Hello! Looking for some assistance from some experts! I have an Aquatrol version 1.17 (old I know) I recently purchased an aftermarket cell from Active Pool Supply and I was supposed to get a t-5 since the aquatrol calls for that. I installed it the other day but the system is saying salt at 5300. My strips says it is around 3400, so I went to the local pool place to get them to test and to buy some chemicals. Their test says the salt is 4250, which is still high, but the cell shouldn't cut off at that level like its doing now. Based on some reading, I'm wondering if I got the t-15 that some people says happen. If so, I have read that I need to put a jumper at J4. I found that location on my PCB but I don't know what type of jumper to put in. I don't really want to solder. So my question is, do you think its worth for me to try to jump that part somehow to see if it reads better, or should I upgrade the PCB if applicable? If that is the preferred route, what type of PCB do I need to get? Thanks so much for your advice on jumper and/or PCB.
Aquatrol assistance
- Thread starter neilskinner
- Start date
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,000
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,000
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Calling @JamesW
& @ajw22
Until they arrive can you give us this info?
& @ajw22
Until they arrive can you give us this info?
Basic Aqua Trol Diagnostics
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing an problem:- Report all readings when you..
- Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
- Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
- Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
- What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
- What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
CaliMar� Clear Salt Cell Replacement for Hayward® T-CELL-5
When I switched from auto to off the the volts were 30.1 and 0 amps
Back to auto, it goes to 26 and 6.09, very close for other polarity
The cell nor the box came with any numbers.
I was only doing test strips , but I took a sample to a pool store and they used Taylor to get a reading of 4250
one other thing I wanted to mention is that I have a flow meter, and my version is 1.17 and the cell type on the diagnostics says AL-7
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thank you. Main issue is that it only runs for moment because it thinks the salt is too high?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
What are the volts and amps?
The Aquarite does not have a salt sensor. It will shutdown if amps get over 8 to protect itself.
31 and 0 when idle
Seems to shut off if amps get to 6 while volts drop to 25 or 26 . Aquatrol 1.17
Seems to shut off if amps get to 6 while volts drop to 25 or 26 . Aquatrol 1.17
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Drain your pool and lower your salt level until the cell is happy.
Or return the cell and get a genuine Hayward cell.
Or return the cell and get a genuine Hayward cell.
T-9 and T-15 are both 8 amps.
T-3 and T-5 are 5 or 6 amps.
You can lower the salinity or jump the J-4.
- AL-6 means regular Aquatrol with a flow switch.
- AL-7 means AquaTrol RJ (Return Jet with no flow switch).
That’s the weird part. I have a flow switch. I wonder if someone replaced the PCB with the wrong one. Also, If I wanted to jump it, do I have to solder or can I buy a jumper?
Is the cell mounted below a return?
What happens if you disconnect the flow switch?
If you have pins, you can use a jumper.
If no pins, you need to solder.
If you cannot solder, take it to a repair place.
Note: I am not recommending that you jump the J4.
You have to do your own research and decide if it is what you want to do.
This is your own decision and your own risk.
It will void any warranty.
If it was the other board, the version would say AL-6.
- AL-6 means regular Aquatrol with a flow switch.
- AL-7 means AquaTrol RJ (Return Jet with no flow switch).
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,062
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
If you have a flow switch which shows NO FLOW when disconnected from the board then you have an HP board.
The boards look the same.
The main difference is the program setting.
AL-7 is the RJ model.
What happens if you disconnect the flow switch plug?
I will try that tonight. Right now, it acts like its reading the flow. It starts out red with "no flow", then it picks up a flow and then it starts generating( for a few minutes anyway, until it reads high salt)
