Awful Chemisty What to do?

[mikewen2]

Ugh. High chlorine, high CYA, low pH but high TA. Any ideas of what to do??
25,000 gal vinyl inground
FC 10
CC 0.5
pH 7.0
TA 150
CYA 140
I know a have to to drain to tackle the high CYA. Just don’t know how to raise the pH with the high TA that’s just gonna drive the TA higher. Any suggestions?

 

[Bperry]

Ugh. High chlorine, high CYA, low pH but high TA. Any ideas of what to do??
25,000 gal vinyl inground
FC 10
CC 0.5
pH 7.0
TA 150
CYA 140
I know a have to to drain to tackle the high CYA. Just don’t know how to raise the pH with the high TA that’s just gonna drive the TA higher. Any suggestions?

Welcome! Actually your numbers are quite good. None of it needs to change except the CYA forces you to need fhe higher FC. Lets start with how are you testing?

 

[zea3]

HI, welcome to TFP! Work on replacing the water first, it will change the ph and TA levels. After the water exchange is complete you can test and post the results and we can help you determine where to go from there. As long as the pH is in range and stable the TA doesn't need to be adjusted.
If for some reason you have to exchange water slowly over the course of the pool season, with 140 CYA your target FC is 15-17 ppm.

 

[Mdragger88]

If you’re using trichlor or dichlor- stop
It is acidic & lowers ph.
A ph of 7 is a little low but will rise on its own with ta that high.
You need to replace about 60/70% of the water to get cya into a manageable range so that is what you should address first.
Your fc is not high considering your cya as for maintenance your fc should always be at least 7.5% of your cya level so 10.5ppm in your case.
Note that ph test is invalid at fc levels over 10ppm so this can also make such a high cya level harder to maintain.
See Draining - Further Reading
Specifically the no drain exchange

 

[mikewen2]

Welcome! Actually your numbers are quite good. None of it needs to change except the CYA forces you to need fhe higher FC. Lets start with how are you testing?

I have a Taylor K-2006 test kit with the FAS-DPD test for chlorine.

 

[mikewen2]

I have a Taylor K-2006 test kit with the FAS-DPD test for chlorine.

My first time with trouble free pool. So TFP recommeds using unstabilized chlorine to maintain regular levels correct? Since it’s unstabilized does that mean I can’t add it during the day to the sun degrading it?

 

[mikewen2]

I have a Taylor K-2006 test kit with the FAS-DPD test for chlorine.

What about the low pH and high TA?

 

[PoolStored]

My first time with trouble free pool. So TFP recommeds using unstabilized chlorine to maintain regular levels correct? Since it’s unstabilized does that mean I can’t add it during the day to the sun degrading it?

You can add it anytime!

What about the low pH and high TA?

pH will rise on its own. There are very few times you should chemically raise pH. Keep in in the 7s. When it rises to 8, use muriatic acid to lower to 7.6. Overtime, TA will come down. When TA gets to 60-80, stop lowering pH to 7.6 and only lower to 7.8. With TA 60-80, pH will stabilize somewhere around 7.8-8...which is just fine.

You issue is not pH and TA. Your issue is sanitization. Hop on getting that CYA down. That high and you can't keep enough FC in the pool to sanitize.

Read "No Drain Water Exchange" here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Bperry]

What about the low pH and high TA?

Like mentioned above, the pH and TA are ok and the pH will go up on its own and the TA will so the same as long you maintain the pH to be 7 something.

 

[Mdragger88]

@mikewen2
Once the liquid chlorine is in the water it is protected from the sun by the cya that’s already in the pool.
Add liquid chlorine whenever you need to so you ensure the pool stays sanitary & fc is above minimum for your cya level.