AquaRite not generating chlorine

[Mandrake]

Hi,

For a month now my six year old AquaRite stopped generating chlorine. I purchased a new Hayward T-15 cell, and replaced the old one, but the "Generating Chlorine" LED only lights up after start up and then turns OFF.
The Check Salt LED turns RED, and Inspect Cell LED turns orange.
My system shows salinity level of 1800, but when I measured salinity using Taylor kit, I get between 3200 and 3400.

I called Hayward, and they gave me the number of their local service provider who I also called, and they suggested that I may not be generating chlorine because my CYA is low, or I have phosphates.
My CYA is low (can not even measure it), but it was always like that, and that did not influence my chlorine level in the past (typically btw 1-3). I don't think that phosphates are problem either.

My guess is that AquaRite shows the wrong Salt Level, and hence does not produce chlorine, but maybe I am wrong. Does anyone know how to fix/calibrate the salt level in AquaRite, or have any other suggestion?

Thanks,​

M.

 

[mknauss]

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Read the wiki article above and run the diagnostics. Post them here.

You really should have CYA in the pool water and run FC based on that CYA - FC/CYA Levels

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Switching the unit off and then back on makes the unit reverse polarity.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell in each polarity, divide the instant salinity reading in each polarity by the actual salinity reading.

For example, if the instant reading is 3,300 ppm and the actual salinity reading is 3,300 ppm, then the salt cell is working at 100%.

However, if the actual salinity was 3,800 ppm, then the performance percentage is 86.8%.

Anything over 75% is acceptable.

At75%, or lower, in either polarity, it's time to consider replacing the cell.

The instant salinity in both polarities should be about the same (+/- about 200 ppm).

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.