't an option when you have a cartridge filter. I have a hose bib between the pump and the filter. My builder said it would drain 2 inches in 30 minutes. He used that as a point for the overflow drain being unnecessary. I went out at midnight last night in the cold rain and it drained 0.2 inches in 30 minutes.

With this hose bib set up, is there potentio al for automation to help?
 

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builder said it would drain 2 inches in 30 minutes. He used that as a point for the overflow drain being unnecessary.
The overflow manages itself and using the hose bib will get old QUICK. Like when you have to do it 3 times in a week and a half. By then, the PB is long gone.

Another option is to use a sprinkler valve and turn the hose bib into a new sprinkler zone. When needed you run the zone (with the pool pump running) for the time needed.
I went out at midnight last night in the cold rain and it drained 0.2 inches in 30 minutes
But. But. But. The PB said 2 inches in 30 mins. :laughblue:
but have a cartridge filter. I'm new to this, but from what I understand, turning a valve to waste isn't an option when you have a cartridge filter
You would have to add the automated valve. I added a traditional valve to be able to (manually) vac/drain to waste I stead of through my carts.
 

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I have cameras, but have a cartridge filter. I'm new to this, but from what I understand, turning a valve to waste isn't an option when you have a cartridge filter.
Show us a picture of your equipment pad and a photo of the area from the pump to the filter.
A 1.5” or 2” line Tee’d into the line before your filter and then attached with a flexible hose. The hose has to be laid out to an area to drain.

Alternatively, as indicated before, buy a submersible pump for under $100 plop that in the shallow end when you need to drain after heavy rains.
 
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Alternatively, as indicated before, buy a submersible pump for under $100 plop that in the shallow end when you need to drain after heavy rains.
I'm with ya, but Florida. That might be 3 times a day some days. 🤣

I guess. If I was retired I'd probably be happy to have something to fiddle with. At the moment it would drive me nuts.
 
Not really. It was a verbal addition half way through the project. Not sure I want to have the deck ripped up to add a drain pipe to the top of the smoker like he had intended. Is there an easier option? Neighbors here who used different builders don't have an auto drain either. I'm surprised. Not sure why builders here feel it's unnecessary.

Is the main concern debris from the deck entering the pool when it overflows or is it the coping being undermined? In other words, the coping is 2 to 3 inches high. Do I have that extra margin to play with or do I need to drain before it reaches the undersurface of the coping?
The seal between the coping and the pool wall is generally not waterproof (for very long at least) and many times the skimmer box is not sealed to the underside of the deck. Water under the decking causes damage.
 
Not really. It was a verbal addition half way through the project. Not sure I want to have the deck ripped up to add a drain pipe to the top of the smoker like he had intended. Is there an easier option? Neighbors here who used different builders don't have an auto drain either. I'm surprised. Not sure why builders here feel it's unnecessary.

Is the main concern debris from the deck entering the pool when it overflows or is it the coping being undermined? In other words, the coping is 2 to 3 inches high. Do I have that extra margin to play with or do I need to drain before it reaches the undersurface of the coping?
I live in Florida as well. While my builder was fantastic, they discouraged installing auto-drain and auto-fill. Evidently they had an issue in the past where the auto-fill got stuck, the pool had a leak, and the customers were extremely upset - even went to court. So they don't try to sell it anymore. I insisted that they install and had to sign a waiver stating that I know a situation like this could happen.

It was a fantastic decision because, as you pointed out, during rainy season in Florida you really need the auto-drain, and during the middle of summer, you really need the auto-fill - unless you like dragging a hose to the pool to top it off a couple of times a week. I recommend getting this installed to anyone installing a new pool. For me, worst case is that I have an issue and my water bill is maybe double normal for one month. Worth the risk in my opinion. Plus, I can hear the water running from my bedroom if the auto-fill is on!
 
Are you sure he did not put one it? Look for a grate set at the top of your waterline tile. Some do it that way.

Show us your equipment pad and we can show your where to add something to help you drain a bit faster that .2 in 2 hours maybe.
 
I'm sure. I spoke with him yesterday. There's a pipe that unloads onto the conservation behind my pool. The pipe passes through the concrete footer. They just forgot to attach the pipe to the pool. We snaked it and it seems to open up to dirt next to the pool

Attached is a pic of the equipment pad. You can see a hose bib between the pump and the filter. I attached a hose to it last night in the cold rain, but it wasn't effective in lowering the water level. Not even one inch in 40 minutes.

Thanks for the help

20240206_070701.jpg
 
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PS
I did add 1 to 2 inches of water last week with the hose in about 40 minutes, so not sure why the draining is so much less effective. There was a strong flow coming out of the faucet and then a steady flow coming out of the hose. The PVC pipe that the bib is attached to is 2 inches in caliber. I'm sure the hose is slowing it down some. I attached it because I wasn't sure I should dump so much water right at the equipment.
 
I did add 1 to 2 inches of water last week with the hose in about 40 minutes, so not sure why the draining is so much less effective
Because of the house water pressure. Open up every tap in the house and the pool fill will suffer in a similar way. The pool water will seek the path of least resistance which will always be the 2 inch plumbing. Only some will go out the 3/4 hose bib. You can try closing most of the return valves to send more out the hose, but leave one valve fully open so you don't dead head the pump.

If you're running a lower RPM, even less of the less flow makes it out the hose bib. Using full speed will help some as well.
 

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