Back on TFP (from SAC) - Where Do You Shop?

[smh60]

The pool service we used closed up business at end of 2021, so I convinced the missus that we should go DIY, and she agreed because she was not happy we had to do a drain & refill at the request of the pool servicer as he had used tabs (like all these weekly services do) and ran up the CYA level to 300+ ppm.

Just got the TF-100 kit and ran it through its panel. CYA = 60-70 it seems, FC=1, CC=2, CH=475, TA=110, pH~7.5-7.6. You get the picture.

Here's my request/question: I am in the Sacramento (south county) area, and I know some here at TFP live in this area. I will be interested in where you are getting your supply of pool chemicals. For chlorine, I have found Lowe's selling 10% hypochlorite for $4.28/gal (brand: Kem-Tek), which seems great since household bleach (with foaming chemicals?) at 4.5-7.5% hypochlorite is priced similarly. I just hope the product has a recent manufacturing date.

Looking forward to keeping a sparkling pool.

 

[newdude]

Hey SMH and welcome back !!! I can't speak to what's available by you in the off season, but HD Lowes a d Walmart are go to staples for many of us looking for 10%. All 3 prioritize moving old stock so always check the Julian codes.

Pool stores and Hasa dealers are also usually good buys for chlorine, and many do large containers (2.5 / 5 gal) for even better buys.

 

[travelfeedsthesoul]

I purchase all my products from Lowe's, Home Depot or Amazon.

Chlorine - Pool Essentials
Muriatic Acid (31.45%) - HDX or Kem-tec
Baking Soda - Arm and Hammer
Calcium - Clorox Pool Calcium Hardness Increaser (4 lb bag)

Some of these can be found cheaper elsewhere but it's not expensive as it is so I make it easy on myself.

I think you'll find using TFP very simple, and SO much cheaper and cleaner instead of paying someone $160-$200+ per month.

 

[newdude]

Also, cuz you're rusty, you'll want to add some FC Pronto. Here is the chart if you don't have it handy already FC/CYA Levels

Everything else looks good except the CCs. and your TA should settle in a bit lower as you manage your PH.

As you've dipped below minimum and now have CCs, an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test is necessary to see if you need to SLAM Process

 

[smh60]

Just wanted to follow up after a month of taking over.

I note that I don't have "green walls" any longer.

My first chlorination with the liquid chlorine test a pool FC = 8 ppm, and the CC test was zero. (I dont believe a slam is necessary.)

I did not intend that high a target FC (was aiming for 4 ppm). My calculation could not have been that far off. I was using Kem-Tec 10% hypochlorite, have estimated a 12,000-13,000 gal pool (will finalize my volume computation using simple CAD once I find it), and that came out to 46 oz of the bleach in a 1 ppm->4 ppm adjustment. So there must have been some other FC "releasing" effect (?) since even if the concentration and pool volume is off by ±15% it would not account for achieving a target of 8 ppm versus 4 ppm. Over time, I expect my chlorination to get better (more accurate pool volume, better understanding of liquid chlorine manufacturer's product levels).

Issues I will soon have questions on are:

1) Checking and washing off the cartridge filter. I once looked at opening the housing but was not sure how to open it...it has some spring on it. I just want to see how clean the cartridges are and then pull them out and hose them off on the lawn. I dont think it's been done in the nearly 3 years we've been here. The backpressure gauge does not seem to indicate a high pressure, but I still want to put an eye on the filters to see what state they are in.

2) I have a Jandy (diverter?) valve that sets off some flow to some rock formation that had been put up on a corner of the pool (a novelty I never liked). It seems to be leaking now (I see water trickling to the rocks in small amounts). I am supposing that like lawn valves, it has some seal that gets caked with a lot of things from algae to whatever (I recently had to deal with servicing my lawn sprinkler valves). Who would supply parts and information about the valve I have?

3) The Pentair pump: also never touched in the nearly 3 years I have been here. I always see pumps as catastrophes waiting to happen if neglected. So I hope to do whatever light maintenance I might do to head off any disaster and keep it nicely operational. It could be that pumps are best just watched until something happens, but then again, someone here may have a better idea. I have not explored all TFP instructional articles/videos yet.

 

[Texas Splash]

I am in the Sacramento (south county) area, and I know some here at TFP live in this area. I will be interested in where you are getting your supply of pool chemicals.

I will modify your thread title to help get more views from the SAC area. Good luck.

 

[Mdragger88]

As mentioned above- follow the FC/CYA Levels
For a cya of 70 your fc minimum is 5ppm (you don’t wanna go near minimum)
Target fc level is 8-10 ppm. Replenish to this level daily.
Do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test w/ fc at target level.
This will remove all doubt of algae lurking.
No need to guess. If u had green before- u definitely need to do the oclt. It will come back to bite u in the long run if u omit this step. You’ll think things are fine & then -Bam - green/cloudy pool

 

[smh60]

As mentioned above- follow the FC/CYA Levels
For a cya of 70 your fc minimum is 5ppm (you don’t wanna go near minimum)
Target fc level is 8-10 ppm. Replenish to this level daily.
Do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test w/ fc at target level.
This will remove all doubt of algae lurking.
No need to guess. If u had green before- u definitely need to do the oclt. It will come back to bite u in the long run if u omit this step. You’ll think things are fine & then -Bam - green/cloudy pool

Will do. Should I do a partial drain and refill to get the CYA down in your estimation?

 

[Mdragger88]

It is a direct % so if you want 20% less cya you would drain 20% of your water.
70 ppm isn’t horrible (just chlorinate accordingly) but it does make a SLAM Process (if u need to do that)a bit more expensive & impractical.

 

[newdude]

Up to you if you want to maintain a higher FC per the FC/CYA Levels a 70 is reasonable on the high side, especially this time of year with much less daily demand. It will decrease 3-5 ppm per month and some more when the spring rains hit. It'll be 50 soon enough.

Or drain 42% / 57% for a 30/40. Or 29% would get you to 50 now and let the rest drift down.