Backwashing Hayward EC75

[Pooler-Bear]

I backwashed and recharged it about 2 months ago, the pressure is at about 20, and I was told by the original owner that it would normally sit around 15, and if it goes up, just bump it and it should loosen up and go down.

Lately, I am seeing more air bubble in the pump filter window, turning off, bumping causes the bubble to reduce but it comes back occasionally. Could it be because filter is getting clogged? When I backwashed, I don't believe I got all the DE out, and it's a very old filter I don't want to try to open it up unless I absolutely have to. I was thinking maybe I can ride this pool season, and clean it during closing? Pool is clear, occasionally will start growing some green spots, I just recharge the chlorinator with 2 x 3" tabs and turn the chlorinator to 5 or 6 (7-8 is highest) on my CL200 Chlorine Feeder. This seems to help but I still have to brush daily, vacuum every 2-3 days using Polaris.

I do feel like I may need to get a new pump and equipment next year.
PS: I don't have multi-valve.

 

[Texas Splash]

There's a filter we don't see everyday. It's very possible you may have an algae issue. Even in clear water, excessive organics can reduce water flow, cause an increase in filter pressure, and the added resistance can impact what you see at the pump. Since you saw some green spots previously, algae is probably still living in the water. The fact you are using chlorine tabs on a regular basis can also be a concern.

But let's start with the basics - how are you testing your water? Can you provide a full set of test results?

Also be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics page. We'll do all we can to help you. Welcome to TFP!

 

[Pooler-Bear]

There's a filter we don't see everyday. It's very possible you may have an algae issue. Even in clear water, excessive organics can reduce water flow, cause an increase in filter pressure, and the added resistance can impact what you see at the pump. Since you saw some green spots previously, algae is probably still living in the water. The fact you are using chlorine tabs on a regular basis can also be a concern.

But let's start with the basics - how are you testing your water? Can you provide a full set of test results?

Also be sure to visit our Pool Care Basics page. We'll do all we can to help you. Welcome to TFP!

I only have those testing strips. I drove by to check the local pool store to see if they have test kits, and they only had no-name or store branded ones.
Is the filter really that old/ancient?
I did not have algae at the bottom of the pool until I shocked it last week after part of kids swimming and heavy rain. Until then it would have shade of green on certain walls (under the ladder, near steps) but after shocking do you think I messed with the chemistry and caused it to just generate more algae somehow?

I use the chlorine tabs as I thought that was part of the instruction because the strips kept telling me I was low on chlorine. I also had water tested at local store and they said I was a little low on chlorine. I think I was 1 when it is supposed to be 2, but I'll get a test kit asap, is there one I can get from Amazon so it can arrive tomorrow?
Thanks so much for the welcome, this is all new to me, I appreciate the understanding and any help the pros here willing to share.

PS: The options and discussion here I see mention Liquid Chlorine, is that what I have even though I don't add liquid chlorine to the pool?

 

[Texas Splash]

Is the filter really that old/ancient?

I'll let someone like @JamesW tell us how often we see those models.

I did not have algae at the bottom of the pool until I shocked it last week after part of kids swimming and heavy rain. Until then it would have shade of green on certain walls (under the ladder, near steps) but after shocking do you think I messed with the chemistry and caused it to just generate more algae somehow?

All we can do is guess at this point. Only with valid tests from a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit can you be sure.

is there one I can get from Amazon so it can arrive tomorrow?

You can try Amazon for the Taylor K-2006C. Be sure to look for the C version as it has larger bottles. Otherwise, the TF-100 (link in my signature) is a better buy.

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!

www.troublefreepool.com

For daily chlorination, liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) is preferred as those do not have side effects like increasing the CYA level too high. But with accurate testing we can easily coach you through the water chemistry process. Ideally, we'd like to help you get any potential issues resolved before you have to close. But feel free to ask ANY questions.

 

[JamesW]

The filter is not common or uncommon.

I would take it apart and give it a good cleaning.

 

[Pooler-Bear]

Thanks for the responses, I would like to get the test asap so I'll go with Amazon. I ordered the one ending in C, will keep you posted once I get the first test done.

Hi James,
I checked some instructions and videos, it looks like this is the "finger" type filter, not the "sheet" type (sorry, not familiar with terms). I also need to soak it in something to get it cleaned completely. I was worried about the possible condition of the filter and not being able to put it back together. I was thinking of just buying a new filter media and starting fresh, but I don't see them being sold like those sheet type filters. If I open it and can't put it back together, do I just buy a new filter and uncouple/recouple it and be done? I am just worried as this is my first pool, and at first it looked very complicated, then I learned what each part does, but now I am worried that they will break apart.

