Aquarite Electronic Chlorine Generator

[AZTeach]

Hello, I bought this house a couple of years ago and the chlorine generator has been working just fine. I bought a new salt cell the end of last summer. Now i am having a problem with the generator working correctly. I've had the salt cell checked and it is fine. The salt was high but I have now got it down to 3000.

When I turn on the pump, the salt read out displays 4800 always. The no flow light will blink red for a few minutes and then it will have the green light on for generating chlorine. That will stay on for about 20-30 seconds and then go off. The power light is NOT on at all. I am currently using a salt cell that I know does not work while I figure this out and I'm adding chlorine. Any ideas?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
How did you test the salinity of the pool water?
I believe the unit will give you a set of diagnostics. Try to get those.
Let's ask @JamesW for his guidance.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[JamesW]

What are the diagnostic readings?

What cell did you get?

 

[wbrooks]

If your symptom is that the no flow light comes on briefly, and the power and generating lights are or go off (so you have no lights and no generation) the problem is easily and inexpensively repaired. Soldered to the board is an inrush current limiter, part no. SL32 2R025 (looks like a black disc, about the size of a quarter). This component gets very hot in operation and degrades over time. Sometimes it chars or cracks, although it may look perfectly fine. Remove the board from the box, unsolder the two leads to the current limiter, solder a new current limiter in place. Digikey sells the current limiter for a few dollars, takes about 15 minutes to replace it and reinstall the board. Better than buying a new board!