Broken pipe repair

[mcinlb]

Hi folks,

Our 2" spa return line broke about 1" (or less) from where it goes into concrete.

I understand the "proper" way to fix this is to break out the concrete, but that's unfortunately, cost prohibitive at the moment.
It looks like my only real option is to use a 2" slip coupling like the one below.

Would the flow reduction be significant enough to cause issues long term?
Typical water pressure before this incident runs between 8-17PSI depending on pump speed.

Thanks!

 

[PoolStored]

Would the flow reduction be significant enough to cause issues long term?

No. However, you want schedule 40 fittings. Do you have a link to this product? Can you post a picture of the location/leak? We likely can find you the correct coupler. That one too, may be too long. You can get the standard length, schedule 40 inside couplers.

 

[Lake Placid]

Nope. Use a pipe extender, or an inside slip coupling like you’ve pictured and you’ll be fine.

 

[mcinlb]

Wow.. thanks for the replies. This is what the area looks like right now. Unfortunately, the spa return line and the Jandy diverter housing broke in the incident, so I'm going to have to tear it all down, while trying to salvage as much of the original pipe as possible.

I bought 3 of these couplings: Water Source 2 in. Plastic Inside Flush Coupling WSFC200 - The Home Depot, if there's something that would work better, I'm all ears.

I saw these as well, but they look like they're designed to fit OVER the remaining pipe.. wondering if they'd be a better option for the two left pipes if I can salvage enough length. Magic Mend

Top down view- single connection coming out of the SWG



Side View


2" vertical pipes from left to right (Floor Heat, pool return, spa return)

Spa return remnants (far right pipe in the pic above)


I don't have much of an option on the spa return.. my thoughts here are.. even out what is remaining / by cutting the pipe as flush as possible and install the extension.

Pic below is with extension test fit, but before leveling spa return.



Any suggestions / tips would be very appreciated.

 

[1poolman1]

Hi folks,

Our 2" spa return line broke about 1" (or less) from where it goes into concrete.

I understand the "proper" way to fix this is to break out the concrete, but that's unfortunately, cost prohibitive at the moment.
It looks like my only real option is to use a 2" slip coupling like the one below.

Would the flow reduction be significant enough to cause issues long term?
Typical water pressure before this incident runs between 8-17PSI depending on pump speed.

Thanks!

Reduction in flow would not be measurable, but get a pipe extender and use a coupler instead of that "insider". If the break is a vertical crack, the only positive way to repair it is to cut the concrete, sorry.

 

[mcinlb]

Reduction in flow would not be measurable, but get a pipe extender and use a coupler instead of that "insider". If the break is a vertical crack, the only positive way to repair it is to cut the concrete, sorry.
View attachment 613726

The break is horizontal. All the pipe remaining (below the concrete) is sound / no vertical cracks.

 

[1poolman1]

The break is horizontal. All the pipe remaining (below the concrete) is sound / no vertical cracks.

Pipe extenders seem to work better than the fitting you show. Be sure to use a good primer and glue. If the fit is a bit loose, add glue in an even coat, let it dry and do it a couple of more times. Then add glue and put the extender into the pipe. If the extender is difficult to push all the way in, use a good amount of pressure and you will get a good seal/glue joint.
If the pipe in the ground is too small (they sometimes shrink), coat the interior with glue and use a knife to scrape a small amount of the pipe off. Try until the extender fits. Be sure to use a lot of glue when gluing it together.

 

[Lake Placid]

You’ll want to cut the pipe as square as you can before installing the extender. I’d suggest using either a dremel or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to square the pipe. A sawzall will work, but the action of the blade can tend to promote more vertical cracking in the pipe, whereas the rotary action of a cutoff wheel will not.

 

[Lake Placid]

This apparent scoring is a bit concerning. As long as your fitting seats below the scoring, you shouldn’t have any issues. But be very diligent in your investigation of that pipe that the scoring won’t become a future issue.

 

[mcinlb]

View attachment 613728
This apparent scoring is a bit concerning. As long as your fitting seats below the scoring, you shouldn’t have any issues. But be very diligent in your investigation of that pipe that the scoring won’t become a future issue.

Good eye! That must have been when the pipe was originally installed by the PB, I checked the part that broke off and it couldn't have caused the scoring..

The plot thickens.