Aquarite 900

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Hi, I just got the unit and am just trying to understand how to use it. I think the guy who installed it calling themselves authorized sellers have no clue what they did. Because a simple error of putting 4200+ Salt just signals to me they are either clueless or careless.

I have the 940 extended life cell. Could you walk me through or point me to a video tutorial of how to properly record diagnostics. I noticed the article linked above provides some insight on this, however, I am more visual learner.

Thank you
 

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
 
You rock! Thanks so much.

One last thing I cant wrap my mind around is the CYA chart for SWG. As I always understood the higher CYA the more FC to get the same impact from chlorine. Why is it that we raise CYA to 70 and hold a lower FC with SWG. Wouldn't a higher CYA need a much higher FC?

I used to have liquid chlorine and was using 50 CYA to a target FC of 8 and ensure it doesn't drop below 4 by end of day. I top it up back to 8 each night. However, with the SWG the CYA chart says to keep it at 70 with FC target of 5? And, ensure it doesn't drop below 3. Would that mean I have to top up with LC if by end of day I drop below 5?

Also, is it safe to hold shock level while SWG is on? If not, what is the safest FC level to have with SWG on?

Thank you
 
g3lo said:
Wouldn't a higher CYA need a much higher FC?
Click to expand...

Pool Water Chemistry

This thread presents my findings so far on pool water chemistry including the following: More Accurate Calcite Saturation Index (CSI) to replace Langelier Saturation Index (LSI) Calculation of ppm HOCl (disinfecting chlorine) at various levels of Total Free Chlorine (FC) and Cyanuric Acid (CYA)...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
From experience, it has been shown that a higher CYA works with a SWCG such that a lower ratio of FC vs CYA can be used. This is felt to be because the chlorine is added in small amounts over a longer period, whereas when manually adding liquid chlorine, you are adding all the chlorine in a very short time period.

I find my FC usage goes way up (in summer) when my CYA drops below 70. At 70 and above the FC loss is about 4 ppm per day. At a lower CYA, it is well above 5 ppm FC loss per day.

g3lo said:
Also, is it safe to hold shock level while SWG is on? If not, what is the safest FC level to have with SWG on?
Click to expand...
We do not recommend using a SWCG during a SLAM Process, but mechanically it is not harmful.
 
Hi here are the diagnostics:

t-15
74 f
4500
7.22
24.3
-4600
60p
r.159
AL-0

I am not 100% what some of the numbers mean perhaps voltage / cell current?

Thanks!

Why is it that you do not recommend using SWG during SLAM process? What is the logic?

Also, the unit says they recommend CYA about 20-30 for Aquarite. Is it still recommended to bring it up to 70 CYA for Aquarite? If Chlorine Holds at 20-30 should I still bring it up?

Also, above it was mentioned that salt ppm goes down when you drain and fill the pool (dilute it), however, does it also go down when you put acid? Why is that?
 
Also, is it true that PH will have to be maintained by dropping acid every week if not more frequently and SWG are prone to climbing PH in pools? What is your experience? And, what is your process? Do you have a CO2 PH system, or do you just put acid weekly?
 
g3lo said:
Why is it that you do not recommend using SWG during SLAM process? What is the logic?
Click to expand...
A SLAM needs large amounts of FC added. A SWCG is designed to maintain a FC level. You can use it, but it does not do much for the SLAM process.
g3lo said:
Also, the unit says they recommend CYA about 20-30 for Aquarite. Is it still recommended to bring it up to 70 CYA for Aquarite? If Chlorine Holds at 20-30 should I still bring it up?
Click to expand...
TFPC recommends a CYA of 60-80 for SWCG. You can use less. See if the FC holds.
g3lo said:
Also, above it was mentioned that salt ppm goes down when you drain and fill the pool (dilute it), however, does it also go down when you put acid? Why is that?
Click to expand...
Salt is added when you add muriatic acid.
g3lo said:
Also, is it true that PH will have to be maintained by dropping acid every week if not more frequently and SWG are prone to climbing PH in pools? What is your experience? And, what is your process? Do you have a CO2 PH system, or do you just put acid weekly?
Click to expand...
If your ph rises due to fill water or aeration, you need to add acid to keep it in the 7's. The SWCG is a very minor influence on pH rise due to aeration. I add acid typically twice a week. I also add alot of fill water every day due to evaporation and my fill water has a TA of 130.
 

