Aqualink RS configuration with a gas heater.

[EricAiken]

I'm new to the Aqualink RS system. Came as part of my house. I'm hooking up my raypak (older model) heater. Everything works fine... Sort of.
The heater is 110 volt -> 24 v transformer. So a 24v electronic ignition system. Should work well with the Aqualink. Reviewing Jandy's manual it looks pretty straight forward.
There is a heater pin pair for from the main panel to the heater board. There apparently is a dip swtich (#8) to turn on. There is discussion about a firemans switch too. Not sure where that fits into the config. Here's my concern. I can't seem to get 24v out of the main panel. I think this all comes down to paragraph 3.5. Hoping someone has experience with these systems. Not sure if this is a programming issue or a wiring/config issue. I have verified by hooking up the 110->24v transformer, that the heater will work, when it gets water flowing. Obviously I'd love to have it straight 24v and automated that it only comes on with the pump is running.

Here's a link to the manual page, which looks straight forward. Connecting Heater To Low Voltage Terminal; Connecting Equipment To Pcb; Setting Dip Switches; Installing Power Center Faceplate - Jandy AquaLink RS6 Installation Manual [Page 10] | ManualsLib


Thanks in advance

Eric

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

What model older Raypak heater are you connecting? Is it a gas heater or a heat pump?

The Aqualink 2 wire connection does not provide any voltage. It is just a SPST relay that closes the circuit for the heater to operate.

You connect the "fireman's switch" terminals on the heater to the Aqualink heater connection. It is a 2 wire connection, All voltage on that wire comes from the heater.

Heater Control with Automation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[EricAiken]

Welcome to TFP.

What model older Raypak heater are you connecting? Is it a gas heater or a heat pump?

The Aqualink 2 wire connection does not provide any voltage. It is just a SPST relay that closes the circuit for the heater to operate.

You connect the "fireman's switch" terminals on the heater to the Aqualink heater connection. It is a 2 wire connection, All voltage on that wire comes from the heater.

Heater Control with Automation - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

Excellent thanks for referring documentation. Nice explanation of what Jandy was trying to say. The key/crux is the fireman's switch. A little disappointing the aqua-link doesn't provide the 24v, that would be a much cleaner solution and it clearly has the HW configuration to do it. HVAC is always "old school". I'm also disappointed I need the 110v, since the heater really doesn't need it. 24v to control the valve and switches is all that's really needed. It's just another layer of wiring, conduit, breakers, etc.).

I've read a few other posts about how to wire the fireman's switch. Some put it in-line on the pressure switch, others use it inline on the main power/toggle switch. Oh, for the record this is a natural gas, Raypak versa 055b old model.

I understand the idea of cool down and that's a great implementation. I don't find any details on how the aqualink RS actually implements it. Originally I had this heater hooked up to my spa with a mechanical timer so ensuring the pump had to be on before the heater was a simple daisy chain of the 110v. In this case I need to "know" the aqualink will not turn on the heater without the pump, so the pressure switch (fireman's) implmentation seems the "safest" way. No pressure - No heat. (but that may be counter to the cool down model). Thats the engineer in me, not the HVAC professional. So I should ask, how are the HVAC folks thinking this issue out?

Thanks again for your expertise and time.

Eric

 

[ajw22]

Your manual is here --> https://www.royalswimmingpools.com/raypakversamanual.pdf

If you have the IID version you need to wire it to 120V AC or 240V AC. Note that it is factory wired for 240V AC so confirm the way your unit is setup.

Since it is a spa heater it does not have a fireman's switch connection point that modern pool heaters have. You can wire in the control line anywhere along the safety switch chain in the lower left of the wiring diagram.

Heater cool down is standard on the Aqualink unless you disable it with Dip Switch #4.