Aquarite Not generating - lights not on
- Thread starter west1745
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That's the culprit. Mine wasn't cracked, but, it was brittle when I removed it. There was also slight burn marks on the circuit board where it was soldered.
For those of you new to soldering, one trick that helped me was to make sure you are pulling up the current limiter as you are heating up the solder holding it down. In my case, there wasn't even enough solder to warrant using a plunger. Just watch the wiring at the base of the limiter though, because it gets pretty hot.
For those of you new to soldering, one trick that helped me was to make sure you are pulling up the current limiter as you are heating up the solder holding it down. In my case, there wasn't even enough solder to warrant using a plunger. Just watch the wiring at the base of the limiter though, because it gets pretty hot.
The easiest way to remove a component that size is to clip the legs (leave 'em long) and desolder one at a time.
I replaced the Inrush resistor and . . . nothing happened. I noted the LEDs lit up but the no-flow light was flashing off and on. I checked the pressure of the system (scientifically by placing my hand on one of the jets) and noted it was low. There was too much DE in the filter. This was replaced and now things are working very well. Not too hard to remove the old unit but the soldering iron needs to be hot and tinned.
Same part # for the aqua trol by Hayward? I am having the same symptoms as the others in this thread. Looks like the same exact part in the aqua trol.
TIA, Jeff
TIA, Jeff
Symptoms are the same, and the board looks the same too. I found this too during a Google search on the Trol too:
http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/aqtpoweren.htm
My guess is it's the same part.
http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en ... 70-1062-ND
http://www.manulabo.com/Hayward/aqtpoweren.htm
My guess is it's the same part.
http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en ... 70-1062-ND
I ordered a few as my dad has an aqua trol also so I'll have some for the future. Neighbor has finally gotten on board also and is getting one too..
I know the original question was posted 4 years ago, but wow, I just found exactly the information I was looking for on here and it was so helpful! My pool and Aquarite Chlorinator are now 7 years old. We recently replaced the cell and haven't had a problem until the current limiter went bad. We wouldn't even have known what that was without this site. I found the information and ordered the Digi-Key part and my husband just finished the job. We're back in business. Everyone's posts were helpful, thanks!
It works for the aqua trol also. Back in business after about 10 min.. Have a couple extra for next time lol. Mine looked fine but broke in 2 pieces when I grabbed it.. Such an easy fix..
I've done three of these in the last 2 weeks, and saved my clients LOTS of money. Thanks for the info, and here is a little of my own.
If you have this unit, I would check the joint NOW. One of these, I just fixed a bad solder joint. Did not even have to replace the part. On the others, it seemed that one was badly soldered, and the other had just failed. I could see the bad joint on the one, and being that I can do this in about 20 minutes, I decided to give it a shot (and the resistance checked out on my ohm meter).
On the one that was badly soldered and failed, I believe that it was shorting for a while, and just overheated.
If you have this unit, I would check the joint NOW. One of these, I just fixed a bad solder joint. Did not even have to replace the part. On the others, it seemed that one was badly soldered, and the other had just failed. I could see the bad joint on the one, and being that I can do this in about 20 minutes, I decided to give it a shot (and the resistance checked out on my ohm meter).
On the one that was badly soldered and failed, I believe that it was shorting for a while, and just overheated.
First time on and I thought that the info you guys shared sounded exacly like what mine was doing. So, I just installed a new CL and no go.
So it looks like the flow switch plug into the board is corroded and one of the wires in it is bent down as to not connect.
Has anyone replaced that plug in part before?
Shoot, I thought I had it!
So it looks like the flow switch plug into the board is corroded and one of the wires in it is bent down as to not connect.
Has anyone replaced that plug in part before?
Shoot, I thought I had it!
I haven't but I'm sure I read someone's post who had, so if you go back through the posts, I think you'll find one.
so after replacing the current limiter, I had power to the board but red on the flow switch. Looking at the flow switch plug in to the board found the recepticle corroded and one of the pins bent, tried to fix but the pine broke off.
Now I'm going to just purchase a new main board, reader board and flow switch. I found a good deal on amazon for all three parts for $365, not too bad and I'll keep the old ones for parts.
Hope this might help, thank to all!
Now I'm going to just purchase a new main board, reader board and flow switch. I found a good deal on amazon for all three parts for $365, not too bad and I'll keep the old ones for parts.
Hope this might help, thank to all!
I had exactly the problem described by west1745 and fixed it for a few dollars (and some soldering) using Digi-Key Corp. part# 570-1062-ND, as described previously.
My entire display is out, no lights no display, no nothing, I have power at the main board, could the current limiter be the problem here too?
