Brand New Pool Owner SWG TA question

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A

ADHD426

0
May 1, 2018
21
Bakersfield, CA
So I put in a pool at the end of last summer, beginning of fall. I am just starting the SWG, I used chlorine to keep it somewhat in level for the off season. I started the SWG a week ago, pentair IC40, and Sta-Rite S8M150 cartridge filter. My pools is plaster with pebble, approximately 22-25K gallons.

Here are my latest test results using the K-2006c:
Free Chlorine: 3ppm
Combined: 0
CH:250
CYA: 70
TA: 80
pH:7.6
Phosphates: 200 (Phosphate level came from the pool store, I don't have that test in my kit.)

My TA seems high, I am a novice but the only issue I can see is that I have 2-3 small spots of algae that creep up in spots where my pool sweep can't get to, and I haven't been very good at hand brushing them. Other than that the water looks great. Should I worry about the higher TA and Phosphates?

Andrew
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

I am worried about the phosphates ... but only from the stand point that it means that you are likely trusting a pool store to test your water and not using one of the Recommended FAS-DPD test kits.

Any sign of algae is bad in that it means your FC level has not been maintained high enough. Recommend you get a good test kit and then follow the SLAM Process process to eliminate the algae. Then maintain the correct FC level for your CYA level according to the [FC/CYA][/FC/CYA].

There is really no reason to actively worry about TA (or phosphates for that matter).

Beyond the above, your salt level may be a little low. Your CYA is a little low and your FC is a little low.
 
Thanks, I edited my above post, I just got the K-2006c and did the testing. It didn't come with phosphate test so I will have to do that later, my original post shows the test results I got with the 2006-C, they are here as well. Does that change your recommendation at all? Thanks again.

Here are my latest test results using the K-2006c:
Free Chlorine: 3ppm
Combined: 0
CH:250
CYA: 70
TA: 80
pH:7.6
Phosphates: 200* (Phosphate level came from the pool store, I don't have that in my kit).
 
Ignore phosphates. They're pretty much harmless as long as you keep your chlorine at the correct levels.

TA is a "magic" number. As long as it's at or above 50 and your pH isn't falling, you're fine. :)
 
Andrew,

You made the right choice in coming here for help. Follow the advice the experts have to offer and you will be swimming in sparkling water.

It may be helpful to those providing you with guidance if you complete your signature with specs on your pool and equipment. More info on what's required here: What we need to know to answer your questions

Welcome and good luck,

Mike.
 
I added the info to my signature. If I slam the pool, how long will it take for the chlorine to come back down so my kids can swim? I only get algae in 3 small spots where the sweep can't get to, near the top of the water on a top step, and two corners. The spots are very small when they do show up I just sweep them. With such a little amount is it still necessary to slam?
 
If you can see algae, then there is likely much more that you can't see and are not aware of.

The SLAM Process process is a process not a 1 time chlorine addition. It takes as long as it takes to pass the 3 criteria to stop. Sounds like your would be quick.

Then maintain adequate FC levels at all times!!!

It is safe to swim up to the shock FC level listed in the FC/CYA chart.
 
Ok I want to make sure I have the process right to SLAM. Before I start get my pH between 7.2-7.5. If my CYA is 70 I want to get the FC to 28ppm, test every 2 hours and make sure it stays at 28ppm. According to pool math, I need to add 1143oz of 6% bleach.

Questions:
1) What RPM should I run my pump at during the SLAM?
2) Confirming that my kids can swim during the SLAM as long as my FC is 28ppm or less?
 
Correct. Lower pH, then maintain FC level for your CYA level.

1. You just need the water moving. 1000+ RPM
2. Yes, although it is better if you just get the SLAM complete and then start swimming. Doing both at the same time will just slow the SLAM. Even at shock FC level, your pool is less harsh than a public indoor pool with 0 CYA and 2ppm of FC.
 

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I would ... no sunlight to burn off the FC.

Initially you would not need to wait 2 hours. You could add chlorine up to shock level. Test and add more if needed after 30+ minutes. If you are not seeing a drop over that short a time, start waiting longer between testing and adding.

I would think you could get a couple tests in tonight.
 
jblizzle said:
I would ... no sunlight to burn off the FC.

Initially you would not need to wait 2 hours. You could add chlorine up to shock level. Test and add more if needed after 30+ minutes. If you are not seeing a drop over that short a time, start waiting longer between testing and adding.

I would think you could get a couple tests in tonight.
Click to expand...



Ok so I shot a little high. I'm at 35ppm right now. I didn't pay attention to jug size, pool math was for 96oz, and my jugs were 112oz. Am I in any danger? It's been about 45 min since I initially put all the bleach in.
 
Sounds like a good idea. Hopefully you pass the OCLT tonight and you are done. Make sure you scrub really well where you often see algae while the FC is up at shock level.
 
I just tested and was at 25.5 so I put more bleach in it to get back up to 28ish. Question on the CYA, I tested it twice and I am coming out with 55-60 now maybe because it is in direct sun and I can see the black dot better opposed to last night when the pool area was shaded and the test wasn't in direct sunlight, is that going to cause any issues?
 
The CYA test should always be done in bright indirect sunlight. So this reading is likly better than your previous. Just means your FC might be a smidge high right now, but nothing to worry about. Just use 60ppm CYA going forward.
 
That CYA test takes a little getting used to. Best way seems to be:
1. Stand in direct sunlight.
2. Turn so your shadow covers your hands (so the sun is at your back).
3. Hold the CYA tube up and fill to the next line.
4. Hold CYA tube down at waist level and glance into the tube.
5. If you see the black dot, go back to step 3.
6. When you glance into the tube and the black dot is totally obscured, you are finished. Look at the line, that is your CYA.

You can always pour the water back into the dispenser bottle and do the test over again until you are confident with your reading.
 
I know I need to stay the course, but I'm feeling discouraged. My 2nd OCT night and I lost 5.5ppm. My pool is sparkling, I have been brushing like a maniac. The water has always been clear except for those 3 or 4 small algae spots. I haven't seen hide nor hair of algae since I started SLAM. Does it usually take a couple days on a pool that has super clear water and just a tiny bit of algae. Could it be in my filter? The filter has only been running for 8 months and 7 of those 8 have been the off season.
 
Stay the course ... trust the process.

Do you have an nooks that could be hiding algae? Have you ever pulled your light housings out of the niche ... scary what can be back there.
 

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