Aquarite Not generating - lights not on

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Bill Murray

Member
Apr 10, 2011
5
Hi PSG:

Well, I determined that without the switch thingie my Flow Switch was not going to work anyway and that was verified by my electrician buddie who dropped by today.

Went to the local pool supply place and they had plenty of the switches in stock so I reckon it is not that rare an occurence. Apparently the switch is rather fragile and if you have a strong water flow through the cell, which I do, it can eventually break off the switch from the head of the probe unit.

Anyway, replaced the switch myself a couple of hours ago and all is well again. Need to add 80 lbs of salt to get the reading up where I like it but otherwise all systems are go.

Thanks again for your help.

Bill....
 

Bill Murray

Member
Apr 10, 2011
5
Hi PSG:

Not to beat this thread to death, but, the salt reading has been a steady 3500 since about 10:00 this morning and the pool has cleared up tremendously.

The Ecojet Plus that I got from the manufacturer last Thursday has finally come into it's element as well.
Apparently it was originally set up for a circular/oval pool and mine is rectangular. After several hours of the robot going from one side to the other in a straight line and only covering about 10% of the pool, I finally understood the instructions and moved the pivot pin for the front wheels to the forward position which gave it an "X" degree deflection to the left and now it covers the whole pool in 2 hours and has competely cleaned the bottom and 75% of the sides.

A bit sad really in that the instructions for a $900 unit are quite generic. "If you have this model, do this if you have that model do that" and it does not specify the model I actually have.

I expect that in a $300 cell phone, not a $900 rather specific brand of pool cleaner.

Again, thanks for the help.

Bill
 

Poolschoolgrad

Well-known member
Oct 4, 2010
317
Georgia
Bill

Glad the Aquarite is working properly again. A salinity of 3200 ppm is the ideal level for the Aquarite. :wink:

I agree with you 100% about the lack of instructions and documentation on many products we use daily. :rant:
Forums like this one are a great resource for the DIY pool owner.
I am sure that your post will be of help for Ecojet plus user in the future. Thanks for posting your observations, adjustments, and results.

I want to encourage you to take a look at the information in pool school on this site.
Even with a salt system, proper water balance must be maintained to ensure the safety and comfort of those who enjoy your pool. There is a wealth of information about how to maintain your pool to get the most out of your salt system. Proper water balance will also extend the life of your expensive salt cell.

Now that you have become proficient at replacing the flow switch on your salt system; and understand the satisfaction of doing things for yourself, the next logical step is to invest in a good test kit and learn how to properly balance the water in your pool without having to rely on the pool store.

Click on the link below for more info:
pool-school/pool_test_kit_comparison

PSG
 

PoolBoi

In The Industry
Dec 9, 2010
6
Does anyone have a link to a troubleshooting guide on the goldline salt system? I'm looking for one with the flow chart similar to the one I found on here for the jandy system. Thanks!!
 

sirfoy3rd

New member
Jun 6, 2011
1
Thank you so much for posting this information. I purchased the part from DigiKey. It did the trick and now works like a champ. I did not solder the part on. The old part just fell into pieces and left the 1 inch metal probes exposed from the circuit board. I just used crimp connectors and crimped on the new part. Works perfectly. Took maybe 5 mins to do this way. Hope this helps. Saved me $600+ for a new circuit board. Thanks again.
 

lydiast

New member
Jun 6, 2011
1
Hi
just replaced main PCB board and display board doesn't seem to be working. Cannot set main board to T-15 cell. The display does not seem to show any T cell numbers. Display button switch does not work.

configured everything according to repair spec

Help. Any thoughts are appreciated. :(

Mike
 

relepper

New member
Jun 8, 2011
1
Just here to post another success story with the Digikey Current Limiter replacement. Solder'd off the old, solder on the new, all is well. Thanks to everyone who contributed.

Rick
 

Rick Yanez

New member
Jun 11, 2011
1
Re: Aquarite Not generating - lights on and no flow light al

Hello,

My problem is solid No flow light, I replaced the FS and jumped the input with a phone jack but still no flow.
Scanned the board and identified that the current limiter is physically solid and without any external looking damage, I did notice that a Yellow wire that was above it has a black burnt mark on the insulation (maybe a sign) but the wire is fine, I further measured the impedence at 4.5 ohms across, the data sheet calls for 2.5 ohms, could this also be my problem?
I ordered new one from Digikey but I am wondering if its something else? in the mean time, have to add shock, not a problem but just want it working again....

