Back to square 1 after previous SLAM

berniedp

Silver Supporter
May 3, 2020
66
Saint Johns, FL
Pool Size
6400
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair iChlor 30
Hi all,

On July 26, I successfully completed a SLAM (see: Small spots of algae causing heavy chlorine consumption?).

However, I noticed that my water was again becoming less clear (drop in translucency when the sun hits it) and started measuring overnight loss again - yesterday night, I lost 2.2 so I've kicked off a new cycle of SLAM'ing.

I suspect that I made one mistake during my previous SLAM: I have a waterfall feature that had been switched off for about 2 years and I did not switch it on during my SLAM. While it's always been dripping (see pictures I took as part of my previous SLAM - see the above link) and I have replaced the valve (not the pipe just the mechanism inside it), I took the step of at least weekly switching it on to cycle the water and did just that last weekend.

For this current SLAM, I have opened the valve to cycle the high chlorine water through it - it will obviously increase my pH quite dramatically (I also made the mistake of not lowering my pH ahead of the SLAM, I know, stupid) but I'll take care of that after the SLAM.

My questions:
1° While the water that comes out of the waterfall is clear (not green or anything like it), is it possible that there's something in there that's causing this? And every time I switch it on it releases stuff that's contaminating my pool?
2° As I can't scrub the insides, I guess I'll have to hope that the SLAM chlorine levels will clean it sufficiently?
3° How do I prevent this? We switch off the waterfall because we're not a fan of the noise it makes so perhaps we just need to keep it active just a little bit (but then it will run down the tiles)?

Thanks,
Bernard
 
You have to cycle the waterfall once or twice daily when the chemistry is perfect so just not have what you're describing. Now you'll have to keep it moving to the point it'll clear algae that may be sticking somewhere within the system. It can be the piping or even the area the water lands on. Brushing all those areas is the key to move it along. I'd suggest if you really don't want to use it anymore valve off or whatever it takes to cut the water supply to that direction and be done with it after this round of slam.
 
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Since I've been on my SLAM since last Thursday and I still loose about 3 ppm overnight, I was wondering if I could try the following:
if I switch off the pump and remove the valve mechanism, I would be able to access the pipe going towards my waterfall post which I could then pump out all the water. My idea here is that, if I have it right, algae need the water to survive so removing all the water, then replacing the valve mechanism and keeping it closed for a few weeks would also kill the algae since there's no longer water in the pipe...
Is my theory valid or am I overlooking anything?
My concern is that, since I can't scrub the piping nor the inside of the waterfall thing, I can be slamming my pool for weeks - the water at this point is crystal clear...
Thx,
B.
 
Or another idea - pump out the pipe, measure the amount of water in it and then replace that same amount with a high chlorine mix (say 20%) and pour that back in the pipe and then close the valve...

I really could use some advice - I've been on slam level for 6 days and used about 6 gallons of chlorine (10.5%)...

Thanks
 
My idea here is that, if I have it right, algae need the water to survive so removing all the water, then replacing the valve mechanism and keeping it closed for a few weeks would also kill the algae since there's no longer water in the pipe...
You'll never get it all out, and even if you did, it'll likely condensate enough to at least keep it damp in there, if not actually wet in spots.
Or another idea - pump out the pipe, measure the amount of water in it and then replace that same amount with a high chlorine mix (say 20%) and pour that back in the pipe and then close the valve...
A couple of cycles of SLAM water per day will do the trick.

I bet you could even prove it isn't your sole reason for loss by leaving the waterfall complety off for an OCLT.

Where else could it be hiding in plain sight ? Light niches, ladder rails, stair trim, auto fill, all up in the skimmer including the foam behind the door, your water level ruler ? (Registered Trademark @Dirk Corp)
 
You'll never get it all out, and even if you did, it'll likely condensate enough to at least keep it damp in there, if not actually wet in spots.
You may be right - that was my concerb as well...
I bet you could even prove it isn't your sole reason for loss by leaving the waterfall complety off for an OCLT.

Where else could it be hiding in plain sight ? Light niches, ladder rails, stair trim, auto fill, all up in the skimmer including the foam behind the door, your water level ruler ? (Registered Trademark @Dirk Corp)
It all started after, somewhere in July, I ran my waterfall to cycle water (it had been closed for many months) - that must have flushed something into the pool. Though, to be clear: the water that came out was not at all colored but just triggered my regular pool water to become a bit milky, like it lost it's translucency. Then, with the waterfall valve closed again, I did a SLAM and passed an OCLT.
Then, the weekend before last, I decided to flush the waterfall again and had the exact same issue with the water becoming less translucent... My mistake was that I never considered the waterfall to be full of algae so I didn't leave the waterfall on while doing my SLAM.

So that's when I started the new SLAM but this time with the pump and waterfall running 24/7. And here I am...

As part of my first SLAM, I cleaned everything - filter, filter housing, pump, skimmer, skimmer door foam (left that in pure chlorine for 24 hours though it never had signs of algae, it was just discolored), replace the robot hose (had spares). I haven't yet looked at the light niche - didn't think of that (that's next on my list but need to figure out how to dismantle it) nor have I disassembled the robot (I removed it earlier today so that should take it out of the equation).

Again, I guess my biggest mistake was to close my waterfall for such a long time...

Thanks for your help - if you have other advice, let me know!
 
Hi all - SLAM completed a week ago and in the meantime I worked on adding an actuator on the waterfall valve and integrated it with Home Assistant. Now the waterfall water gets cycled automatically 3 times a day for 1 hour each time.

If anybody is interested in the Home Assistant integration - there's a link in my signature.

All fixed - thanks again for all your support!!!
 
15 mins a day is enough. 15 mins twice a day would be above and beyond ok.
Even better - I was worried about the aeration and it pushing my pH up too quickly so it's good to know 15 mins is sufficient - I'll adjust my automations to 15min morning and evening!

Thank you!!!!
 
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I was worried about the aeration and it pushing my pH up too quickly so it's good to know 15 mins is sufficient
I just threw that # out there. How little time can you program ? It takes literal seconds to clear the pipe and 1 minute would be enough to exchange the water and break free any stagnant growth if it was going to break free.
 

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I just threw that # out there. How little time can you program ? It takes literal seconds to clear the pipe and 1 minute would be enough to exchange the water and break free any stagnant growth if it was going to break free.
I can program it as short or long as I want as I'm just flipping a relay that makes the valve actuator turn either way. It takes the valve, I would say, about 15 seconds to fully open. I guess I could set it to 5 minutes if I want to be on the safe side? That should flush the pipes / waterfall feature and not really have an impact on pH.
 
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