Hi. I am replacing a pool pump on an older pool and noticed there is no bonding wire at the pump. I checked the pool. The ladder, handrail and pool light junction box had continuity, so it looks like it has a bonding grid. I will check to see if the pump bonding wire was cut. My question is the pool light junction box. It has a bonding wire connection and an electrical ground wire connection. Doesn’t this create a connection between ground and the bonding grid ? Could a ground fault electrify the bonding grid and create a safety issue?
Bonding question
- Thread starter gctnj
- Start date
- May 3, 2007
- 18,067
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Yes, assuming that the bonding wire is directly connected to the ground wire then by definition, they are connected. However, bonding through the house ground is not to code so I would not go that route. All electrical equipment, decking, railings, etc. needs to have a common bond independent of ground.
If you can route a bonding wire from the pump to the same pool light j-box bonding connection location, then that should be sufficient.
If all equipment is bonded together (i.e. independent from ground) AND protected by a GFIC, then there is sufficient safety protection. Any ground fault to the bond and/or house ground will trip the breaker and/or GFCI depending on the type of fault removing the source.
A pool as old as yours was probably plumbed using copper pipe and a bronze pump. That pipe was also the bond as long as the pump was also electrically grounded (a separate ground wire, many weren't in that era). The pipe was also considered the grounding for the motor many times.
If the pump was replaced with a new plastic one the bond to the motor was gone. If there is a piece of copper pipe still coming out of the ground, get a ground clamp and some 8ga wire and attach it to the bond lug on the motor. Be sure that there is also a 12g ground wire to the equipment if possible.
Ok. The pool light junction box has a connection for bonding and one for ground. Since the junction base is metal, it is conductive and essentially connects them. I think this is similar to the pool pump which has a bonding and ground connection. If I need to isolate bonding and ground at the junction box, I need to remove one of them. Should I leave the bonding wire and remove the ground connection to the box? The pool light would connect to electrical in the box but would not connect the ground to the box. Is this correct?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,086
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Show us pictures of your junction box and where you think the bond wire and ground wire connect.
- May 3, 2007
- 18,067
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
No, just leave it as is. Both the ground and the bond are fine connected to the j-box.
What I was describing was to add a bonding wire from the pump directly to the j-box so the pump bond and pool bond are in direct contact.
Got it. I will leave it as is in the j-box. If I can’t find a wire buried near the pump, I will run a wire from the j-box. Thanks for the help
Ran a bond wire to the pump. Thought I would make sure everything else is to code since I plan on adding a heat pump, which will need to be inspected. The electrical comes out the basement wall to a metal junction box and then to the pump timer (metal case). Should both also be bonded? Also my pump electrical connection to timer is in Liquid Tight, but is 8 feet long. Should it be a max of 3 feet? Thx
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,086
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
No, that sounds like electrical grounds not bonding.
Bonding vs Grounding
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www.troublefreepool.com
No.
- May 3, 2007
- 18,067
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Just grounded. Only electrical equipment that has water running through it (heater/pump) needs to be bonded plus areas in and around the pool.
3' cord maximum is for pump flexible cords with outlet plugs. As long as the pump directly wired through conduit, there is no limit specified in the NEC except for wire gauge size.
In preparation for a heat pump, I’ve been checking if my existing setup could have some inspection issues. I have a pool pump disconnect and would add one for the heat pump. To reach the disconnect you need to step over a 2 foot high retaining wall. Since you need to climb over an obstacle, would this be considered “readily accessible”? Also the disconnect (non fused) is only two feet from the ground. Does the height meet requirements? Thx
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,086
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There is a lot left to individual inspector interpretations. And usually the inspector will only inspect items within the scope of the permit. So if the permit is for the HP he will not fail you on pump issues although he may point it out to you.
The Inspector also does not know what items outside the permit may be grandfathered under old codes. And he does not want to open up that can of worms.
The HP install should meet current codes. You need to either ask the inspector about the disconnect being outside the 2 foot wall or get the HP disconnect inside that wall. I would think the inspector will say the disconnect needs to be inside the wall but it may be worth the ask.