 

[Getitrite]

Hi @Pooler_Bear

You may be able to Short-cut filter cleaning to get you through the rest of your season just by using the garden hose . . . if you feel comfortable doing so.

It's been many years since my EC-75, but this YouTube Video is sort of what I am suggesting for you. (I, in no way, am affiliated with, nor endorse the cleaning product. I only am trying to show a method to rinse the fingers and filter body.) I would just skip the steps taking the plumbing apart and the cleaning solution, use only water, and make a decision at the end of season as to how you want to proceed at that time. You could find replacement is not necessary?

 

[Pooler-Bear]

Thank you Getitrite, that's a great video, I just vaguely remembered there being a solution to help clear it, but you are right, first step is to open it and see what it looks like in there. I will try to order O ring/seal (if there is one on top of the filter) in case old one is stuck/broken because that's what happened to me with the chlorine filler. I didn't have spare o-rings on hand, had to pay a pretty penny at a local store (I think I got 1 ring for the price of whole case of o-rings) But they really helped me so I am not mad.

 

[Pooler-Bear]

For daily chlorination, liquid chlorine (or regular bleach) is preferred as those do not have side effects like increasing the CYA level too high. But with accurate testing we can easily coach you through the water chemistry process. Ideally, we'd like to help you get any potential issues resolved before you have to close. But feel free to ask ANY questions.

I received the test kit today. I ran some tests but I am a bit confused. It says For 1 drop =0.2 ppm use 25ml and for 1 drop = 0.5ppm use 10ml. How do I know what is each drop ppm? I just used 10ml.

Chlorine test with 10ml sample in large tube, Step #3 was 6 drops to turn clear.
It says multiply drops by equivalence, what is that?
Step #5 was a light pink
Then Step#6 took only 2 drops to turn back to clear.

CYA is between 50 and 60.

PH is about 7.5 (I looked at it against the sun, this picture might be a little confusing)

I could not get a good reading for Calcium Hardness - CH, it did not want to turn to blue at all. Red kept clumping and this happened, I added more than 15 drops it was still like this.

Total Alkalinity: 7 drops ~ 70ppm



PH:



I'd like to share the type of algae I am seeing (only at the bottom of the pool) if this is even algae.

 

[Texas Splash]

How do I know what is each drop ppm? I just used 10ml.

Yes, use the 10 ML water sample size with ONE generous scoop of power. Once you count the drops from pink to clear divide in half. Example - 20 drops equals an FC of 10.

CYA is between 50 and 60.

Let's assume it is 60.

PH is about 7.5 (I looked at it against the sun, this picture might be a little confusing)

It's a tricky one for me as well. Some people place something white behind the viewer. I typically use outside light but while I'm in the shade against the beige siding of my house.

I could not get a good reading for Calcium Hardness - CH, it did not want to turn to blue at all. Red kept clumping and this happened, I added more than 15 drops it was still like this.

Stick with it. The reddish color (which indicates calcium) must eventually turn to a baby (light) blue - not purple. I use the 10 ml sample size where each drop counts as 25 ppm. 20 drops is a CH of 500, so your CH could be much higher.

 

[Pooler-Bear]

Yes, use the 10 ML water sample size with ONE generous scoop of power. Once you count the drops from pink to clear divide in half. Example - 20 drops equals an FC of 10.


Let's assume it is 60.


It's a tricky one for me as well. Some people place something white behind the viewer. I typically use outside light but while I'm in the shade against the beige siding of my house.


Stick with it. The reddish color (which indicates calcium) must eventually turn to a baby (light) blue - not purple. I use the 10 ml sample size where each drop counts as 25 ppm. 20 drops is a CH of 500, so your CH could be much higher.

Thank you so much, the only confusing part was the beginning, and I had put actually 2 scoops of powder for some reason.
So I'll go back and do 2 scoops.

In the meantime, my wife told me she actually took some sample to the leslie's this morning, not knowing we were receiving the Taylor test today, and we have this from the in-store test.

Any idea if that stuff is algae or some other substance like from trees etc? Does algae ever clump up like that and stay in one place like the algae in ocean? It disappears when we brush it, then collects there again (this is the deep end).

 

[Texas Splash]

So I'll go back and do 2 scoops.

No need. If you use the 10 ml sample size, one generous scoop is enough. The 2 scoops is when using the larger 25 ml sample size.

Any idea if that stuff is algae or some other substance like from trees etc? Does algae ever clump up like that and stay in one place like the algae in ocean? It disappears when we brush it, then collects there again (this is the deep end).