The board at the connection point of the current limiter is dis-colored...
Thanks in advance!
The board at the connection point of the current limiter is dis-colored...
Thanks in advance!
sehale said:
Just wanted to throw my experience in because it was the same as sehale. Exacty same symptoms and the limiter looked fine until I took it off and noticed the crack. Re-soldered the digikey part and was back working again for $8 including shipping. Thanks to everybody for posting about this because it saved me $250.
Just wanted to thank you all for the information. I had the same issue with no power. I ordered a resistor and solder in place of old one... We are back in business....
Total cost including buying a soldering iron, solder and part.... $30.00... Nearly 1/2 the price of a service call charge!!!
Thanks again....
Total cost including buying a soldering iron, solder and part.... $30.00... Nearly 1/2 the price of a service call charge!!!
Thanks again....
Since the display is out, try replacing the 20 amp mini fuse first., Then proceed with replacing the current limiterkingbutthd said:
So you all may be a bit amused by my ongoing saga.
I purchased a new board and flow switch, for what I thought was a good price on amazon. While waiting for the parts to arrive I, of course, added clorine to keep the pool sanitized in the interim.
Well, kids were in the pool at night so I left the heater on and woke up to my daughter screaming "FIRE!!!"
Went outside to find all pool equipment in a raging fire! Everything burnt to the ground.
Apparently the electric heat pump locked up and eginitied the freon which acted like a blow torch.
I'd send you pics, but I don't know how to attach to this blog.
So the claim will be about 25k and I have a 5k deduct!! SUCKS a lot!
here's what Im getting now!
Hayward C4030 Cartridge Filter
Hayward Heat Pump 110K BTU
Booster Pump for Polaris
Filter Pump 1HP Dyna Pro
Waterfall Pump 3/4HP Dyna Pro
(2) Color Logic 100ft Lights
Prologic 8 Function with salt and remote
(7) 2’’ Valves @ $82.00 each
Safety Cover- Dura Mesh
Vacuum Hose 40ft
Gunite Vacuum Head
(5) #10 Winter Plugs
Electrical Junction box for light
Caulking 99ft @ $9.80
Rental of Pool Filtration System (PER DAY $250.00)
Orientation of Prologic
6 Hours Installation @ $165.00 per hour
Electrical Quote from Wires, Inc.
Because of the condition of the job site, there may be additional charges to this original estimate. Some things may not have been visible during the first estimate of damages. Homeowner is responsible for all clean up and disposable. Homeowner will have all area prepped and clean with concrete pads for Swimstyle installation of equipment.
$1,500.00
$4,500.00
$725.00
$950.00
$900.00
$2,495.00
$5,075.00
$574.00
$3,275.00
$68.14
$22.16
$17.50
$47.00
$970.20
$250.00
$165.00
$990.00
TBD
I purchased a new board and flow switch, for what I thought was a good price on amazon. While waiting for the parts to arrive I, of course, added clorine to keep the pool sanitized in the interim.
Well, kids were in the pool at night so I left the heater on and woke up to my daughter screaming "FIRE!!!"
Went outside to find all pool equipment in a raging fire! Everything burnt to the ground.
Apparently the electric heat pump locked up and eginitied the freon which acted like a blow torch.
I'd send you pics, but I don't know how to attach to this blog.
So the claim will be about 25k and I have a 5k deduct!! SUCKS a lot!
here's what Im getting now!
Hayward C4030 Cartridge Filter
Hayward Heat Pump 110K BTU
Booster Pump for Polaris
Filter Pump 1HP Dyna Pro
Waterfall Pump 3/4HP Dyna Pro
(2) Color Logic 100ft Lights
Prologic 8 Function with salt and remote
(7) 2’’ Valves @ $82.00 each
Safety Cover- Dura Mesh
Vacuum Hose 40ft
Gunite Vacuum Head
(5) #10 Winter Plugs
Electrical Junction box for light
Caulking 99ft @ $9.80
Rental of Pool Filtration System (PER DAY $250.00)
Orientation of Prologic
6 Hours Installation @ $165.00 per hour
Electrical Quote from Wires, Inc.
Because of the condition of the job site, there may be additional charges to this original estimate. Some things may not have been visible during the first estimate of damages. Homeowner is responsible for all clean up and disposable. Homeowner will have all area prepped and clean with concrete pads for Swimstyle installation of equipment.
$1,500.00
$4,500.00
$725.00
$950.00
$900.00
$2,495.00
$5,075.00
$574.00
$3,275.00
$68.14
$22.16
$17.50
$47.00
$970.20
$250.00
$165.00
$990.00
TBD
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