Autopilot with PPC3

vj950

Member
May 28, 2021
5
Ohio
I have PoolPilot Dig 220 SWG which is connected to PPC3 (RC-42). This came with the pool when we bought the house. The cells have been replaced recently.

Upon seeing the check light (Low Amp, Cell?) recently, I ran the test as recommended by the manufacturer. It showed 0V, 0.6 amp. It didn't make sense. So opened the unit and checked the fuses and wiring, all seems ok. I tested the output directly on the board (after opening it) while everything connected as normal. It read 32V. Same reading after disconnecting the cell cord and checking it from the plugs on the cord.

I am completely puzzled. I am assuming that the control unit provides appropriate voltage and amps to the cells to control the intensity and duration of electrolysis. The cell cord appears to be a simple 2 wire connector (one of the wire splits in 2 giving total 3 connectors). There is no "smart" component that can give the feedback to the control unit.

Question:
1. How does the control unit (when testing with boost mode) get feedback on voltage and amps?
2. Seems my control unit is faulty. Could it be that PPC3 is bad instead?
3. Can I connect a 12V (or 24V), 5 amp power supply to the PPC3 directly and use it to manually produce Chlorine without using the controller? I will use my pool automation (which has been working fool-proof for months now) to turn it on or off based on pump speed. I understand there won't be a way to control the production, and it might shorten the lifespan of the cell.
 
If you have 32V with the cell disconnected the cell is depleted and needs to be replaced.

You cannot simply connect a power supply directly to the cell. The control board performs other functions, such as switching the plates' polarity.

Check with these folks and see what they recommend...

 
If you have 32V with the cell disconnected the cell is depleted and needs to be replaced.

You cannot simply connect a power supply directly to the cell. The control board performs other functions, such as switching the plates' polarity.

Check with these folks and see what they recommend...

Thank you for your reply. What is puzzling is that with cord connected to PPC3, I get ~32 volt reading (from banana plug), while the display shows 0 volts.
Another strange thing is that the red terminal at the banana plug is negative with the tester (I understand that polarity will be changed by the controller).