Autopilot not producing chlorine and Tri-Sensor - removal

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Tpham2001

Tpham2001

0
Jul 28, 2012
45
SW Florida
Good morning All,

I have not been able to get my SWG running as it should be...
I added 80# of pool salt previous weekend and this weekend I have algae.
I replaced cell (R35-22) and cable last month.
I tried to remove the Tri-Sensor and I can not get that thing out. I removed the whole assembly (minus the cell) and clamped it on a vise and try to remove it, no go.

I removed the screw, the cable, I checked the screen to make sure it's clean. I will look at the check valve this afternoon.
Also, what orientation should the screen be in, up or down position?

It there anything I could have missed?

Appreciate any advice...
 
Good morning. While I can't offer any mechanical advice on the swg, I can say that SWGs aren't meant to battle algae once its established...they produce small amounts of FC over time...eg mine might produce up to 7.9 ppm over 24 hrs at 100% and its rated for twice my pool's size.

So for the algae, you need to SLAM Process before you can even identify if the swg is generating chlorine or not. I'm assuming you have a TFP test kit (TFTestkits.net) so that you can slam?

If you're not familiar, read through the slam link I posted and post back any questions.

With respect to the swg, can you post a picture to show what you mean, and perhaps explain more what you're wanting to accomplish? In my aquarite, some diagnostics can be performed by reading the voltage on the panel, for example.
 
Swampwoman said:
Good morning. While I can't offer any mechanical advice on the swg, I can say that SWGs aren't meant to battle algae once its established...they produce small amounts of FC over time...eg mine might produce up to 7.9 ppm over 24 hrs at 100% and its rated for twice my pool's size.

So for the algae, you need to SLAM Process before you can even identify if the swg is generating chlorine or not. I'm assuming you have a TFP test kit (TFTestkits.net) so that you can slam?

If you're not familiar, read through the slam link I posted and post back any questions.

With respect to the swg, can you post a picture to show what you mean, and perhaps explain more what you're wanting to accomplish? In my aquarite, some diagnostics can be performed by reading the voltage on the panel, for example.
Click to expand...

Good afternoon,
Thank-you for your response and insight, I've reached the conclusion my SWG is not generating FC is because I added salt and replaced new cell.
If the Tri-Sensor is old (rusted out) and need to be replaced then the system will not produce FC even if its a small amount. To my limited understanding, the Tri-Sensor signal the system to produce FC. The Tri-Sensor is the original, the pool is 10-12 years old. We moved in about 5 years ago and I have not been able to remove it to do an inspection. My SWG is really old, no read out of any kind, just blinking light...

Thanks as always.
 
Swampwoman said:
How To Check an AutoPilot Tri-Sensor - INYOPools.com

So before the algae outbreak, you were reading 0 FC in the water after changing the cell and adding salt, right?
Click to expand...

I've visited the link above and followed the instructions, but no go. I didn't want to put too much force on the assembly in case I break it and have no replacement.
Yes, algae outbreak after I added salt, chlorine, stabilizer, acid. This led me to believe there is something definitely wrong with the Tri-Sensor. Yes, I'm guessing the sensor is the source of the problem and the only way to find out is a visual inspection.

I checked the sensor cable and it's fine, made sure it's plug in correctly and tight.

I'm at a crossroad, go ahead and order the part and remove the old(even if it means cutting out) and replace it. Hate to spend the $ to find out the old sensor is good.

As always, thanks for the response and insights...
 
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