- Sep 15, 2014
- 1
Do you have a sand filter and when is the last time you change the sand in your filter
Brand New Owner - I have gone from green to cloudy. Please help me dial it in.
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- Start date
No sand filter. Just got my test kit delivered today and will start a new thread with results.
Sent by supernatural powers
Sent by supernatural powers
If you leave everything under the same thread it's easier for people to follow. You have a history then. ?
Allright Folks, I got my Taylor K2006 from UPS and am ready to go.
I got the docs from my pool liner from the folks I bought the house from. They recommend a ph in the 7.2 to 7.4 range, TA at about 100, CH 100 min, FC 3.0 max.
Here are my numbers:
FC 3.6
PH 7.1
TA 70
CH 120
CYA 50
The water is pretty cloudy in the deep end. You can barely see the 6' bottom.
If I am learning correctly the first thing I need to do is dial in my ph. Should I go with the 18 oz of baking soda or 39 oz of borax? What is my next step after that?
Is that TA recommendation high? Thanks for the help.
I got the docs from my pool liner from the folks I bought the house from. They recommend a ph in the 7.2 to 7.4 range, TA at about 100, CH 100 min, FC 3.0 max.
Here are my numbers:
FC 3.6
PH 7.1
TA 70
CH 120
CYA 50
The water is pretty cloudy in the deep end. You can barely see the 6' bottom.
If I am learning correctly the first thing I need to do is dial in my ph. Should I go with the 18 oz of baking soda or 39 oz of borax? What is my next step after that?
Is that TA recommendation high? Thanks for the help.
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As far as your target goes, here is what we recommend in Pool School:
Vinyl with Bleach
FC See CYA chart
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90+
CH 0-350 (Don't add)
CYA 30-50
Under normal conditions with a CYA of 50 you would have an absolute minimum FC of 4 with a target of 6. But, being in South Florida I might even raise the target to 7 or 8 until you get a feel for how much you loose in a day. You never want to go below 4!
But, you are still fighting algae. So, it's time to SLAM the pool. Follow the directions completely until the end.
To start the SLAM you want the pH in the 7.2 to 7.5 range as you will not be able to test it during the SLAM due to high FC levels. You can bring it up a smidge or just let it go with the 7.1. With areation/agitation of the pump runing 24/7 and you brushing the pool it will be coming up during the SLAM.
Worry about TA after the SLAM
Vinyl with Bleach
FC See CYA chart
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90+
CH 0-350 (Don't add)
CYA 30-50
Under normal conditions with a CYA of 50 you would have an absolute minimum FC of 4 with a target of 6. But, being in South Florida I might even raise the target to 7 or 8 until you get a feel for how much you loose in a day. You never want to go below 4!
But, you are still fighting algae. So, it's time to SLAM the pool. Follow the directions completely until the end.
To start the SLAM you want the pH in the 7.2 to 7.5 range as you will not be able to test it during the SLAM due to high FC levels. You can bring it up a smidge or just let it go with the 7.1. With areation/agitation of the pump runing 24/7 and you brushing the pool it will be coming up during the SLAM.
Worry about TA after the SLAM
I don't see any algae in the pool. How can you tell from the numbers?
The current cloudiness is pure white.
The current cloudiness is pure white.
I can't from the numbers, I can only go by what you reported before you got your test kit which was "pool became a swamp in the past couple weeks". While waiting for your kit you have been adding bleach and SLAMing blind sort of.
Three things end a SLAM
CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear
Even if short, I would say a SLAM is in order.
OK, with a CYA of 50 the chart says I need a FC level of 20, is that right? Thus almost 3 gallons of Bleach?
Not sure about the 3 gallons but the 20 is right.
Sorry if it seems harsh what I'm suggesting you do, but Id rather you end all this now rather then have to come back to it later.
It is my understanding that I need to keep it above shock level until the SLAM is over. Am I right that it does not matter how over? I mean, why bother testing exact amounts if I am over?
As long as the water is cloudy I can keep the level high. I sent my numbers into the stratosphere last night and added more bleach this morning. It is already clearer but not all the way.
When I get home tonight (long work day) I will test again and make sure the numbers make my eyes water.
As long as the water is cloudy I can keep the level high. I sent my numbers into the stratosphere last night and added more bleach this morning. It is already clearer but not all the way.
When I get home tonight (long work day) I will test again and make sure the numbers make my eyes water.
As long as the chlorine is above 20ppm and doesn't drop below, you are SLAMing.
Clearing up your pool is going to take some patience. Some pools take a couple of weeks or more to go crystal clear. The white cloudy is a good sign, that's dead algae. The filter will work on that- make sure it's running 24/7.
Clearing up your pool is going to take some patience. Some pools take a couple of weeks or more to go crystal clear. The white cloudy is a good sign, that's dead algae. The filter will work on that- make sure it's running 24/7.
Thanks. I am hoping it is a pretty quick turnaround. I found out that my filter was almost impenetrable this weekend and replaced it. My filter canister pressure went from ~35 psi to ~2psi after the change.
I will probably have a little quicker cleanup after that. lol
If im reading this right, you are talking about nuking your pool with so much chlorine that Chlorox will have to buy stock from you. That will be a very bad idea. While your liner is somewhat resistant to chlorine, it will bleach out and possibly become brittle. I feel you can target a slightly higher number (+3-5 and maybe even up to mustard algae levels temporarily) but extended high concentrations will possibly make more problems in the end.
Sorry, dont want to rain on your parade, but then again, i want you to be able to enjoy it later also.
So I just got home before heading back out to work and the pool if much clearer but my FC was 11ppm so something is using the chlorine. According to the calculator I needed another 3/4 gallon of 10.5% to get it back up and we will see how she looks in the morning.
Well, used the pool again today. FC 8.2 CC .6 <-- Don't really understand those numbers but whatever. Looks good to me.
You finished the SLAM?
What don't you understand about the numbers?
Also, it appears you are using 25 mL sample for 0.2 ppm accuracy. You =can go ahead and use 10 mL sample for 0.5 ppm accuracy. It will save you reagents and is close enough for us.
Thanks for the info. I finished the SLAM.
I don't know the relationship of cc to fc.
I can't check my numbers every day. I am trying to keep the chlorine around 8. Also since my CYA was a little high i try to drain water when it rains which it does several times a week. We will see how that works.
Sent by supernatural powers
There really isn't a "relationship" between FC & CC.
FC is exactly that, a reading of the free chlorine in the water waiting to oxidize bad stuff.
CC on the other hand is a reading of bad stuff in the process of being oxidized, here is the definition from Pool School
. My CC generally bounces around between 0 and .5.
Where is your CYA now? You say that you are trying to keep the FC at 8, which for me would be a good target if you were measuring and adding chlorine daily with a CYA of 50. As you are stretching that out to every other or third day you want to make sure that your target is high enough to keep the FC above your minimum for your CYA level.
If you have time constraints that preclude daily testing and additions, maybe look into an automated dosing system like a SWCG, Stenner pump or Liquidator. My preference is the Stenner, but probably because I have one