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The amps are at 7.22.

If the amps get to 8.0, the high salt warning light will come on and the unit will shut down.

As the water temperature rises, the amperage will also rise.

So, you should begin to work on getting the salinity down to avoid problems.
 
The instant salinity is temperature compensated; so the salinity should be accurate as the temperature changes.

Warmer water increases the amperage at the same salinity.

If you had a heater and turned it on, you would see an increase in the amperage as the water temperature increased.

Poolgate has a heater, they can verify this if they want.

PoolGate has an AquaPure, which is also temperature compensated. So, the salinity reading should stay the same.

Their amperage would increase at the same salinity with warmer water, but they don't get a readout from their system.

To see the amperage, they need to measure it directly from the wires.

full
 
Last edited:
Got it! For clarification, I am not here to step on somebody's toes. But just thought I'd share my own observations and experiences hoping to at least contribute to the community. I also have a NG heater before the cell and coupled that with a switch to manually bypass the cell's built-in thermistor via potentiometer or fixed res. My swcg is chlorinating all year round while ignoring the actual water temperature. However, the actual water temp passing through the cell might have an impact and throw me off the charts. Again, my personal observations are based on my own experiences with various AQR sw built in an effort to figure out the formula used to calculate the instantaneous salinity on an AQR system. Anyone here able to breakdown the AQR sw and fw?
 
mas985 said:
I have collected dozens of readings from my SWG over the years (AquaLogic with a T-15) and have fit the measurements to an analytical expression related to the conductivity of a water/salt solution:

Salt PPM = Amps/Volts * (25888 - 163.43 * Tf)

I have had three cells over the years and they all produce salt level readings that fit this expression to within the accuracy of the readout display (<100 ppm) so fairly accurate. Also, all T-15 cells should follow this same equation regardless of the controller used since the applied target voltage is the same.
Click to expand...

C0d3Sp4c3 said:
in an effort to figure out the formula used to calculate the instantaneous salinity on an AQR system.
Click to expand...

Hayward Aquarite Pro T-Cell15 Reading Low Salt

What does Hayward say? Did you get the new cell from Hayward?
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Example.
~27.2v
~5.87a
77degrees

5.87 X (25888 – (163.43 X 77)) ÷ 27.2 = 2871 ppm.
 
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@OP, pardon the hijack!
Thanks James, much appreciated. I have a wide collections of data and diagnostic videos gathered from years of AQR ownership. I like Math but I am terrible with numbers!
Going by the above formula, I am off by at least 300ppm. Close enough and can't complain! I have yet to find a set of numbers from a hacked thermistor reading vs actual and compare.
69°F
25.2V
7.22A
-4500
***************
78°F
25.2V
7.22A
-4000
 
Thanks for the information. However, should at such a high salinity of 4500 the unit report high salt? Or, is it just depends on water temperature, amperage as well as described above?

Also, this unit is rated to produce 1.47 lbs of chlorine per day. Does that translate to 100% 24 hour run time? If so, would that the result in 1.47L of liquid chlorine? If so, that should only provide me with 1 FC per day. Why is it then a 12 hour run time at 70% gave me 5 FC? I’m confused.
 
The high salt warning light is triggered by the amperage.

At 8 amps, the high salt warning light goes on regardless of the actual salinity.

The output rating is in units of chlorine gas.

24 hours at 100% produces 1.47 lbs of chlorine gas.
 

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