Aquarite SWG Question

Jul 15, 2017
8
Bishop, GA
I am very thankful to this site because our SWG has lasted the past ten years. Over the past ten years, I have soldered the thermistor at least four times, maybe more, and it has always done the trick, but I am not a master solderer, and now that I am getting the PCB error message again, I believe it's time to break down and get a new control board.

Here is my question. When I unplug the T-15 Cell from the control board, the top two or three "prongs" out of ten are brown/burnt but the other seven look fine. If I did get a new control board, would this cell still work or does it sound like I need to break down and purchase a brand new entire system? I feel like these prongs where it connects to the board have been like this a while, and I feel like it has worked in the past like this, but maybe I am wrong. Any advice would be much appreciated.
 
How old is the cell itself, if you are not sure post the serial number and we can determine the age of the cell from that?

A new cell and board will cost around $800ish and have a one year warranty. A new system costs around $1300ish and should have a three year warranty.
 
How old is the cell itself, if you are not sure post the serial number and we can determine the age of the cell from that?

A new cell and board will cost around $800ish and have a one year warranty. A new system costs around $1300ish and should have a three year warranty.

Thanks for your reply! The cell is four years old, and upon inspection, there is no significant buildup. I have a feeling that the faulty board that I have repaired a few times is the cause of the connection being a little "toasty" at the top. I have attached an image from someone else that had this problem. Mine doesn't look quite this bad. Do you know if the cell would still function with a connection like this, or is it a lost cause and I need to start with a new cell and board?
 

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Never attempt to use a cell with a burned plug on a new controller bd or vice versa. It will not establish good contact and will eventually burn again.
You might be able to squeeze the life (if any remaining) for both the pcb and cell if you can solder.
The connector header on the pcb is Molex 00015246101, Digi-Key Part# WM7188-ND. I got mine from here and it's an exact fitment except it's off white. But it worked!
As to the cell plug, you need to replace it. You will need a Molex AB crimper but you can probably get away with solder.
Everything you need to know can be found here> Burnt T-Cell Connector Plug
Replace the pcb and salt cell if you are not comfortable in soldering. The choice is yours!
 
Never attempt to use a cell with a burned plug on a new controller bd or vice versa. It will not establish good contact and will eventually burn again.
You might be able to squeeze the life (if any remaining) for both the pcb and cell if you can solder.
The connector header on the pcb is Molex 00015246101, Digi-Key Part# WM7188-ND. I got mine from here and it's an exact fitment except it's off white. But it worked!
As to the cell plug, you need to replace it. You will need a Molex AB crimper but you can probably get away with solder.
Everything you need to know can be found here> Burnt T-Cell Connector Plug
Replace the pcb and salt cell if you are not comfortable in soldering. The choice is yours!

Thanks for this detailed reply. I think I will just replace the pcb and salt cell just because of the ages of both involved. Is there any reason to purchase a completely new system? What would that come with other than just the main things of a pcb and salt cell?
 
Thanks for this detailed reply. I think I will just replace the pcb and salt cell just because of the ages of both involved. Is there any reason to purchase a completely new system? What would that come with other than just the main things of a pcb and salt cell?

The standoffs for the display boards connection to the PCB get brittle and loose causing problems. Given the overheating in your system if you want it reliable for a few years get a complete new system. And keep your salinity at the low end of the range.
 
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