Brand New MasterTemp 400 Error AGS

[nrobfd_pl]

Just fired up my new Mastertemp. Immediately throwing AGS error.

I checking the troubleshooting guide. At first was running the pump at 1200 rpm, bypass fully open. Error AGS.
Tried 1900 rpm. Error AGS.
Tried 2200 rpm. Error AGS.

Heater is wired for 220. It's connected to a 15 amp breaker along with the Intellicenter & SWG transformer.

 

[ajw22]

You say immediately throwing AGS error.

Does the blower begin running?

Do you get any puff of heat out of the exhaust?

You have the heater input and output switched?

Post pics of your equipment pad and heater.

AGS errors are usually caused by a bad internal bypass. Too much water is bypassing the heat exchanger internally. What water that is going through is coming out too hot and tripping the AGS switch in the manifold.

• Remove the leads from the AGS sensor and connect them together. Temp only for the test.
• Then, check the continuity of the sensor. It should be closed.
• Start the heater. If the sensor opens, immediately turn off the heater.
• If the sensor opens, it might be a bad sensor or the water is overheating.
• To test the sensor, put it in hot water to see where it actually opens.
• If the sensor does not open and the heater shuts off with an AGS light, the board is bad.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Blower starts up. Heatings led blinks, goes solid for a second or two and then blinks.

Cool air out of exhaust.

Error ags within 20-30 seconds of startup.

 

[ajw22]

Check the AGS sensor and connections to the sensor as described above.

Is the ON/OFF switch next to the gas control valve ON?

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Ok. So I'm an idiot. The switch was off.

But after switching it on, it made a different sound this time (kind of a whoosh) and then threw the AGS error.

Checked the sensor, has continuity and continued to have continuity during startup.

Connecting the leads to each other still yielded an AGS error.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Still an idiot. Needed to RTFM. Cleared the air and it lit second time. No AGS error.

But now this:

 

[JamesW]

Open it up and show the inside.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

 

[JamesW]

Where is the water coming from?

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Seems to be underneath. But nothing inside.

Edit: it has dried now and no new water. Doesn’t make sense but I’ll keep an eye on it.

 

[JamesW]

Probably a bad AGS sensor.

There seems to be multiple reports of bad sensors recently.

Ask for a new AGS sensor from the seller or Pentair.

 

[Ahultin]

That sure looks like a flex line feeding the gas which the Mt 400 manual says is a no no?
In addition there does not appear to be a sediment trap (or if there is, it is before the shutoff valve)

 

[JamesW]

Who installed this?

Why does it have mastertemp 400 hd written on the top?

Was the top replaced?

Is this a used heater?

You should find the source of the water leaking from the heater.

Can you show the label with the barcode?

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Who installed this?

Why does it have mastertemp 400 hd written on the top?

Was the top replaced?

Is this a used heater?

You should find the source of the water leaking from the heater.

Can you show the label with the barcode?

My HVAC ran the gas line. The top was not replaced it came like that. It is a new Mastertemp 400 hd (460805)

I'll look more in the morning when it's light.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

That sure looks like a flex line feeding the gas which the Mt 400 manual says is a no no?
In addition there does not appear to be a sediment trap (or if there is, it is before the shutoff valve)

There's a sediment trap.

For the flex line, we checked the manual and it says: "The use of Flexible Connectors (FLEX) is NOT recommended unless they are properly sized according to the supplier recommendations for the heater rating."

He assured me it was properly sized for the heater.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

Also, the heater seems to be running perfectly fine now. That spot has dried completely and doesn't appear to be leaking currently. Still need to investigate the source though.

 

[nrobfd_pl]

The heater still seems to be working fine and doesn't appear to be leaking. I'm thinking that the water may have been from something else. However, I'm having another issue. I have the heater connected to the intellicenter via RS-485 and am able to control it without issue. I have the app set up to give me notifications about the heater (all 15 options are selected).

I've received several notifications that don't really make sense. Today after turning on the heater:
2:31:12 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Switch
2:31:16 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Switch
3:01:14 PM Alert Active - Communication Lost
3:01:18 PM Alert Cleared - Communication Lost
3:21:54 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Fault Alarm
3:31:58 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Fault Alarm
3:39:10 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Switch
3:39:14 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Switch
4:50:23 PM Alert Active - Ignition Lockout Alarm
4:50:27 PM Alert Cleared - Ignition Lockout Alarm
5:16:07 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Switch
5:16:11 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Switch
5:44:03 PM Alert Active - Ignition Lockout Alarm
5:44:07 PM Alert Cleared - Ignition Lockout Alarm
6:04:39 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Switch
6:04:43 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Switch
6:31:11 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Switch
6:31:15 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Switch
7:58:55 PM Alert Active - Ignition Lockout Alarm
7:58:59 PM Alert Active - Ignition Lockout Alarm
8:24:08 PM Alert Active - Air Flow Switch
8:24:12 PM Alert Cleared - Air Flow Switch

The heater seems to be running fine and as expected throughout this time. It's strangely coincidental that in every case there is 4 seconds between the alert becoming active and being cleared.

 

[ajw22]

It's strangely coincidental that in every case there is 4 seconds between the alert becoming active and being cleared.

I don't know why you are getting the alerts. We will have to see if others with the connected heater say.

My guess is 4 seconds is the minimum sampling time between faults or when alerts are sent. So the alert could clear in a second or less but the board takes 4 seconds before it can figure out it is now working and send out the clear message.

What is your warranty status with Pentair and the MasterTemp? I would see what Pentair Support says about the alerts you are getting.

 

[JamesW]

Are you 100% sure that the input voltage matches the plug?

Measure the input voltage.

Note: If you use the wrong plug, you can seriously damage the heater.

An airflow problem on a new heater is usually low voltage because the fan will run, but not at full speed, so it can sometimes work and sometimes not work.

Do not change the plug unless you are 100% sure that you know what you are doing.