Hi all new to the forum not pools though, I've owned a fairly large vinyl pool for the last 7 years with minimal issues aside from hurricane season in the south and a liner replacement. This season has been a different animal all together though. I am having an issue with extreme water bug infestation. I have no visible algea growth and all chemicals are within range aside from CH. I know sometimes algea can be near impossible to spot so last week I super shocked the pool just to be on the safe side. I have scrubbed and vacuumed to waste daily since then, but still have the bugs. Prior to shocking I was having to use insane amounts of chlorine just to have a minimal amount of FCL in pool the following day. After the shock treatment my chlorine levels appear to be under control as I have not had to add any over the last 3 days with minimal losses. I am wondering if anyone has had this issue before and may be able to point me in the right direction as my local pool stores seems to have run out of ideas. Also as stated before I am new to this so I'm sure I may be missing important information that may be required, but I am familiar enough with my pool that I should be able to fill in the blanks as needed. Thanks in advance.
Bug problem
- Thread starter Morganbertrand90
- Start date
Hi and welcome to TFP. One of the cornerstone requirements of TFP is having a proper test kit and do not rely on inconsistent test results from pool stores. Refer to Test Kits Compared. It would be good if you can post all of your recent test results, especially FC, CC and CYA.
Please read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and refer to the FC/CYA Levels to help you with the TFP methodology.
It appears you have an algae issue and your test results can verify that. With regard to the bugs, is this a seasonal thing or do you think because you have no chlorine that the bugs have congregated in your pool?
Shock in the TFP methodology is not a 1 of treatment. It may take days to rid your pool of algae and during that time you have to maintain a high FC level. Refer to the process in TFP called SLAM Process
Hope this helps you figure out your next steps and if the TFP methodology can assist you.
Please read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and refer to the FC/CYA Levels to help you with the TFP methodology.
It appears you have an algae issue and your test results can verify that. With regard to the bugs, is this a seasonal thing or do you think because you have no chlorine that the bugs have congregated in your pool?
Shock in the TFP methodology is not a 1 of treatment. It may take days to rid your pool of algae and during that time you have to maintain a high FC level. Refer to the process in TFP called SLAM Process
Hope this helps you figure out your next steps and if the TFP methodology can assist you.
Hi thanks for replying. My FCL is at 4.52 ppm and my TCL is also at 4.52 ppm which if I'm understanding the formula correctly should put my CC at 0.00 ppm. My CYA is at 68 ppm.My PH is at 7.7 and my TA is at 133ppm. All of my testing in done on a Lamotte Pro 11 digital tester. Roughly a week ago I used The SLAM method I mixed off and dumped 25lbs of Cal-Hypo in the pool and it brought my FCL up to above 10 PPM, I'm not exactly sure how high above it a my tester maxes out at 10ppm for FCL and held above that level for roughly 2 days. On the third day my FCL was at 8.95 and the fourth day it had dropped all the way down to 2.48 PPM. I added another 15lbs of shock and brought the levels back up to above 10ppm all while scrubbing daily. I was not able to vacuum as well as I would have liked until the pool cleared as the shock made it to cloudy to see anything. As far as the bugs go I get them every year but never in such high numbers and have never had this much trouble getting rid of them especially after the amount of chlorine that has gone into the pool over the last month. I use algeacide regularly as per the instructions on the bottles.
You are right at the minimum FC level for your CYA of 70. You should try to keep it at around 9-10ppm especially in the summer in hot and humid Louisiana. if your refer to the CYA chart noted above as that ensures the best level of active chlorine in your pool.
Please go to your profile settings and fill out your signature. Add your equipment and pool size, also, put the type of test kit you are using as that helps everyone when you post a question.
Thank you for that bit of information I was never told that chlorine was dependent on CYA levels. The pool company I had taking care of it previously always told me to keep the FCL at 3-5 PPM. Hopefully this will solve my bug issue. Also is the overnight chlorine loss test a guarantee if you have algea or not? I ask because I did one and had less than 1 ppm FCL loss.
If you follow the TFP methodology then one of the key tenants is to understand that CYA/FC relationship to maintain a properly sanitized pool. The other is to trust your own test results and not relay on pool store testing. The goal of the OCLT is to remove the effect of UV consuming your FC. This is from the OCLT wiki page - " If your FC level remained the same, or went down by 1.0 or less, the water is clean. There isn’t any living algae or other organic contamination in the pool."
That said, you are on the border based on your FC and CYA so it would be good to move higher in the range.
If you can keep it in the 8-10ppm range then do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test in a couple of days just to confirm your CC is 1 or less.
Based on the shock you did you were a partial SLAM Process. Using TFP methodology your SLAM level is 28ppm for a CYA of 70 (i.e. 40% of your CYA level).