Thank you in advanced,

Rick
 

bklaes

New member
Jun 12, 2011
2
My display readout says -pcb-. Power light is on, so are all the bottom red ones.
Tech support was nice enough, but offered no advice other than to replace the board.
From the advice on this board and for only $8, I have a black resistor on order from Digi-key, though mine shows no cracks.
While I wait for the replacement to arrive in a few days... any thoughts?
Ebay has refurb boards for $78... any body tried one?

Thanks in advance,
Bill [but not the one above!] :)
 

bklaes

New member
Jun 12, 2011
2
Good news. The black resistor replacement revived my Aquarite as well.
I learned a lesson that might be helpful. After re-install I got erratic readings. I re-removed the face plate and found my error.

During re-install I mistakenly placed the board behind the retaining plate, prohibiting proper seating of the white cell plug - It couldn't fully reach it's female receptacle because the board was positioned too far to the rear of the box. After moving the board in front of the plate, the plug could fully reach and readings went back to normal.

Thanks to all who post here.
Bill K
 

vftg

New member
Jun 24, 2011
1
Thank you all for the advice on the current limiting resistor. My system had the same symptoms so I checked the 2 Ohm resistor with a meter and found it to be open circuit. There were no burn marks or cracks. I ordered 3 from DigiKey so I have a spare and one for a friend who has the same box. This was the only site I found that had information on this subject, so thanks again! :cheers:
 

jmarrero

New member
Jul 6, 2011
1
Hi, I am having the same problem. Power light not turned on the the "black thing" inside the box is cracked. Can someone tell me how they replaced it? I don't mean the ordering part I mean the actual replacing. Can I do it manually or do I need some type of special instrument? Please can someone tell me?

I would GREATLY appreciate it!
 

ykcpeggy

Member
Apr 28, 2010
8
It does require a soldering gun. It took my husband about 5 min. to do it. I'm sorry I'm not more helpful. I found the problem and the part...he fixed it! I think there is another thread that gives better instruction. Good luck!
 

golfer50

New member
Jul 26, 2011
2
Another satisfied customer. I had exactly the same problem as everyone who said the NO FLOW light flashed several seconds then went off, then the generating light came on for a few seconds, went off, then no lights at all. Like several other people did, I ordered the Current Limiter, the round black thing about the size of a quarter. Actually, I accidently ordered two packs of two, so I received four of them. Soldered one into the board, after unsoldering the old one, of, course, and VOILA!!! Everything started working again.Salt levels were reading within limits within a couple hours, Both the Generating and Super Chlorinating lights worked, and within 24-36 hours, my pool was and IS crystal clear again. OH, and I did order a new circuit board, nonreturnable, so I have that. I got that before I heard about the current limiter. So, I'll hang onto that. Like I said, I do have three more of those limiters. If anyone thinks it will help them, let me know. I'll throw one in an envelope and send it to you, no charge. They're only like $2-3, anyway. Trust me, the Pinch-A-Penny pool stores around here, Tampa, Florida area, want to sell you a whole new setup for around $1200. I just want to thank everyone for giving me the info I needed to fix my Aqua Rite Chlorine Generator. Dan
 

uva

New member
Jul 27, 2011
1
Another success story! Central Virginia heat wave 100+ 3 straight days. Pool starts getting cloudy water. This NEVER happens since I got the salt generator 3 years ago. Control board - no lights on. Reset - flashing no flow x 30 sec then no lights or generating x 10 sec. Low volts and 0 amps. Google search: troubleshoot goldline aquarite. Second listing leads me here for complete answer and $10 fix (including tax and priority USPS shipping from digikey). Ordered online Saturday pm - new current limiter(and spare) arrived this am(Wednesday). Generator back on in <30min. The old limiter looked fine initially. Was burned on back of PCB and several cracks on back of part. Thanks to all posters.
 

Uteman

New member
Jul 28, 2011
1
First time pool owner and a bit overwhelmed this year with all of the problems that I've run into. I just joined TFP because of this very post (Aqua Rite not working). You guys are awesome and just saved me a ton of frustration and money. Long story short, the digikey part arrived, quick solder job and everything lit up for the first time!

I had it on Super Chlorinate last night and the box was quite warm this morning. I don’t know if that’s normal or not being that it hasn’t worked before. I’m concerned about how hot it might get in the heat of the day. I'll keep an eye on it before attempting to vent it and do something I regret. Thanks again all!
 
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