Bad opening with lots of algae, starting SLAM.

[JWLuke]

I just opened my pool and the water is dark green with floating algae. Nothing like this has happened in the six years I’ve been doing the TSP method.
FC-0
PH-8.2 plus
TA-80
CH-175
CYA-20
Temp 49°
CSI- -0.02

My question is do I need to run the pump on high the whole time during the SLAM or can it run at a slower speed VSP? Can I run on circulate to bypass the filtering or should I run through filter? I’ve added acid to get the PH down and have added LC to start the SLAM.

 

[Newdude]

My question is do I need to run the pump on high the whole time during the SLAM or can it run at a slower speed VSP?

Slow and low works great. I'd run 1500 RPMs, considerably more than a trickle and yet it won't break the bank for energy.

Can I run on circulate to bypass the filtering or should I run through filter?

Two schools of thought there and nobody is wrong.

1) Recirculate to not need to babysit the filter yet. (Wait until it's cloudy/milky and the algae is mostly dead)

2) Get a head start on filtering it all out.

I’ve added acid to get the PH down and have added LC to start the SLAM.

Ok then. FC is all you test from here on out. Once it's TFP clear, test CCs to pass the OCLT, but skip them until then.

Bring FC back to slam as often as it needs. It may need it every 2 hours at first. As the process plays out, it holds longer and longer. Adjust test times/doses as necessary.

Brush and Vac at least once a day

Scrub every inch, paying mind to anywhere it's hiding in plain sight like the light niche, up in the skimmer or an autofill.

 

[JWLuke]

Thanks for the help NewDude. Looks like it’s SLAM time for a few days or more.

 

[Newdude]

Cold water slams go much easier, no matter how bad they still may be, than when the algae is growing exponentially once it warms up.

When you do decide to start filtering, backwash at + 25% psi. Note the psi at full speed because its alot easier to see 25% of 18 than 25% of 3.

Add 10 CYA to get to 30 and slam at 12 FC.
If you feel you've backwashed and replaced a bunch of water, check the CYA and dose back to 30 if needed.

Thanks for the help

Check in with updates/questions/progress and we'll help or root accordingly.

 

[JWLuke]

All noted, thanks again for the quick reply.

 

[JWLuke]

Newdude, I do have another question for you. For the last 6 yrs that I have used the TFP method for closing, I have brought my FC to SLAM level and let it drift back down to 10 ppm and closed a clean clear pool. I did the same procedure last fall and I open to this mess. I do not use polyquat 60 because I’ve learned that it counter acts with the high FC. I usually open early to mid April with no problems. We have had some warm weather but nothing out of a normal spring. Do you think that I just got caught sleeping on the warm weather or is there anything else I can do in the future? This is so frustrating. Pool ownership is not for the faint of heart, it always finds a way to surprise you.

Jerry

 

[PoolStored]

Jerry,

You might wait a bit further in the fall. PM shows 62 degrees and Nov 1 close.

You will have the polyquat and nopolyquat groups here.

I'm in the PQ camp. I follow this to a T and ensure I close with water below 60, and soft open on March 15. For the last 3 years I've opened to FC = 2.5. Adjust timing for your latitude, I'm on NE Ohio...

Closing an In Ground Pool

Winterizing a pool is essential for keeping your in-ground pool protected during cold-weather months. This Pool Repair guide will show you how to do it.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

*drill Sergeant voice*

PAIN lets you know you are still alive.


Close at full slam. I now stir mine up after draining the rain accumulation with a submersible during the off season. (Assuming yours is a mesh cover too) If I was getting low on FC, I'd add some and mix again.

+1 to closing later.
-1 team anti PQ. (Both ways work)

 

[JWLuke]

*drill Sergeant voice*

PAIN lets you know you are still alive.


Close at full slam. I now stir mine up after draining the rain accumulation with a submersible during the off season. (Assuming yours is a mesh cover too) If I was getting low on FC, I'd add some and mix again.

+1 to closing later.
-1 team anti PQ. (Both ways work)

I still shutter at the drill sergeant voice. Even though it was 48 years ago, I bet if my wife played a loud speaker of reveille in my bedroom one morning that I would jump out of bed at attention.
I might just have to add some LC mid winter, not by choice but by need. I do have a mesh cover also. Thanks.

 

[Newdude]

I do have a mesh cover also

Ok great. I took samples one year at various depths and it was rain water up top increasing to exactly how I left it at the bottom. I strung the pump in a bucket to only get top water and even with a couple hours of draining(mixing) the top remained all 0s after.



So then i sunk the pump to the bottom, tossed the hose on the cover and gave left / right / center 20 mins each through the cover.

 

[Newdude]

*edit to add i sunk the pump to the bottom before mixing.

If you got bit this year its almost certainly from the 0 FC rain water sitting on top, combined with some warmer weather.

*providing you closed late enough and had enough FC.

 

[JWLuke]

*edit to add i sunk the pump to the bottom before mixing.

If you got bit this year its almost certainly from the 0 FC rain water sitting on top, combined with some warmer weather.

*providing you closed late enough and had enough FC.

The light bulb just went off.
The top level of water has zero FC so it by itself grows algae. I will have to pay attention to that. Thanks guys.

 

[Newdude]

The top level of water has zero FC so it by itself grows algae.

It certainy can.

will have to pay attention to that

I figured I was in there draining anyway, and it took next to no effort to mix while everything was already set up. Just like draining, I didn't baby sit it and tinkerered with other stuff while it was doing it's thing.

 

[JWLuke]

And we did have a larger than normal amount of snow.