Please consider downloading the app - PoolMath as you can log your test results and it will provide you recommended levels based on your pool type and volume. Furthermore there is a unique feature in the menu that is "effects of adding" so you could put in the amount of cal-hypo you used and it will give a good approximation of the increase in FC it would have reached. If you go with the premium for $9 you can create a history of your test logs, the maintenance you do, the expenses you track, etc. Well worth it. I use it almost daily.
That said, you are on the border based on your FC and CYA so it would be good to move higher in the range.
If you can keep it in the 8-10ppm range then do another Overnight Chlorine Loss Test in a couple of days just to confirm your CC is 1 or less.
Based on the shock you did you were a partial SLAM Process. Using TFP methodology your SLAM level is 28ppm for a CYA of 70 (i.e. 40% of your CYA level).
Please consider downloading the app - PoolMath as you can log your test results and it will provide you recommended levels based on your pool type and volume. Furthermore there is a unique feature in the menu that is "effects of adding" so you could put in the amount of cal-hypo you used and it will give a good approximation of the increase in FC it would have reached. If you go with the premium for $9 you can create a history of your test logs, the maintenance you do, the expenses you track, etc. Well worth it. I use it almost daily.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,942
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Your cya is high for a manually chlorinated pool.
I have a feeling you are just barely keeping a nascent algae bloom at bay.
As mentioned above slam level for your cya is a fc level of 28ppm & normal daily target is 8-10ppm. Anywhere below the minimum of 5ppm allows things to grow.
The SLAM Process is best done with liquid chlorine. Where you test & add liquid chlorine multiple times per day until u pass all 3 end of slam criteria as listed in the article.
Brushing/vacuuming daily is imperative.
If you wish to slam at a lower fc level you will need to exchange some of your water to reduce your cya. Always Follow the FC/CYA Levels
Algea likes to hide, so check light niches, ladders (a hand rail can hold gallons of stagnant water), drain covers, weir doors & throats etc.
like herman said, try the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at a higher fc level & see what your results are.
I have a feeling you are just barely keeping a nascent algae bloom at bay.
As mentioned above slam level for your cya is a fc level of 28ppm & normal daily target is 8-10ppm. Anywhere below the minimum of 5ppm allows things to grow.
The SLAM Process is best done with liquid chlorine. Where you test & add liquid chlorine multiple times per day until u pass all 3 end of slam criteria as listed in the article.
Brushing/vacuuming daily is imperative.
If you wish to slam at a lower fc level you will need to exchange some of your water to reduce your cya. Always Follow the FC/CYA Levels
Algea likes to hide, so check light niches, ladders (a hand rail can hold gallons of stagnant water), drain covers, weir doors & throats etc.
like herman said, try the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test at a higher fc level & see what your results are.
Thanks both of you for the information. I would like to add that my CYA levels where much lower before a local pool company tested my water and advised that I SLAM the water. I bought a 25lb bucket of shock from them without even looking at the ingredients (a very unintelligent oversight on my part) it was trichlor granules and from what I've read trichlor and di-chlor both increase CYA at high levels. If this is correct then that would be the reason behind my high levels of CYA. I usually run my pool around 40ppm. I have been trying to find a more cost effective way of procuring liquid chlorine beside buying cases of gallon jugs at a time with no luck, so granules were my only option at the time. One of the cons of living in such a small area.
I'm starting to see the accuracy of this. It's easy to push the most expensive product in the store as the most effective. As stated earlier never had the issues I do this year but it's been a really hot and wet summer down here in the south. So even in my head shock seemed logical to get my chlorine levels back in line and 25lbs definitely did the trick for about 2 days.
It’s ok Morgan. You were far from the first and will be FAR from the last. You know now. And knowing is half the battle. Go Joe !!!
Ok I got my chlorine levels up to 8.96PPM and did an overnight loss test that I finished up yesterday morning. My FCL was at 8.83PPM and CYA is at 65ppm. Checked again this morning and FCL is still at 8.05PPM and CC is at 0.0PPM. Haven't had rain for the last two days and I am still noticing an increasing amount of backswimmers and waterboatmen even though I spent 2 hours yesterday skimming as many out as I could. Since algea doesn't seem to be my issue following all the guidelines from earlier posts I guess I am just wondering what my next steps should be or is there a product that actually works in removing these bugs?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 13,942
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Keep your fc in the 8-10 range to see if the issue subsides. There goal is food (algae) so if you no longer have any they will likely move on.
To be clear you have no visible algae, sliminess, or cloudy water correct?
To be clear you have no visible algae, sliminess, or cloudy water correct?
None whatsoever. Water looks like glass, perfect visibility all the way down at the deep end. No leaves or sediment at the bottom of the pool either. I've pulled my ladder out to eliminate that source and have also pulled all drain and filter plates which I scrubbed with bleach just to be on the safe side. I will keep up with the higher FCL and see where it goes from here. I am running at 8.33PPM right now and just dumped 2lbs more of Cal-Hypo 73% in it to get it a little higher. I did notice though that everytime I go outside and check on the pool there are several dead bugs on the bottom of the pool so I'm really hoping this a turning point for my problem.