Aqua rite t-15 end of life?

Farmerstan91

Well-known member
Jun 28, 2019
68
Sw missouri
Think my t-15 swg finally gave up on me. All water balance is good but only built about .5ppm overnight on superchlorinate. Cell is clean inside. Selling my house with this pool in the next 4-6 weeks so really dont want to drop 500 on another new cell if i can avoid it. Anything i should try or 3rd party cells that are cheaper?
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.


Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
 
For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.


Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.
Alot to get through so hope i dont miss a number but this is way more helpful than hayward was.box is a goldline aquarite T-cell 15 for 40k pools(im 15-16k) set correctly in box. kit salt reading 2800 screen reading 3100. Box *3a1105-1173368* cell *3e1105-2360308*
Readings-off 3200,66,33.2,0.00,51p,-0,al-0,r1.58
On 3200,66,25.7,5.11,51p,-3100,al-0,r1.58
Off then on 3200,66,26.2,5.35,51p,-3100,,al-0,r1.58

not sure how to reverse polarity on it and quick search didnt pick anything up
 
If the cell type is set to T15, it looks like it's working correctly.

The cell and box are 10 years old, so you would expect a reduced output from the cell, but it seems fine.

Divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to get the performance percentage.

3,100/2,800 = 110%, which is high for a 10 year old cell.

Also, the instant salinity on both polarities is within 5% of each other, so that is also good.
 
Yah know.. I think this is a cost I would not incur before selling the house. I would tell the new owners the SWG works but probably will need to replaced at the end of the season. And then give them this website, since we always need new members.

But its still good to find out the status of the cell. ;)
 

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Cheaper than a cell. Just sayin'.

 
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