Bringing electricity to an intex pool

ioinva

Well-known member
Jun 3, 2020
54
VA
Curious how people are keeping things safe with electricity around their pools. Conduit, post, outdoor GFCI outlet in a covered box? Any lighter weight option?

How do you ground the post? And I have read about binding the pool to equalize the voltage in case of failure -- but apparently cannot do this with a framed soft pool. So... can you even use one of the higher amps pumps in this case?

Part 2 -- same questions but if you plan to install a heat pump heater -- which runs on 220V...

For context, I have not been successful locating an electrician willing to take this on. Not sure if it's the liability or the small job...

Thanks!
 
I did not run electricity to my yard when I had my Intex pool, since I was using an Intex pump/filter with SWGC. They are equipped with GFCI plug, so I connected to a normal outlet and NEVER got in unless pump was off and unplugged. I also did not bond.

But to use other equipment with the Intex, that changes things. I’m calling @jseyfert3 to assist in this discussion since he was considering doing exactly what you are talking about.

With my new permanent AGP, I did the bonding myself. @magiteck was also helpful when I was researching how to do. But, since I am ready to upgrade from my Intex pump/filter, I’m going to have an electrician install appropriate outlets in my yard. The first guy I consulted with was an idiot - I did not like his suggestions at all. The guy that came out this past Friday to consult knew exactly what I needed and has done work for a few of my friends, so I will be going with him, and hoping his quote won’t require me to sell a kidney!
 
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That's why I stopped moving from my Intex pump to the new Hayward one. I'm actually running my Intex pump to the new 18" Hawyard filter, with 3x the media... And strongly debating making the switch before I find an electrician. (In the picture, you can see the little Intex pump elevated to reach the big filter...).

IMG-0654.JPG
 
I ran buried pvc conduit from the house edge to a 4x6 post, about 7-8 feet from the pool edge. Inside I ran two circuits using 12g THWN/THHN wire - one for a dedicated pump outlet/circuit, and another for an accessory outlet.

 
Curious how people are keeping things safe with electricity around their pools. Conduit, post, outdoor GFCI outlet in a covered box? Any lighter weight option?
All for an Intex pool? Conduit, post, outdoor GFCI outlet is what I have, as the Intex power cord would not reach an outlet at the desired location of the pool in our yard. I dug the trench and hired out an electrician to run the conduit, wires, and outlets.
full


The conduit ran from the break box downstairs, out under the deck, to a separate set of outlets I also had him install under the deck for whatever I may need them for, and from there down into the ground.
full


I had him put a quad outlet in. Each duplex receptacle is on a separate 20 A circuit. They were mounted in a heavy duty outdoor rated covered box. This fit the big Intex GFCI plug with some simple sawing on the bottom for the cord.
full


Unfortunately even this isn't enough outlets. It's really hard to overinstall outlets. As seen above, the Intex plug takes up an entire duplex, leaving two outlets. Then I got two Intex pool lights and a Aquabot Mini Rover Jr...suddenly I have to switch between the cleaner and the lights!
full


So, bottom line, don't be afraid to install more outlets, especially if you think you'll get some Intex pool lights (amazing if you want to night swim!) or a robotic pool cleaner.

As to a lighter weight option, if the pool is close enough you can simply plug it into an outlet on the side of your house.

How do you ground the post?
You don't ground the post. At least in the case of mine, there's nothing metallic exposed. If it was, it would be grounded via the ground wire, as all metal electrical cases have to be.

And I have read about binding the pool to equalize the voltage in case of failure -- but apparently cannot do this with a framed soft pool. So... can you even use one of the higher amps pumps in this case?
Part 2 -- same questions but if you plan to install a heat pump heater -- which runs on 220V...
First off, I'm not an expert, if you do anything I suggest hiring out to an electrician if possible, though it sounds tricky. Secondly talk to your local inspector. If you do it yourself, get a permit, they will come out and inspect your work and ensure it's done to code.

So, I did exchange a couple of emails with my local inspector, as I had some plans to upgrade things as @kellyfair mentioned. The summary I got from my inspector was that Intex pools are considered "storable" pools per the NEC, and as such they are exempted from ground bonding requirements "permanent" pools (hard-wall or inground pools). To meet this exception they have to have certain safety features, among them the GFCI plug end, a long cord (26') to discourage the use of extension cords, and double insulated pumps or other equipment. If you look at your Intex pool pump, the label will say "for use with storable pools only." Regular pool pumps are not double insulated, and my inspector said that if a regular pool pump or other equipment not rated for use with a storable pool was used, then the pool was now considered permanent and must be bonded as a permanent pool per the NEC.

Now typical hard wall metal pools require a buried bonding wire surrounding the pool, connected to the pool at four locations, plus connected to all pool equipment (motor casings, etc), and connected to a water bonding electrode. Hard wall resin pools are similar except no connection to the pool in four locations since the pool is non-conductive.

Here's where it gets a bit annoying. The Intex pools are made up of a lot of metal tubes, 54 in the case of my pool IIRC, all connected by non-conductive plastic pieces. The inspector said by email that all metal pieces would have to be connected to the bonding grid...so I'd have to make 54 connections to the pool, connecting all the pieces to each other and the surrounding ground bond wire. Again I'd recommend contacting your local inspector, as these types of pools are not well defined in the NEC so I could see some inspectors treating it more like a hard-walled resin pool and not requiring all the tubes to be bonded.

I was planning to upgrade to a variable speed pump, bigger filter, gas pool heater, and a SWCG, but some things happened and plans changed, so that's a task for next year now. I did have some ideas on how to bond the metal tubes starting to form, but hadn't come up with any final plans before our plans changed for this year.
 
