Aqua rite not generating salt PCB issue?

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rolsim3

rolsim3

Member
Apr 14, 2020
14
Florida
New to pool tech. And really would appreciate some insight. I have an aqua rite that will not generate chlorine. The call has been tested as functioning. Pool today tested 3500 ppm salt reading. On my display, the stats read 0, 72, 31.4, 0.00, 56p, -0, al-0. The system powers up as normal and then the power light, check salt and inpect call come up. I inherited the house and dont know the last time this unit functioned. New display, new cell and new no flow sensor. Sl32 thermoster. Not sure if I need a new board or just give up.
Thanks20200418_143850.jpg
 
Move the switch to off and then back to auto and recheck the readings. When you check the instant salinity, move the switch from auto to superchlorinate and back to auto.
 

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On your readings you may be missing one or two readings...after AL-0 should be the board revision number r1.xx . If r1.50 or above there will also be T-cell setting: hopefully t-15. If r1.40 or below there will not be a t-cell setting.

With your pump running, the switch in the Auto position and the display set at 0, try moving the switch to OFF -> AUTO. Then press the black diagnostic button five times. Wait about 10 seconds and you should hear an audible "click" and the display will say -0 for a couple of seconds before cycling to hopefully something around -2700 to -3500 . If it does that immediately move the switch from Auto->SuperChlorinate->Auto to lock in that instant salt figure to become your average salt reading. Be quick because you only get about 10-15 to lock in the number before it defaults back to the previous locked in number and you will have repeat everything.

If you never hear a click or if you do hear a click and the numbers never cycle, then you will likely have to replace the thermistor/current limiter.
 
rolsim3 said:
New to pool tech. And really would appreciate some insight. I have an aqua rite that will not generate chlorine. The call has been tested as functioning. Pool today tested 3500 ppm salt reading. On my display, the stats read 0, 72, 31.4, 0.00, 56p, -0, al-0. The system powers up as normal and then the power light, check salt and inpect call come up. I inherited the house and dont know the last time this unit functioned. New display, new cell and new no flow sensor. Sl32 thermoster. Not sure if I need a new board or just give up.
Thanks
Click to expand...
You have sw r1.4, the symptoms correlate to a missing dc supply to the cell. Do you hear the relay "click" shortly after moving the switch from off to auto?
If it does, measure the dc voltage between pins 1 and 2 as shown in the link from post #2 "Troubleshooting the Main Board"
If the current is missing, inspect the Thermistor and K1 or K2 solder and the connector.
You can replace the Varistor later should you decide to keep the PCB.
 
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Yes the varistor is blown but the pcb should remain functional with or without it. Just trying to guide the OP to the main issue he's having with. thanks!
 
I would have to agree that unless that varistor shorted and took out a fuse somewhere that the unit should fully power up without it.

I fear that the surge that took the MOV (Metal Oxide Varistor) could have taken something else upstream out. But at least you know it's the DC power supply section so I would still say it's repairable. Do you know how to diagnose component problems on low voltage electronics?

If not, I would cut out the damaged MOV and see if that helps. If not, consider a new board, unfortunately.

Edit:
It appears the thermistors control DC current. That is worth looking into as well. You might want to order all three parts and do what we call a "shotgun" repair and see if then works. Good luck
 
The voltage is good, so the thermistor is probably good.

Check the back of the circuit board and touch up any bad solder joints.

If you move the switch to Off and then back to Auto, what happens with the voltage and current before the unit shuts off?
 

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