Brand New MasterTemp 400 Error AGS

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nrobfd_pl said:
For the flex line, we checked the manual and it says: "The use of Flexible Connectors (FLEX) is NOT recommended unless they are properly sized according to the supplier recommendations for the heater rating."

He assured me it was properly sized for the heater.
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The flex line comes in a package that has the capacity rating printed on the label.

Can you show a picture of the label?

If you don't have it, ask the installer to send you a picture of the label.

Don't accept any excuses for them not providing a label.
 
JamesW said:
Are you 100% sure that the input voltage matches the plug?

Measure the input voltage.

Note: If you use the wrong plug, you can seriously damage the heater.

An airflow problem on a new heater is usually low voltage because the fan will run, but not at full speed, so it can sometimes work and sometimes not work.

Do not change the plug unless you are 100% sure that you know what you are doing.
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Yes, and I just pulled off the cover and opened the box to check just to make sure the red 220 plug is installed and that they didn't accidentally install the 120v plug at the factory.

I can measure the input voltage tomorrow morning. But it's wired for 220 and we haven't had any issues with any of our other 220 appliances/pumps/tools/etc.

It's on a shared breaker with the intellicenter and the SWG, but I would think if that was an issue it would just trip the breaker.

The heater seems to be functioning fine (aside from the initial startup issue). I'm wondering if these alerts are really legitimate. Especially the ignition lockout. In the manual, it seems to indicate that an ignition error can only be cleared by pressing the Heater Off button.
 
The ignition error says It can be the result of low flame. Low flame can be a result of low gas flow.
Your heater is brand new and under warranty- but they won't cover an install error. Your heater is natural gas so I assume your on natural gas (unless the orifice was changes to propane which is possible as mine was) I searched and the highest rated flex line I could find was a 1" that went to 275k btu on ng. If the flex line is not properly rated it coukd cause all kinds of issues. In addition, your gas valve is a restrictive flow type instead of a full port (AFAIK none with that style handle are full port)
Humor me and post a close up of the flex line. I can see some numbers on it where it passes into the heater.
If you don't want to mess with the gas line yet, do you have access to a manometer to do a static and active gas pressure test ( or have your hvac guy do a pressure test)
Last Any chance those error times correspond with your tankless water heater being in use?
 
Ahultin said:
The ignition error says It can be the result of low flame. Low flame can be a result of low gas flow.
Your heater is brand new and under warranty- but they won't cover an install error. Your heater is natural gas so I assume your on natural gas (unless the orifice was changes to propane which is possible as mine was) I searched and the highest rated flex line I could find was a 1" that went to 275k btu on ng. If the flex line is not properly rated it coukd cause all kinds of issues. In addition, your gas valve is a restrictive flow type instead of a full port (AFAIK none with that style handle are full port)
Humor me and post a close up of the flex line. I can see some numbers on it where it passes into the heater.
If you don't want to mess with the gas line yet, do you have access to a manometer to do a static and active gas pressure test ( or have your hvac guy do a pressure test)
Last Any chance those error times correspond with your tankless water heater being in use?
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Couldn’t get a good pic of the flex line. Here’s the shutoff:
IMG_1545.jpeg
The text on the flex line says:
Minnesota Flexible Corporation
A029C360
Lot 0114982

I don’t have access to a manometer.

Not sure about the water heater, I can check though. The gas company put in a 750k btu meter and we put in an 1.25” line. I think we should have enough gas for both appliances. Not sure if the pool heater is starved because of the shutoff/flex.

Now, it’s making a sound that I’d describe as a whine which the manual attributes to flame is too rich.

Anyone know if pentair customer service is open on the weekends?
 
nrobfd_pl said:
I think we should have enough gas for both appliances
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Yes with the 1.25 line and 750k service theoretically you should be ok but am I remembering correctly that you have 2 199k btu tankless water heaters in addition to the mastertemp 400k?
The reason I was asking about timing is less gas flow (in respect to multiple appliances) but more about the intake air issue we had discussed previously. Since your tankless intake air is closer than allowed to the Mt, the Mt could be fighting for intake air , which would correspond to your running rich possibility.
nrobfd_pl said:
Here’s the shutoff:
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This is a reduced port valve.

The first thing a warranty service tech will attack on a new install is an installation that does not conform with the manual
 
Ahultin said:
Yes with the 1.25 line and 750k service theoretically you should be ok but am I remembering correctly that you have 2 199k btu tankless water heaters in addition to the mastertemp 400k?
The reason I was asking about timing is less gas flow (in respect to multiple appliances) but more about the intake air issue we had discussed previously. Since your tankless intake air is closer than allowed to the Mt, the Mt could be fighting for intake air , which would correspond to your running rich possibility.

This is a reduced port valve.

The first thing a warranty service tech will attack on a new install is an installation that does not conform with the manual
Click to expand...
We have a single 199k btu tankless water heater. I'm planning to extend the intake on the water heater in the not too distant future to get it in adherence to the MasterTemp Manual's specifications.

Are you saying the reduced port valve is a problem?

This experience with the heater as been strange. Aside from initial startup issues (because I didn't flip the gas switch on and assumed the guy who hooked up the gas did) it ran flawlessly for about a day and a half. Now it seems to be having more and more issues.

It's also might be worth mentioning that the new gas meter they installed was making a clicking noise we could hear through the wall tonight while watching tv. At first I thought a pipe in an upstairs bathroom was dripping.
 
nrobfd_pl said:
Are you saying the reduced port valve is a problem?
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Anything that restricts flow on a 400k btu appliances presents the possibility of an issue.
Stack the restrictive ball valve with a potentially restrictive flex line with the possibility of an intake air battle and you have the makings of one of those problems that you throw a bunch of unrelated parts at and never fix the actual issue ( been there done that lol )
 

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nrobfd_pl said:
It's also might be worth mentioning that the new gas meter they installed was making a clicking noise
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Wouldn't hurt to check the sediment trap for debris or moisture. By code it should have been installed after the shutoff valve so you could check it without shutting off the house but it looks like yours was installed before the shutoff so you'll need to shut off the house to do so.
 
JamesW said:
Check the voltage, gas pressure static and dynamic, stack flue temperature and the cfh rating for the flex line.
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Voltage is 240.7

I don’t have tools to check gas pressure, I’ll get someone over to check it.

How do I check stack flue temp? I know it’s send alarms/alerts to the automation, but haven’t gotten any.
 
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