Aquarite display - generating light does not come on

[Bmetzger]

I’m having a problem with my swg generating chlorine. The old t-15 cell went bad last season and I have replaced it with a new t-15. Shortly after that, the pool was green again and I found that the main PCB in the aquarite was also failing (shutting off after around 30 seconds). I have since replace the main PCB, and now the control display appears to be back to normal with the exception of the generating light never illuminates. I have followed this troubleshooting guide (part 4 on page 30) http://haywarddocs.info/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/AquaRite-Troubbleshooting-Guide.pdf and I’m not totally sure what to make of the readings. Below are the readings from the aquarite and the voltage readings I took while checking through the troubleshooting:

Aquarite SWG (with t-15 cell):
1. 3000
2. 75
3. 26.0 / 31.4 (when switching polarity)
4. 5.60 / 0.00 (when switching polarity)
5. 48P
6. -2900 / -0 (when switching polarity)
7. AL-0
8. R1.59
9. T-15

Voltage readings:
1. 120 AC at input power
2. 20.7 DC rectifier output
3. 4.99 DC between display board pins 2 and 4
4. 23.1 AC transformer output
5. 118.5 AC transformer input (blue and white posts)
6. 118.5 AC transformer input (purple and grey posts)
7. Fuse has continuity
8. 20.8 AC rectifier input (I think this is supposed to be 12 AC)

I’m wondering if I need to replace additional components of the SWG control box, but if that’s the case, I’m not sure which one(s) need replacing still. Any help or suggestions on next steps for testing are appreciated.

 

[JamesW]

Move the switch to off for a minute and turn the percentage to 100. Then, move the switch to auto and recheck the readings. The salinity will take a few seconds to stabilize.

Then, do that one more time.

 

[Bmetzger]

Thanks for your reply. I have done that now. There doesn’t seem to be much change:

Both readings:
1. 3000
2. 76
3. 26.0
4. 5.71 (5.66 for 2nd reading)
5. 100P
6. -2900
7. AL-0
8. R1.59
9. T-15

 

[JamesW]

It's working correctly. If the Generating light is not coming on, it's just a bad LED not lighting up.

As long as the amps and instant salinity are correct, it's working correctly and generating chlorine.

I would ignore it.

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity.

Any number over 75% is ok, but ideally, the number should be over 90%.

 

[Bmetzger]

Thanks very much for your help! That’s a relief.