What you are describing sounds like algae. I would elevated your FC level to about 6-8 ppm today then do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.

 

[Ahhsomeguy]

Hi Pooler-Bear: Your Hayward Perflex EC-75 DE Filter is and always has been an extremely popular filter, especially in the Northeast. The EC means “extended cycle”. The fingers total 7.5 sq. ft in area. When you bump the system, handle down easy and up briskly, much of the DE falls off the 120 dacron/nylon fingers to the filter base. Note, always turn off pump before bumping or regenerating and always wiggle the bump handle side to side before pressing down and lifting up.
Inside the filter are 2 tube sheets that can easily crack if the bump mechanism is pushed down with excess force when bumping. When the pressure after bumping does not go back down as low as it did when first started with a clean filter, this may mean that you need to change the diatomaceous earth. I recommend that you purchas a Hayward item called the cleaning wand. It works amazingly well and is so easy to do. You shut the pump off, bump the filter with the ball valve at the waste port at the bottom, turn the pump back on for 15 seconds. Shut pump off, hook a garden hose to the cleaning wand, insert into open ball valve, spray water up into filter top, move it around so spray gets full coverage, let filter drain the old stuck DE out on the ground.
Your filter fingers are now much cleaner. Recharge with DE ( use the right amount and no extra). I recommend (6) 1 lb. coffee cans of DE Powder. This is a little less than directions say. Mix the DE into a slurry in a pail and pour into skimmer closest to the pump. Many people do remove the bolts and nuts on top and remove the tube sheets and finger assenbly to hose off or do an “acid wash” if calcium conditions have clogged the pores. This really is a last resort function. The cleaning wand is generally you will need.
Bubbles in the pump strainer for the Super Pump is usually the grooved gasket. Simple to change. Remove the Lexan clear cover and you will see the black rectangular gasket. Replace with a new one. Generally, this will solve your bubble issue. I have probably sold and service well over 20,000 Hayward Perflex DE Filters, probably even more. I know the issues and the fixes. Get that wand and replace the grooved gasket. Most retail pool stores in your area will help you obtain them.

 

[Getitrite]

Looks quite a bit more expensive than when I bought mine ... But, isn't everything?

 

[Pooler-Bear]

@Texas Splash,
Thanks, it's been raining recently so I wasn't able to do the test, I assume rains messes up the chlorine levels badly? I will run it asap. To get the chlorine levels high enough for a test, should I just shock it first to make sure it's above 3ppm? I let some water out of the filter, it was greenish, I am assuming the source of my algae might be the ones living inside the hayward filter? Should I backwash it first to make sure we get rid of what's in there first, then shock and run the pump to kill what's remaining and start doing test? I don't want to cause imbalance either. Seems like I am in good shape, but I don't think any of the water tests check for algae, why is that? Or it doesn't matter if everything is in good level, there shouldn't be algae?

Thank you @Ahhsomeguy, a lot of great information. Sometimes there is more than bubbles, it seems like it's only filling half-way, does this mean it's not sucking enough? What I noticed is when I let some of the DE out after bumping, it gets more water into the clear plastic window and fills up faster. I will still get a replacement gasket ready. I bought the magic lube as well.

@Getitrite, it's now around $60, it's amazing how prices are going up when it's a unique product but very cheap to manufacture. I will check around and maybe look for a used one, maybe someone is giving up on their pool. If not, I'll grab one and hope it helps.

 

[1poolman1]

I backwashed and recharged it about 2 months ago, the pressure is at about 20, and I was told by the original owner that it would normally sit around 15, and if it goes up, just bump it and it should loosen up and go down.

Lately, I am seeing more air bubble in the pump filter window, turning off, bumping causes the bubble to reduce but it comes back occasionally. Could it be because filter is getting clogged? When I backwashed, I don't believe I got all the DE out, and it's a very old filter I don't want to try to open it up unless I absolutely have to. I was thinking maybe I can ride this pool season, and clean it during closing? Pool is clear, occasionally will start growing some green spots, I just recharge the chlorinator with 2 x 3" tabs and turn the chlorinator to 5 or 6 (7-8 is highest) on my CL200 Chlorine Feeder. This seems to help but I still have to brush daily, vacuum every 2-3 days using Polaris.

I do feel like I may need to get a new pump and equipment next year.
PS: I don't have multi-valve.

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You can't backwash that filter. Unless you have removed all the DE, there is much that remains after you drain it. Hayward came up with this quite a while ago and it works well to really clean the filter. A bit pricey.

Hayward Perflex Cleaning Wand | EC2024

Hayward EC2024 Perflex Cleaning Wand

www.wildwestpoolsupplies.com