Hi All, first time poster. I've got an Aquarite salwater chlorinator system and with a 3 year old Hayward Goldline T-Cell-15 TurboCell installed. I'm getting a reading of 2700 for my chlorination on the control unit, but have constantly flashing "Inspect Cell" and "Low Chlorine" lights. Is it safe to say my TurboCell is kaput and needs replaced?
Aquarite System Question
- Thread starter Tpbyers
- Start date
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
What is the T-cell size?
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
tftestkits.net
CHECK SALT When flashing, the salt level is low (below 2700 ppm) and Aqua Rite is generating at low efficiency.
When illuminated steady, the salt level is too low and Aqua Rite has shut down.
To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that you open and visually inspect the cell every 3 months or after cleaning your filter.
The Aqua Rite® will remind you to do this by flashing the "Inspect Cell" LED after approximately 500 hours of operation.
After you inspect the cell (and clean, if necessary) press the small "diagnostic" button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the flashing "Inspect Cell" LED and start the timer for the next 500 hours.
Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Report all readings.
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?
What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?
What is the T-cell size?
Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?
To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.
You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.
You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
tftestkits.net
CHECK SALT When flashing, the salt level is low (below 2700 ppm) and Aqua Rite is generating at low efficiency.
When illuminated steady, the salt level is too low and Aqua Rite has shut down.
To maintain maximum performance, it is recommended that you open and visually inspect the cell every 3 months or after cleaning your filter.
The Aqua Rite® will remind you to do this by flashing the "Inspect Cell" LED after approximately 500 hours of operation.
After you inspect the cell (and clean, if necessary) press the small "diagnostic" button next to the display for 3 seconds to stop the flashing "Inspect Cell" LED and start the timer for the next 500 hours.
James-thanks for the quick reply and guidance. I have ordered the taylor kit and speed stirrer. In the meantime, I'll run through your steps and report readings back shortly.
I'm using a T-Cell-15 TurboCell (Hayward brand).
I'm using a T-Cell-15 TurboCell (Hayward brand).
James-
I was able to work through the initial steps you identified and gather some addtl info and readings:
My system is an Aquarite MS-11. I took pictures of the door panel as i wasn't sure which of the numbers you were inquiring about:
I worked through the steps you identified and recorded readings this morning:
I'm still waiting on the kit to get here to check the actual salt in the pool water.
What do you think? Is my cell dead?
I was able to work through the initial steps you identified and gather some addtl info and readings:
My system is an Aquarite MS-11. I took pictures of the door panel as i wasn't sure which of the numbers you were inquiring about:
I worked through the steps you identified and recorded readings this morning:
| Reading | Initial Check in Auto Position | Re-Check in Off Position | Re-Check After Returning to Auto |
| Mineral Count | 2600 | 2600 | 2700 |
| Water Temp | 77 | 77 | 77 |
| Volts | 31.6 | 26.2 | 26.2 |
| Amps | 0 | 5.66 | 5.51 |
| % Output/Energized | 37P | 36P | 35P |
| Instant Salinity | -0 | -2800 | -2700 |
| Product ID | AL - 0 | AL - 0 | AL - 0 |
| Chip Revision Code | r 1,59 | r 1.59 | r 1.59 |
| Cell Model | t-15 | t-15 | t-15 |
I'm still waiting on the kit to get here to check the actual salt in the pool water.
What do you think? Is my cell dead?
I think that the cell is likely to be ok, but we need the actual salinity to know for sure.
When you get the actual salinity reading, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity.
If the result is 0.75 or lower, the cell is bad.
If the result is higher than 0.75, the cell is still working well enough to keep using.
What are the first 7 characters of the cell serial number?
It should begin with something like 3E17.
When you get the actual salinity reading, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity.
If the result is 0.75 or lower, the cell is bad.
If the result is higher than 0.75, the cell is still working well enough to keep using.
What are the first 7 characters of the cell serial number?
It should begin with something like 3E17.
Think you'll likely need to add a bag of salt so you keep the salt level above the first low salt threshold (below 2700 ppm) where the low salt light starts blinking.
You can reset the Inspect cell light by pressing the diagnostics button for about 3 seconds as shown in this video.
James: Here's a pic of the cell serial # (I think). The bar code # is 3E15035-201307, if that is the serial #.
Regarding the "Inspect Cell" light, I cleaned the cell on Sunday and I've reset it several times since, but it keeps coming on.
Regarding adding a bag of salt, I'm not surprised. For the opening, we were right at the minimum with the existing water and I only added one bag during opening. So, it would make sense it may need another. I was holding off to make sure the cell was working before I did that.
When I test the water with a test stick, I'm showing just on the lower end of "ideal" for the chlorinity result. When the salt test kit comes this weekend, I can get a reading on the salt levels in the water.
Regarding adding a bag of salt, I'm not surprised. For the opening, we were right at the minimum with the existing water and I only added one bag during opening. So, it would make sense it may need another. I was holding off to make sure the cell was working before I did that.
When I test the water with a test stick, I'm showing just on the lower end of "ideal" for the chlorinity result. When the salt test kit comes this weekend, I can get a reading on the salt levels in the water.
OK, 3E15035 means that it was made on the 35th day of 2015, which makes it over 6 years old.
In any case, the the best way to tell if the cell is OK is to divide the instant salinity in both polarities by the actual salinity to get the performance percentage in both polarities.
Ideally, you want 90 to 100%
80 to 90 percent is underperforming, but useable.
Below 75% means that the cell is mostly gone.
Some people change the cell type to a T-9 to squeeze a little bit more life from the cell by making it read higher salinity.
In any case, the the best way to tell if the cell is OK is to divide the instant salinity in both polarities by the actual salinity to get the performance percentage in both polarities.
Ideally, you want 90 to 100%
80 to 90 percent is underperforming, but useable.
Below 75% means that the cell is mostly gone.
Some people change the cell type to a T-9 to squeeze a little bit more life from the cell by making it read higher salinity.
Note: The original box is from February 2006 but the main circuit board has been replaced.
Yes, that would make sense on the box. I inherited the pool when I bought the house. I replaced the circuit board a few years back when the original one was fried in a lightening storm (actually had a great experience working with a Hayward tech via phone to walk me through it). I keep an extra circuit board and cell in the garage just in case I need them as they always seem to go out at the most inconvenient times.