Well, we met with the foreman again yesterday. We went over all of the new issues including those problems with the glass accent tile. He first says it is all perfectly normal and that there’s no way to make those accent tiles stay stacked because of the curve. My husband and I outlined a couple different ways he could approach it and then he asked if that’s what we wanted him to do. Well…yes! Why are we the ones having to tell this so-called professional how to do the job?! Then I asked specifically what kind of saw he was using. First he changed the subject and then when I repeated my question he answered that (as suspected) he uses a handheld saw because he says the table saw is too big and inconvenient! But, if I wanted him to use one then he will. Um, yes! I want you to use the proper tools! We have not been able to decide what to do with the spa wall problem with the “bullnose“ grout yet since so far all options require him to cut the tile.Sorry, I meant to address that. That's happening because of the curve. The inside row is shorter than the outside row, so left unchecked, the "frequency" of the tiles will have to meet together somewhere. This is the difference between someone that cares about his work and someone that doesn't. The work-around for that is to vary the end-to-end grout gap for each row, such that the outside row has a larger grout gap between its tiles. So you can't have a perfect stagger AND identical grout lines. You have to compromise one or the other. Well, you can, but it would mean cutting each tile of the inner row a very small amount. That'd be rough, but doable with some skill, I think. Or maybe slipping in a 3/4 tile every so often, to keep the tiles from lining up. There are a few ways to do it. He might complain about those other solutions, but they're possible. Of the many possible layout solutions, he chose the easiest one (shocker).
If he's not using a table saw with water (I think a diamond blade is the best), then you've definitely got the wrong tile guy. There are many different kinds, but they're big. Something like this:
If he's able to hold it in his hand, then that's a hand saw and not appropriate for your particular job. It might work on some types of tile, but obviously isn't working on the kind you've chosen. So no, it is not too much to ask that your tile guy be using the right tools.
Remember, I suggested you take your cut sample to a tile store and ask them to weigh in on this issue. If they say that cut is the best that can be done, then you'll know. But if they say it's bogus, then you'll have some professional-backed "ammo" to discuss with the builder when you have your meeting.
Your tile guy reminds me of the pool guy that installed some of my equipment. I watched him work, and while I knew little about pool gear at the time, I certainly knew what good electrical work looked like, and his wasn't it! I could tell, he was lazy and just burned out. While "doing it for 25 years" might get you an incredible craftsman, it just as likely will get you a guy that was done 10 years ago, but can't make a living any other way, so begrudgingly plods along. Sorry, I'm projecting, and a bit jaded when it comes to contractors, but I used to be licensed, and good at what I did, and I get peeved when I hear of guys that just don't want to do the work, but still want to get paid for it.=== END OF RANT ===
As you suggested, I took the sample he made us to 2 stores today and they agreed it must be a dull blade or not enough water. When I told them what he was using to make the cuts they just kind of rolled thier eyes. They were able to show me similar tiles that had been cut and how it should look with no chipping on the sides.
So since it is a new day, I have a new question. In one of the pictures I showed today you could see the rest of the pool and the man who was helping me had some concerns. So basically nothing has been done to the inside of the pool shell since demo so it’s full of pits, some seem large and deep, particularly on the pool first step area and in spa. This man was saying that the pool should have been smoothed with plaster prior to the tiles being installed, then they do the Stonescapes pebble plaster on top of that smooth surface. My guy who is doing the work said they don’t smooth it out at all and just fill all the cracks and pits with the Stonescapes plaster. Does that sound correct?
