Aquarite SWCG, New T-CELL15, 0 Salt Reading

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T

the12volt

0
Apr 10, 2015
15
Mandeville, LA
About a week and a half ago I started to notice some green algae forming in my pool on the tanning ledge. The salt level on my Aquarite read 2900, so I added a 40 lb bag of salt. The following day it still read 2900 and the algae was getting worse even after scrubbing. I tested my water and found the FC was very low, so I went to Home Depot and picked up some 10% liquid chlorine and started adding it to my pool using the calculator on this site. The following day the pool looked great and I have been adding it every evening to maintain my FC level.

A day later when I had time, I started troubleshooting the issue with my SWCG. A little over 3 years ago, I replaced the original Hayward cell with a CompuPool cell and it has worked fine, but after I everything I could find in this forum, I decided to order a new Hayward T-CELL15 since the original one worked for more than 8 years, even though the CompuPool cell still looks like new on the inside.

The new Hayward cell came today. I swapped it out and I still have the same issue. 0 salt reading and 30 seconds or so after it clicks, the check salt and inspect cell LED's come on. I checked the inrush current limiter (which I replaced twice in the past already) and it looks fine (unlike the previous times when it needed to be replaced), but I haven't tested it with my meter. I've tried to recalibrate the salt level, but that does nothing. It just stays at 0.

I followed the steps in this thread: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/101173-Aqua-Rite-reading-zero-salt Here are my readings:
0
94
32.4
0.00
62P
-0
AL-0
r 1.40

0
94
32.1
0.00
54P
-0
AL-0
r 1.40

0
94
32.4
0.00
55P
-0
AL-0
r 1.40

0
94
32.2
0.00
54P
-0
AL-0
r 1.40

Also, when I installed the new cell, I followed the illustrated instructions showing the square bulge side (side with harness) on the output side of the flow. In the past, both cells were connected with the harness side on the input side of the flow. I haven't tried flipping the new cell around yet, and not sure if it matters.

Any help resolving this issue will be greatly appreciated.
 
Must be a problem in the controller, but I am not sure what.

I do not think that the orientation of the cell matters.
I do recall reading about having the cell on the "bottom" if the cell was horizontal so that any gasses could not be trapped in the cell at low flow rates ... hopefully that makes sense ... talking about how the cell is not centered on the pipe connections.
 
Just checked the inrush current limiter with my meter and it is good as I suspected. Shortly after I turn the switch from off to auto, the no flow LED comes on, then as soon as the no flow LED goes off, the generating LED comes on, then you can hear it click, then about 30 seconds later the generating LED turns off and the check salt and inspect cell LED's come on.

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the reply, jblizzle. I've been suspecting it's the controller, but obviously hopping for a simple, less expensive solution than replacing it.
 
I'll go take the readings now before the generating LED turns off. I haven't gotten the water tested for the salt level, but up until it started displaying 2900 a week and a half ago, it was at 3200 the week prior and working fine. I added two 40 lb bags since it said 2900 in the past 10 days, so I'm sure it is still well within operating range and definitely not zero.
 

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the12volt said:
I couldn't wait and just ordered a new PCB. It should be here by this time next week. I'll update this thread after I install it.
Click to expand...
My pool builder mentioned that there's a resistor on the control panel board that will typically go out. Said it's easily repairable and gave name for guy local that can repair. Too late for you but maybe have someone check out your current board and see if can be fixed, then have on hand if your replacement board chokes down the road.

BTW, how much was the PCB?
 
@OP,
Based on the diagnostic, your salt cell does not have the DC voltage needed to function.
The symptoms correlate to either of the following;

1. Bad In-Rush Current Limiter (RZ3)
2. K1 or K2 Bad solder (most likely suspect)
3. Logic Controller failure (worse case scenario)

The replacement board should fix this issue. If you're technically inclined, you might save the existing board by inspecting the solder or by replacing the relay if determined faulty.
 
Thanks for your reply Meadow. I pulled the PCB this morning and found a large burnt trace on the back of the board from the bottom relay to the cell connection and obvious damage to several tiny traces above it. Replacing the relay and/or repairing the large trace would be fairly simple, but there's no telling how much damage was done elsewhere when this thing lit up. Thankfully a new PCB is on its way and I have enough chlorinating liquid to get me through next week. Also feeling good about purchasing a new Hayward cell last week. Hopefully I can get another 8+ years of service out of the two.
 
There is probably nothing wrong with the relay. As to the AQR, the relay contact points carry the high current to the cell and over time, the solder joint gets weaker and weaker resulting in cold solder due to overheating. The excessive heat travels to the solder pads causing the brown or burnt marks.

You can restore the board by cleaning the brown marks with Acetone and cotton swabs. Use fine grits sandpaper to clean around the solder joint if necessary. As you may have noticed, the relay and thermistor solder lands are quite large and double-sided via through hole making it difficult for noobs to solder. The wattage of the soldering iron is one of the most important factors to consider. A little glob of solder is temporary and often, destructive. At the minimum, a 60 watts soldering iron or 2 of the 40 watts at the same time will do you a clean solder like a pro.
 
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