All for an Intex pool? Conduit, post, outdoor GFCI outlet is what I have, as the Intex power cord would not reach an outlet at the desired location of the pool in our yard. I dug the trench and hired out an electrician to run the conduit, wires, and outlets.
full


The conduit ran from the break box downstairs, out under the deck, to a separate set of outlets I also had him install under the deck for whatever I may need them for, and from there down into the ground.
full


I had him put a quad outlet in. Each duplex receptacle is on a separate 20 A circuit. They were mounted in a heavy duty outdoor rated covered box. This fit the big Intex GFCI plug with some simple sawing on the bottom for the cord.
full


Unfortunately even this isn't enough outlets. It's really hard to overinstall outlets. As seen above, the Intex plug takes up an entire duplex, leaving two outlets. Then I got two Intex pool lights and a Aquabot Mini Rover Jr...suddenly I have to switch between the cleaner and the lights!
full


So, bottom line, don't be afraid to install more outlets, especially if you think you'll get some Intex pool lights (amazing if you want to night swim!) or a robotic pool cleaner.

As to a lighter weight option, if the pool is close enough you can simply plug it into an outlet on the side of your house.


You don't ground the post. At least in the case of mine, there's nothing metallic exposed. If it was, it would be grounded via the ground wire, as all metal electrical cases have to be.



First off, I'm not an expert, if you do anything I suggest hiring out to an electrician if possible, though it sounds tricky. Secondly talk to your local inspector. If you do it yourself, get a permit, they will come out and inspect your work and ensure it's done to code.

So, I did exchange a couple of emails with my local inspector, as I had some plans to upgrade things as @kellyfair mentioned. The summary I got from my inspector was that Intex pools are considered "storable" pools per the NEC, and as such they are exempted from ground bonding requirements "permanent" pools (hard-wall or inground pools). To meet this exception they have to have certain safety features, among them the GFCI plug end, a long cord (26') to discourage the use of extension cords, and double insulated pumps or other equipment. If you look at your Intex pool pump, the label will say "for use with storable pools only." Regular pool pumps are not double insulated, and my inspector said that if a regular pool pump or other equipment not rated for use with a storable pool was used, then the pool was now considered permanent and must be bonded as a permanent pool per the NEC.

Now typical hard wall metal pools require a buried bonding wire surrounding the pool, connected to the pool at four locations, plus connected to all pool equipment (motor casings, etc), and connected to a water bonding electrode. Hard wall resin pools are similar except no connection to the pool in four locations since the pool is non-conductive.

Here's where it gets a bit annoying. The Intex pools are made up of a lot of metal tubes, 54 in the case of my pool IIRC, all connected by non-conductive plastic pieces. The inspector said by email that all metal pieces would have to be connected to the bonding grid...so I'd have to make 54 connections to the pool, connecting all the pieces to each other and the surrounding ground bond wire. Again I'd recommend contacting your local inspector, as these types of pools are not well defined in the NEC so I could see some inspectors treating it more like a hard-walled resin pool and not requiring all the tubes to be bonded.

I was planning to upgrade to a variable speed pump, bigger filter, gas pool heater, and a SWCG, but some things happened and plans changed, so that's a task for next year now. I did have some ideas on how to bond the metal tubes starting to form, but hadn't come up with any final plans before our plans changed for this year.
That is exactly the logic I am starting to see. Intex pools are nice and they have pumps that seem to be quite well adapted to what they do, but once one starts to go outside their ecosystem, it becomes a huge liability. That is also why, I think, I have not heard back from the electricians I called.

My pool is just under the cut-off for needing to draw a permit, but just barely so. Permit or not, safety is still a concern. I will still add a protected outlet to the pool, but will stick to the Intex ecosystem for now, just with the larger filter.... Bummer. I was SO excited about my dual speed 1HP Hayward pump...
 
I went through this same thought process. I wanted to heat the pool, but in the end, decided it would be too many gymnastics to get it done. My pool required a permit here. I went with solar panels and a cover. Seems to get the pool comfortable quicker but it won't extend the swim season.
For some reason, they make plug and play Intex pool heaters in Canada only. They are not available in the US.
 

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So, my quote came in. They have to do approximately 60 feet from side of house where panel is located, under fence and to pool.

5BD4FBE9-85CA-48AA-A72E-47B013CAD2D7.jpeg
 
So, my quote came in. They have to do approximately 60 feet from side of house where panel is located, under fence and to pool.

View attachment 348384
Is that for just one circuit? If so, do you have another existing outlet within 20 feet of the pool?

Not sure about Tampa but here I had to have a circuit for the pump, and an accessory outlet on a separate circuit.

At your distance, it’s probably $100 of wire (per circuit), $15 for the breaker and GFCI outlet, $50 for the timer, $50 for the post and $100 for conduit/fittings.

So figure about $1200 of that is labor.

$200 to rent a gas powered trencher (high estimate) and $1000 for the work seems high to me. But it is a contractors market, and there’s something to be said about just getting it done!
 
I do have another outlet for the robot, so I’m fine with just the SWG and pump here (with timer). I dont need or want a heater. I think part of the labor issue is having to go under the fence and around a corner - it’s going to be a real pain. I think it is more like 70 feet In total.

And it’s 50,000 degrees outside, of course.

I have NO desire to do any part of this myself! Burying the bonding wire just about did me in - my back still hurts, and I still have a ton of landscaping stuff to do.

Anyway, I’m on a waiting list, which is fine because I’m going out of town in a couple of weeks, so I will just wait until I get back.
 
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