Blow Out of Main Drain - I Did the Following!

[abro42]

hi and Hello:

At $250 a pop, my wife and I I decided to close our pool. It's a AGP, 4 ft deep, 25 ft diameter. I bought a Cyclone Pro with 4 ft attached hose to assist based on TFP forum recommendation. Sand filter is Hayward S240 (overkill for sure and came with the house purchase)

My pool water level is below the return (i.e., bubbler) after discharging water with HAYWARD Multi-Valve setting (WASTE). The pump is removed for winter storage and the plumbing is also removed from the skimmer and main line drain to the pump. This is obviously not needed but I feel better and definitely not needed. Main line drain from pool is plugged at ground level since plumbing to pump is removed

So....the following has been done:

(a) Hayward set to 'Recirculate" and all water blown out in line to bubbler (return port). Easy blow out and bubbler port closed with adapter and screw cap.

(b) main line drain connection configured with strong valve (red handle) and 1 1/2 in pipe and connected to main line drain (remove existing plug) from elbow at ground level. Now water is stopped at valve from pool.

(c) connection shows no leaks and CYCLONE Pro attached to 1 1/2 in pipe with rubber 1 1/2 in coupler.

(d) SLOWLY open valve (red handle) and power on CYCLONE PRO. Fully open valve (red handle) and hear bubbles in center of pool. I blow air for 2 minutes then power off CYCLONE and quickly close valve (red handle).

(e) Set Hayward handle to mid-position between "WASTE" and "CLOSED". No WINTER setting so is this correct??

(f) Drain sand filter, remove sight glass, remove gauge and seal ports on MPV. Sand filter drain is OPEN and top cap screw on sand filter pressure relief is OPEN.

(e) install pool cover and place sandbags on deck for the section of the pool cover that cannot completely cover pool. We place stakes in the ground and stringers across the pool to support the cover plus 3-4 pillows.

I think I have an air-tight connection for the main drain in the pool up to the valve in step (b). I hate to use ant-freeze as its not friendly to the environment. Also, the discharge in the Spring is not environmentally safe . Hopefully the pic's below will assist my method used.

Recommendations? Thoughts? Love this forum. Appreciate your feedback.

Thank you.

 

[Bperry]

hi and Hello:

At $250 a pop, my wife and I I decided to close our pool. It's a AGP, 4 ft deep, 25 ft diameter. I bought a Cyclone Pro with 4 ft attached hose to assist based on TFP forum recommendation. Sand filter is Hayward S240 (overkill for sure and came with the house purchase)

My pool water level is below the return (i.e., bubbler) after discharging water with HAYWARD Multi-Valve setting (WASTE). The pump is removed for winter storage and the plumbing is also removed from the skimmer and main line drain to the pump. This is obviously not needed but I feel better and definitely not needed. Main line drain from pool is plugged at ground level since plumbing to pump is removed

So....the following has been done:

(a) Hayward set to 'Recirculate" and all water blown out in line to bubbler (return port). Easy blow out and bubbler port closed with adapter and screw cap.

(b) main line drain connection configured with strong valve (red handle) and 1 1/2 in pipe and connected to main line drain (remove existing plug) from elbow at ground level. Now water is stopped at valve from pool.

(c) connection shows no leaks and CYCLONE Pro attached to 1 1/2 in pipe with rubber 1 1/2 in coupler.

(d) SLOWLY open valve (red handle) and power on CYCLONE PRO. Fully open valve (red handle) and hear bubbles in center of pool. I blow air for 2 minutes then power off CYCLONE and quickly close valve (red handle).

(e) Set Hayward handle to mid-position between "WASTE" and "CLOSED". No WINTER setting so is this correct??

(f) Drain sand filter, remove sight glass, remove gauge and seal ports on MPV. Sand filter drain is OPEN and top cap screw on sand filter pressure relief is OPEN.

(e) install pool cover and place sandbags on deck for the section of the pool cover that cannot completely cover pool. We place stakes in the ground and stringers across the pool to support the cover plus 3-4 pillows.

I think I have an air-tight connection for the main drain in the pool up to the valve in step (b). I hate to use ant-freeze as its not friendly to the environment. Also, the discharge in the Spring is not environmentally safe . Hopefully the pic's below will assist my method used.

Recommendations? Thoughts? Love this forum. Appreciate your feedback.

Thank you.

Only thing I’d check is the skimmer itself to make sure there’s no water in it that can freeze. Not sure how the skimmer sits without the plumbing attached so just something to check.

You should also note that the antifreeze is not the same stuff as you put in the car. It’s RV antifreeze and lots of it is biodegradable and non-toxic. (Doesn’t mean I’d drink it though) It should be labeled.

 

[Newdude]

Thoughts?

You did good.

The horizontal pipe under the pool will fill no matter how well its blown. Stick a finger over the end of a straw and dunk it and the straw is 'air locked' and won't let any water in. Keep your finger on the straw and dunk it sideways and water will gulg glug it full in no time. The pipe under the pool is a sideways straw.

Also, when blowing with a cyclone, if you see air you're empty for all intents and purposes. Maybe count 5 Mississippis, but you don't need to wait 2 mins.

Also also, just for anyone who may read this searching for themselves, always close the valve under pressure. No matter how fast you are turning off the blower and closing the valve, it takes a quarter second to fill. With such a short pipe it would be almost instantaneous. The cyclone or shop vac can handle being choked for a few seconds.